Introduction: Remote Detonator

here is a guide on how to make your own remote detonator (using radio):

you will need, a brain, two hands, eyes and some stuff below

a soldering iron.

solder

wire snippers

wire strippers

and pliers.

Step 1: Parts (transmitter)

ok, here are the parts.

Transmitter:
Case: I used a case from Rapid, I can't remember what the code was, but it comes with buttons and the project fits perfectly into it. Or if you are using it as a detonator you might want to make a snazzy case with lots of switches and knobs to make you feels more powerful.

Electrical Components:
i am from england and i use other companies to all you americans. i dont know if Digikey stock them or Radioshack, or you can use the internet. (dont complain to me though, its your problem)

two resistors, 1M resistor (R1) and a 150R to 400R(R2) are the values (you can get them anywhere in the world) the letter then number in the brackets for all the components relate to the layout and schematic (if you cant find these on radioshack then well...)

two capacitors:
(c1) Ceramic disk. value; 100nF
(c2) Electrolytic. value; 100uF (you should be able to find these on radioshack as well)

I.C.s
(U1) HT6014 this it the encoder chip, i dont know if you can get it over in america, but it works well and it is very available in U.K.
(U2) AM-RT4-418 this is the radio module, again i dont know if you can get it in america, tough cookies if you cant.

LEDs
(D1) this is a 5mm led of any colour you want the resistor value to be between 150R and 400R beware that 150R will have the Brightest LED but any lower the LED will burn out.

Miscellaneous:
3V battery holder (two AAAs) you can get that in america
SW1 - SW4 these are the transmitter switches (you guessed it, it is four channel, which means that you can detonate four different things seperately. the rapid order code for these is 78-0622. see they are PCB pushes.

18 pin dil socket you can get these in america. this is to mount the chip in.

then finally (for the Transmitter at least!)
an eight pin dil switch, this is optional and is purely to encode the signal, you need the same code on both ends to be able to use this. (might come in useful so no one detonates the stuff when you are close!)

That concludes the Transmitter parts list...

Step 2: Parts ( the Reciever)

this list is longer than the reciever!! dont worry too much.

well to start with there are 15 resistors (tedious)

Ok,
So the case should be attractive, maybe with khaki camoflage on it (if you really want to) but try to make it streamlined or camoflage so that nobody will see it i did not originally make it for a detonator so i have not got a very good case.

R1 = 100k
R2-9 = 4.7K
R10 = 10K
R11-15 = 680R

CAPACITORS:

C1-2 = 100nF (CERAMIC)
C3 = 470uF (ELECTROLYTIC)

SEMICONDUCTORS:

U1 = AM-HRR1-418 = Radio reciever
U2 = HT6034 = Decoder
U3 = 78L05 = 12V - 5V REGULATOR
Q1,Q6-9 = TIP 121 OR 122 = AMPLIFIER
Q2-5 = BC184L = NPN TRANSISTOR

D1,3,5,7,9 = 1N4001 = DIODE
D2,4,6,8,10= LED (COLOUR OF YOUR CHOICE)

Miscellaneous
AN1 = 17 cm PIECE OF WIRE (MUST BE 17cm)
POWER SOCKET = 12V POWER SOCKET (OR CAN RUN OFF 9V BATTERY)
IC SOCKET = DIL18 (18 PIN CHIP SOCKET)

ok, so there are the parts. im sorry if you cant get them over in america but, well again it is not my problem.

the TIP121 is a darlington driver, it is optional, but is reccomended it you want to use it as a detonator, see the chip runs off 5v and the TIP121 will amplify the current and make the 12v part of the circuit drive the detonator.

The 5 leds are, recieving transmission, and then for the four channels that indicate whether it is switched on.

NOTE: you can switch on more than one channel at a time so you can have multiple combinations. if you then feed the signal into a chip (if you do that do not output the signal through the amplifier) and in doing that you can have up to 15 (not including 0000 in binary) differnent explosive devices that can be controlled.

ok there goes the part lists for it...

Step 3: Construction

start with the small parts first as it will make it easier. write top at the top of the board so you dont forget which way up it goes. put the dil socket in first as this will orientate you in you quest to insert components. make sure the notch on the dil socket faces top.

then you can start to put in all the components, remember small first. resistors can go any way around. LEDs cant long leg is the positive (+) and short is -. diode have to go aroung the correct way. the stripe is the cathode (negative) use the pictures below to find out where they go (remember if it is too small you can click the i symbol and it will show you the full size of the image). try and use a different colour for the signal recieve LED.

make sure the big capacitor (the round one) has the long lead on the + side. or the grey stripe on the other side.

now you can build the boards, make sure you look at the pictures below

Step 4: Test

i didnt actually use it as a detonator so i have not got any pictures of it working. but you can use Nichrome wire as it glows and melts when you pass current through it, so you can set off explosives.

it works with a range of about 90m, so you can get safely away.

i have included all the pictures at the bottom (with no captions on them)

you also might like to try and use this method of ignition here
at
https://www.instructables.com/id/Remotely-ignite-pyrotechnics---like-a-man/

remember to be safe with this.

