This instructable will teach you how to make a end-grain redwood coffee table with steel legs. The steps provided will be applicable for re-creating the above table, but can also serve as a template to let you customize and make your own design.

Step 1: Buying & Cutting the Wood

At my local hardware store they sell lots of wood beams. These beams come in many different sizes and wood-types. When selecting a wood to purchase - I took a look at the color of the wood as well as how the end-grains looked. I found a redwood that I thought was particular beautiful and came in beams that were sized: 1"1/2 x 5"1/2 x 108". I bought several beams and cut them into 3 inch blocks. Each brick or "block" was 3" x 1"1/2 x 5"1/2. I cut about 250 of these from the beams I purchased.

<p>Really beautiful setup of the table. Nice Metal tailored with a Cool Look. Have a Look regarding Kamagra http://www.dragonapotheke.com/</p>
<p>Looks beautiful, I have been looking up different coffee tables and this one is nice</p>
<p>Great work. Thank you. </p><p>What kind of glue did you use?</p>
<p>Thanks! :) Titebond III - ultimate wood glue.</p>
<p>I must be nice soo.. You don't name your wood glue, what kind is black/purple? How did you decide it should be 3.5&quot; thick? Why did you decide to make the legs of steel cubes in yellow? So many design decisions that ought to have some depth of reasoning.. Lovely surface!</p>
<p>The wood glue I used was Titebond III - ultimate wood glue (although any wood glue should do). I chose 3.5&quot; thick because I thought it would compliment the rest of the furniture I had in my house. I didn't want it to be too thin as it wouldn't have as strong of a presence. Regarding the color of the legs - I knew I wanted a hot saturated color. Was contemplating over red, orange and yellow and when I saw this yellow powder coat color - I had to have it!</p>
<p>Super cool, is the surface smooth after waxing? I was thinking this might make an awesome kitchen island top but maybe I'll need to use some sort of poly on it to protect it more than the wax. Are the pieces really flush at the ends? I basically have the same collection of wood clamps you do maybe 10-12 in total plus 2-3 long wooden handled clams that have both a slide and a screw action to make them tighter so I'll have to mirror your patience. I'm thinking this will take a couple weeks at least. </p>
<p>Yep! It's smooth after waxing. I used a chopsaw on the ends to ensure they're smooth and I did a lot of sanding on the tables surface. Definitely time consuming though.</p>
<p>Great idea... and if you ever need a dining table all you have to do is build taller leg boxes. I too love the color and respect your levels of patience. A smaller, lighter cutting board is in my future. Good Job.</p>
<p>Masterfully done! I love it.</p>
<p>I really like your table's top, looks really good. Gave me an idea for making a cutting board as well</p>
<p>Beautiful top!</p>
<p>I am very impressed with the patience you demonstrated throughout this process, but particularly in the glue-up and staining portions. Nice work, and well-deserving of a feature. </p>
<p>Very nice! I bet that end grain soaked up the oil like a sponge.</p>
<p>Thanks! Yes - the wood really did soak up the oil like a sponge. Applied half the tin of Tung oil on it.</p>
<p>Nice idea</p>
<p>I just love the color!</p>

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