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Red Oak Pyramid Bow

Step 9Finish

Finish
After finish sanding I coated the whole thing with a wax finish I use on my firearms called variously "gunny paste" "one third finish" etc. a mix of BLO, beeswax and turpentine. Finally, you can wrap the handle with hemp twine, but I like the bare wood..

Very pleased with the result.
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43 comments
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Dec 12, 2011. 12:24 AMPaulReynolds says:
I added resin coat to one of my bows. Gave it a nice waterproof coat and contributed to its strenght.
Mar 27, 2010. 6:34 AMtheiceman says:
great job with the bow... any thoughts on gluing several (maybe 3) layers of some type of cloth (silk, duck cloth) to the back of the bow to strengthen it and ward off splintering/cracking... that having been said, I personally like the finished look of the raw wood...  thanks for a great inst...
Oct 1, 2011. 6:01 PMsconner1 says:
I agree.
The grain is beautiful in the pic.
Especially with the wrapping. It's such natural look.
Apr 1, 2010. 8:51 AMAlpvax says:
i am only 16 and know full well that my bows arent anywhere near as good. i make them from a straight hazel branch and as for backing... just leave the under layer of bark on, none of my bows have ever splintered, although after time they weaken (not made well enough)
Dec 25, 2010. 7:35 PMkoga95 says:
i was 14 when i used elder wood. made 2, first one i used as wetwood. second i put in shed for like 2 weeks(ish) and it (2nd) worked amazing, broke window with it. =P
May 31, 2010. 8:54 AMflashu says:
my grandpa and I used to make hazel wood bows when i was a kid, found though that the branches are best for arrows, as they tend to loose elasticity after a while. Got a compound at the moment, but definitely considering making this. Oak and birch are the best option for me at the moment.
Jun 4, 2010. 4:26 AMAlpvax says:
yes, they lose elasticity, but our house is bordered by hazel trees, so when the bows weaken, just make a new one. find a long straight section, about an inch diameter, use that as the bow, remove the top, and you can make yourself some straight arrows. although i occasionally buy dowel to make arrows.
Sep 14, 2010. 1:03 PMshortw says:
When I was a kid we used to make bows from hazel. We would cut the hazel in winter for use in the summer, we dry them for a long time. we found out the longer you dry them the longer they would last and do not peel the bark. I thought I would make one for my boy, but I am thinking of laminating it to prevent it to lose the elasticity and that should help.
Dec 17, 2010. 10:16 AMAlpvax says:
I normally don't bother with the 6-month seasoning, just cut down and carve away part of the belly to make for a nice curve. Leaving the bark on the back of the bow helps prevent it splitting and snapping as easily.
Sep 22, 2010. 7:58 AMboredinclass94 says:
thinking about making this, anyone know what would be the best wood for this project?
Sep 19, 2011. 1:29 AMafridave says:
yew.....its expensive and rare so dont bother.......orange osage,lemonwood are easyily available in the USA i believe...........basically any dense hardwoods are capable of making reasonable bows..........ive read oak with a hickory strip glued on the back works well.............
Nov 30, 2010. 6:43 AMspooninbrian says:
The best wood for making bows is dead wood, Oak is the next best thing.
Jan 16, 2011. 9:59 AMMR.builderguy says:
where might I get deadwood? what is it anyway?
Jul 1, 2010. 4:28 PMKynan4th says:
i think i shall make a pyramid bow, ive got nothing better to do, but i reckon ill save up for some ash, itll be harder to work, but worth it if i succeed, but with the height thing, should i do longbow measurements? height of the archer plus a hand? because 6' 4" of ash, plus the handle bit, is gunna cost alot
Aug 15, 2011. 9:12 AMblaflair says:
i bought a rough cut board of ash with nice straight grain and free of knots for i think 8 bux. then they planed it for me. i am in the process of making the handle. it seems like its gonna be sweet though. i went with ash rather than oak. it seems like more ppl recomend it
Sep 19, 2011. 1:26 AMafridave says:
i believe oak backed with a hickory strip is very good....i live in south africa and cannot find a piece of hickory for love or money.........
Jul 2, 2010. 8:21 AMKynan4th says:
cheerz :)
Sep 19, 2011. 1:19 AMafridave says:
yesterday i broke my third bow on the tiller.........first one was oak which broke at 38 pounds at 28 inches....i was aiming for 40 pounds...........second one was imboia which i broke on purpose ...it was well over 50 pounds and about 29 inches when it broke
last one was iroko which i was very carefull with ...i was aiming at 35 pounds at 28 inches ........it broke at about 33 pounds at 28 inches.......

so im rethinking all of this.......ive been attempting the longbow concept that bends through the handle but yesterday i glued a riser on a piece of iroko and will attempt again with this new method.......i build as long as my wood will allow........the oak was 6 ft long..........the iroko are both 70 inches as i get two equal staves out of one piece of wood.......i think one of my mistakes is that im starting with my rough shape to thin and not leaving enough timber to reach my desired draw weights.......not sure what im learning but will get it right eventually.................i believe breaking bow may in the long run be more educational than it seems...... ...."a fully drawn bow is a 7/8 ths broken bow"
Nov 2, 2010. 7:30 PMjr.tuckluck13 says:
great tutorial. i would go with dremeling out notches at either end of the bow for the string rather than gluing on pieces of wood. more accurate to originals. otherwise great
Aug 10, 2010. 2:14 PMVick Jr says:
About what wood to use: here's a list of potential bow-wood species.

