Step 7: Tillering
So put the bow on the stick and start pulling it back, you want a smooth even curve, you can see my outer limbs are too stiff, so I'll scrape the belly (string) side to thin them. Keep working until you have a tiller you're happy with.
If at ANYTIME you hear cracking, STOP, get a new piece of wood and go back to step one.
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This is done usually when you want the wood to retain the bend, as in a rocking chair or shipbuilding.
This would rob your bow of the springy tension you want.
arm span-- before making the bow, know your arm span. this is usually your height.
arm span=54-56inches, bow length=4 ft. 6 in., arrow length of 22-23in.
arm span=57-59in, bow length=4ft. 9in. arrow length 23-24in.
arm span=60-62in, bow length=5ft, arrow length 24-25in.
arm span=63-65in, bow length=5ft. 3in, arrow length25-36in.
arm span=66-68 in, bow length=5ft. 6in. arrow length 26-27in.
arm span=69-71in, bow length=5 ft. 10 in. arrow length 28in.
i dont have more specs than that, but those are exact for my tayloring longbows, but your flat bow here can be shorter because the flat shape can take more strain. the arrow should be drawn back to your cheek, and these specs will feel comfortable.
enjoy!
You want to spread the compression force as equally over the width of the limb as possible, since the bow will be more likely to break if the force is concentrated in one spot.
Another consideration is that while tillering you shouldn't try to pull with a force greater than the end weight you're aiming for and you should't try to force a complete pull while the bow isn't completely tillered, since you're putting extra load on the relatively more bendy parts and the whole point of tillering is to distribute the forces as well as possible over the length and width of the legs.