Step 4: Step 3: Staining

Step 3:
-Now that your table is perfectly smooth and ready to stain, gather your favorite wood stain and a nice brush.  Believe me, you get your moneys worth for a good brush.  Like I said, Purdy makes real nice, natural bristle brushes for about $10-$20 a piece.  By the way, you can find all of these supplies at your local hardware store, (Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, Harbor Freight, etc.)
-Go to a well-ventilated area and follow the instructions on the can of stain.  Apply thin, even coats, taking your time.  Be sure to wait for each coat to fully dry before you move onto the next.  This was frustrating for me because I had to wait a good 2 days to finish staining.  I wanted to hurry and get the table done, therefore I started to stain and sand before the original layers were finished drying and it ruined a lot of sand paper by “gumming up” on it.  It was a disaster, so I had to re-sand the entire thing from step 1 the next day, putting my project behind even more.  SO, ALWAYS WAIT UNTIL THE STAIN FULLY DRIES BEFORE MOVING ON!
-Stain at least 2-3 layers to get a nice, even coat.
<p>I did a similar idea on a new, boring glass top table, with vintage soda bottles and epoxy dots, do I would not ruin the design of the caps with scratches. But yours looks definitely more &quot;finished&quot; than mine! And it is so apropos for an antique table what you did. Beautiful!</p>
Table looks nice. I have been wanting to do this with beer caps to make some outdoor tables and have a variety of different craft beer caps I enjoy all lined up in rows. I just wasn't sure of what epoxy coating but your instructable helped me know what to ask/shop for!
<p>modsquad, if you look at my ideas, I did something similar, with vintage soda bottle caps. So go for it.</p>
I have this exact idea, except with the primer side of an expended pistol casing or rifle casing just cut down to a uniform length. Thanks for the post it gave me a lot of ideas on what to do for my project when i get to it. quick question tough, did you fill the table to the top lip or just enough to cover the pennies and a little over to smooth it? it looks like you just put it a little over the pennies but i cant tell for sure.
Thanks for the comment. That sounds like a great idea using the primers of various casings. As far as the epoxy goes, I only used enough to cover the top of the pennies. You could fill it up to the lip of the table, but that seemed excessive to me. It is pretty strong stuff and you will have no problems simply filling it up to just cover the primers. Hopefully you can post a finished product someday - that would be neat to see.
hopefully i can get it made soon, i just need to collect the brass and cut it down them pick/make the table. i have to wait till i get back to the states though to begin on it. 5 more months <br>
Is it called bar top epoxy all over the world? i would like to do this only the epoxy i know is not liquid...it's like a paste and is used to glue glass, metal and so on.
I'm not sure what other countries would call it. I did use a liquid type epoxy which I had two mix two separate components; a resin, and a hardener. Here is he website to the epoxy I used: <br> <br>http://glazecoat.com/GlazeCoat.htm <br> <br>Thank you for the comment and good luck!
Was it really necessary to glue all the coins down first? They'd be well and truly stuck down with the epoxy.
This eliminates the chance of them getting moved when pouring on the epoxy, It's a pretty viscous liquid and can move them around quite a bit.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, and also without gluing the pennies down, they may have a tendency to float to the top of the epoxy before it hardens completely. Thank you reedz.

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