Yew is the traditional wood, but i've read that Orange Osage works well too, and is easier to find. I know that American ash and lemon wood also work. Any kind of hard wood is good (in terms of species and physical properties). It should be as untreated and dry as possible. See this great page on making a longbow for more info. You can also use a high-compression wood and make a cable-backed bow (literally glue a high-tension reinforcement to the back)

Quick question: what did you use for string?

Great 'ible by the way. I shall begin work on my bow with the next trip to the hardware store!
Mar 24, 2010. 5:48 PMP4nz3r says:
Solid 'ible!
I'm actually working on a very similar bow out of a small oak tree I cut down for it.  is it worth putting in any more work if the wood cracked while drying, or should I just scrap the project and use your method instead?
Jul 1, 2010. 4:25 PMKynan4th says:
oak trees take an age to grow, so if i were you id try my hardest not to waste it, though i would have thought oak isnt flexible enough for a bow
Jul 20, 2010. 4:54 PM15zhangfra says:
humans take quite a long time to grow as well =D, and the bow will probably break anyways. i would recommend putting a backing of linen or canvas (another trip to home depot or lowes, but online stores have special backings) on it.
Mar 24, 2010. 6:51 PMFzdowg says:
not sure, but it depends on where the crack is and the amount of tree you have to work with
Aug 31, 2010. 7:59 AMbadideasrus says:
typically the answer is run like the wind. a crack on the outside would probably mean cracks on the inside. and a bow can exsplode if you have bad wood. the cracks are caused by the wood drying too fast. if you ever try again (should you feel like it) coat both ends of the log in latex based paint. should even out the drying period. takes at least a year though.... or you could buy pre dried wood.
Jul 6, 2010. 12:37 PMlowman.usmc.2844 says:
First off this is an awesome bow. Yours looks a lot better than mine. I was just wondering what size string did you get for yours?
May 26, 2010. 12:52 AMNattwood says:
hey, ive started carving up the wood now that its seasoned and am just wondering if a handle like http://www.dryadbows.com/instock/images/WBBinstk06.jpg because i much prefer the arrow pass being carved in the wood and the pistol grip looks much more comfortable for shooting with, cheers.
Mar 30, 2010. 5:46 PMNattwood says:
Hey, great instructable you got here, just wondering if a wood like red gum would work well? because the only kind of oak in abbundance at my hardware stores is tassy shee oak and that stuff, although heavier then pine, doesn't seem all that strong, however red gum is big and strong and native to my area so not unfairly priced, so quite easily accessible? One last thing though, im only 17 this year so i wouldn't be doing this, but how would an ebony bow go?
May 25, 2010. 9:28 PMX3R0117 says:
You've probably heard of ebony bows, but the truth is that the ebony is usually treated in some way so that it becomes stronger or more elastic. It's good for decorations, but otherwise, unless you lot's of money to spend, i wouldn't recommend trying to make a working one.
Apr 8, 2010. 12:15 PMSponzyparadox says:
An ebony bow is VERY expensive to make and is very brittle your best bet is to take ash wood and laminate over it. Ash is however a very good wood for bows it is highly elastic almost as much as yew and very workable. It is also available at good lumber yards
Apr 1, 2010. 8:18 PMstoobers says:
I do wood turning with gum.  Mostly blue gum (E. globulus, in California).  It has a wild and crazy grain, but reminds me a lot of oak.  So maybe the red gum world work.  Maybe you could laminate several layers with some gorilla glue?

As far as ebony, it is super heavy and always seems brittle.  That is just my opinion.  Maybe the ebony you can get can flex more.
Apr 1, 2010. 7:04 PMLight_Lab says:
Hi Nattwood, I am in Oz too. I tried lots of different woods to make bows when I was your age. I didn't try red gum specifically but I never found a eucalypt that didn't break. The best wood I found was lemon wood (see below).

Apr 2, 2010. 5:01 AMNattwood says:
i got some big ironbark that we're pullin down, and its eucalypt so it should be good rite? and if so whats the best part of the tree, cause otherwise its all firewood, so i wanted to know which would be best part of tree to keep a 3m chunk of.
Mar 31, 2010. 10:42 PMNattwood says:
cool, the ebony was just a wondering, but the gum is good cause of the construction goin on around they're pullin down a bunch of em, big ones too, been around since ages ago.
May 14, 2010. 5:11 PMmistercaboose says:
 im about to start with a wood im quite sure is red oak (or at least similar). i will probably make it more proportionate to my height (5'2)
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Author:Tool Using Animal
I'm a graduate of the University of Central Florida with a degree in Mechanical Engineering, I am currently working on my Master's. Otherwise, I enjoy building things, designing the things I'm going ...
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