Step 3: Step 2: Sanding

Step 2:
-Begin sanding down the surface of the table as well as the sides.  To begin, use a corse grit sandpaper, about 60 or 80 grit to strip the old finish/stain/paint off of the table.  It is much easier to use an electric sander, which I did not have.  This process, done by hand, takes about 6 hours to get a nice, smooth finish.  After the table is rough and the majority of it shows bare wood, use a higher grit sandpaper.  Move to about 120 or 220 and re-sand the table again.  This ensures every crack and blemish on the table is smoothed out ready for finish.  After the sanding is done with the 220 grit, clean off the excess sawdust.
-I first blew the dust off, vacuumed the table, and wiped it down with a dampened paper towel with mineral spirits.  This works well, and you MUST ensure that the table is completely clear of any and all dust particles.  Tack cloths work well also.
<p>I did a similar idea on a new, boring glass top table, with vintage soda bottles and epoxy dots, do I would not ruin the design of the caps with scratches. But yours looks definitely more &quot;finished&quot; than mine! And it is so apropos for an antique table what you did. Beautiful!</p>
Table looks nice. I have been wanting to do this with beer caps to make some outdoor tables and have a variety of different craft beer caps I enjoy all lined up in rows. I just wasn't sure of what epoxy coating but your instructable helped me know what to ask/shop for!
<p>modsquad, if you look at my ideas, I did something similar, with vintage soda bottle caps. So go for it.</p>
I have this exact idea, except with the primer side of an expended pistol casing or rifle casing just cut down to a uniform length. Thanks for the post it gave me a lot of ideas on what to do for my project when i get to it. quick question tough, did you fill the table to the top lip or just enough to cover the pennies and a little over to smooth it? it looks like you just put it a little over the pennies but i cant tell for sure.
Thanks for the comment. That sounds like a great idea using the primers of various casings. As far as the epoxy goes, I only used enough to cover the top of the pennies. You could fill it up to the lip of the table, but that seemed excessive to me. It is pretty strong stuff and you will have no problems simply filling it up to just cover the primers. Hopefully you can post a finished product someday - that would be neat to see.
hopefully i can get it made soon, i just need to collect the brass and cut it down them pick/make the table. i have to wait till i get back to the states though to begin on it. 5 more months <br>
Is it called bar top epoxy all over the world? i would like to do this only the epoxy i know is not liquid...it's like a paste and is used to glue glass, metal and so on.
I'm not sure what other countries would call it. I did use a liquid type epoxy which I had two mix two separate components; a resin, and a hardener. Here is he website to the epoxy I used: <br> <br>http://glazecoat.com/GlazeCoat.htm <br> <br>Thank you for the comment and good luck!
Was it really necessary to glue all the coins down first? They'd be well and truly stuck down with the epoxy.
This eliminates the chance of them getting moved when pouring on the epoxy, It's a pretty viscous liquid and can move them around quite a bit.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, and also without gluing the pennies down, they may have a tendency to float to the top of the epoxy before it hardens completely. Thank you reedz.

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