If you are still interested in this version, read on!
I had a problem that I needed to solve:
Remotely and wirelessly trigger the video recording on my Canon 60D DSLR camera, non-line of sight, from further than an IR remote would allow.
This would eliminate a lot of dead footage when shooting solo or when you want to be in the shot with other people.
As anyone who has looked into this knows, there are NO commercially available systems (or even really any hacked together non-commercial systems that I could find) available for doing this. Still pictures, no problem, but Canon doesn't have a way to do that for video without an IR remote (which is about 10ft, line of sight range). I looked into what I had (both materials and skillset), and decided on building a solution. This should work on any Canon DSLR that shoots video (T2i, T3i, 60d, 7d, 5d Mk2) but I have only tested it on my camera.
My solution uses an atmega328 chip on proto board (basically just a scratch built Arduino), a commercially available RF photo trigger and an IR LED to trigger the camera to record.
The basics of the solution are this:
1: The commercial RF shutter trigger sends a signal to take a photo, which the Arduino reads (as a state change on the input pin).
2: The Arduino triggers the IR LED in a sequence which tells the camera (thru it's IR receiver) to take a video.
3: The control box beeps once to provide an audible alert that recording has fired off, and the power LED starts blinking
4: When the RF trigger button is pushed again to stop recording, the same sequence happens again, except the box beeps twice, and the power LED stops flashing and returns to solid.
Now I have a trigger which will allow me to start video recording from at least 150ft away (the RF trigger claims 300ft, but I have only tested it out to 150ft so far).
My apologies ahead of time, this is not really a step-by-step "How to", but more of an overview of how it was built. I am bad about taking pictures during building something, I usually think of it after I am done.
This could also be done with a custom-built RF solution, but for simplicity, time and cost effectiveness, I chose to do it with a readily available commercial solution. I also realize what I am doing here is a fairly simple thing for an Arduino to do, and there are probably much simpler, cheaper, more elegant ways to do this. This is how I knew to do it, and the tools I had available. If you come up with a different (better) way, please post a link to your Instructable in the comments.
Step 1: What you will need
You can build this with just a regular Arduino board, and a few off the shelf parts if you want. I didn't want to use my actual Arduino, for both space considerations, and the fact that I only have one. I had an ATmega328 chip from a prior project to build one from scratch, so I did.
If you are building one from scratch, here are the parts you need to build the Arduino and power supply:
1 10k ohm resistor (for Arduino reset)
1 220ohm resistor (for Power LED)
1 Battery block/connector - 9V
1 Battery, 9v
2 Ceramic Capacitor - 22pF
1 Crystal - 16Mhz
1 Electrolytic Capacitor 100uF/25v
1 Electrolytic Capacitor 10uF/10v
1 Pushbutton momentary switch (for Arduino reset)
1 Rectifier Diode - 1N4001
1 Power Switch - I used a nice RS one with a built-in LED - RS Part # 275-0009
1 Voltage Regulator - 5V - LM7805
1 ATmega328p microcontroller chip with Arduino Bootloader (Sparkfun sku: DEV-10524, or elsewhere online)
1 28-pin DIP Socket (DON'T solder your ATmega directly to the protoboard)
1 2.1mm center positive DC Jack, Panel Mount
1 Enclosure with breadboard - Datak - Protobox Kit # 12-206 from Vetco Electronics (www.vetco.net )
Once you have those parts (Or if you are just going to use an Arduino of some description), here are the remaining parts needed:
1 Piezo Speaker - RS Part #273-059
1 Stereo Jack 3.5mm - I used a Panel Mount version in my enclosure
1 Stereo Plug 3.5mm, Male - This is for making the IR emitter the way I did, more explanation later.
1 Stereo Jack 2.5mm - Panel Mount
1 Stereo 3.5mm Extension (6" or so will do, I use a longer one, because thats what I had, and it gives some versatility)
2 IR LED (Again due to the way I made my IR emitter)
1 47ohm resistor (for IR LED)
and finally, your commercial RF Shutter Trigger. I used an Alzo Wireless Radio Shutter Release (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KA19E0 ) - Make sure you get the one specifically with the 2.5mm jack for the Canon 60d, T3i, etc.
Tools/materials needed to complete this project:
- Soldering iron and solder (and other associated soldering stuff)
- Wire (22AWG, or there about)
- Glue gun and glue
- Heat shrink tubing (to clean up/insulate connections, if desired)
- Drill and appropriately sized bits for adding the jacks to your project box
- Phillips head screwdriver (for opening/closing the project box, and securing your protoboard inside)
- Small piece of neoprene or foam to pad battery compartment