Comments

author
TONYTONE88 made it! (author)2014-12-27

This is great pal. Gettin a bloody head ache trying to learn electronics. Do h a request though. I'm trying to make a hand held detonator and disposable receivers that I can use on AIRSOFT granades so I only need one channel and the receiver to be a simple as possible. Could you strip your design down for me or point me in the right direction? Thanks again.

author
UmarK made it! (author)2014-09-08

how if we use RTQ4-418 in place of RT4-418.

how to increase its range

author
ebolson made it! (author)2014-03-12

I think you put them where the leds are

author
soul1974 made it! (author)2013-05-16

Nice tutorial ,where do you connect the ignite wire

author
wh1zzyboy made it! (author)2012-06-19

Is it possible that you can give us a link for the schematics, indestructable seems to make them to small.

author
monsterman made it! (author)2012-05-25

where can you get the radio modules from?

author
joeyhof made it! (author)2011-01-03

what kinda power supply can i use

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412011-01-07

12V. Mine has max current of 500mA which is more than enough.

author
rbaluyut made it! (author)rbaluyut2011-11-28

i can't see the electrical output for the receiver witch where you can put the nicrome wire.

please show me i want to make one..

author
joeyhof made it! (author)2011-01-29

ok did you desinge this from your head or did you find how to build it on a website because im having such a hard time trying to build this thing?

author
Sev the Sniper made it! (author)2010-04-21

Hi, does anyone know where to buy the encoders and decoders from? I have checked rapid and various other shops but with no luck.

Thanks

author
joeyhof made it! (author)joeyhof2011-01-09

solarbotics.com for the encoder and decoder

author
joeyhof made it! (author)2011-01-07

were do you attatch the wires on the reciever to make it ignite? can i use a premade circuit board?

author
uxaxi made it! (author)2010-03-09

are there any transmiters that you can buy in america that will do the same thing as yours?

author
dd_dodd made it! (author)2010-02-12

You don't specify which relay to use, any specific part # I should look for?

author
lunchboxslayer27 made it! (author)2009-11-01

where did you get the pcb?

author
bombmaker2 made it! (author)bombmaker22009-12-12

i'm not 100% on this but it looks like he etched it himself

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-12-13

yes I made it myself.

author
bombmaker2 made it! (author)bombmaker22009-12-13

that's wat i thought

author
jb.clarke made it! (author)2009-10-13

 Why is there 5 relays yet there is only 4 channels/switches

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-10-13

One is for common, so if any channel is on it is on, the other four are independent channel ones.

author
jb.clarke made it! (author)jb.clarke2009-10-13

so when you press any switch is triggers both the top relay (from pin VT) and the one for the chosen channel?

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-12-13

yes

author
samlewis2406 made it! (author)2009-11-14

 will the led connected to the 4 channels still light without the relay being there?

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-12-13

yes, the relay is just there to provide some extra power to an external device that could be connected to it

author
jb.clarke made it! (author)2009-10-12

 Which CAD software did you use?

author
tulavatalo made it! (author)2009-10-09

will this work with a 9v or a 12vbattery

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-10-09

It will work with both, but it is desgined for a 12V.

There is a regulator to drop it down to 5V so therefore 9V and 12V would both work.

author
samlewis2406 made it! (author)2009-08-30

im having trouble locating a HT6014 can you please send me a link of where to find this chip i have been searching for quite a while now

author
bombmaker2 made it! (author)2009-07-11

how big were the boards u used

author
bombmaker2 made it! (author)bombmaker22009-07-11

also how did u make the layout

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-08-26

I used a CAD suite to design the Schmatic and Layout, then I used photosensitive board and a UV lightbox to make the tracks etc. I drilled the holes with a CAM machine I made that has a 1.5mm drill bit. I exported the data from the CAD suite into the CAM Machine and it drills the holes for you :D

author
bombmaker2 made it! (author)bombmaker22009-08-28

yea i dont hav any of that

author
KWeippert made it! (author)2009-08-26

Hey...You do realize that the two pics for the parts list for trans. and res. are the same pic. Just thought I would point that out. Please update this. Thanks

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-08-26

Sorry for that, I just updated it.

author
fatboy106 made it! (author)2009-04-05

rapid do everything

author
lifelong-newbie made it! (author)lifelong-newbie2009-07-18

Do they do the required encoder, decoder and radio equipment? They're what i can't find

author
yedead1 made it! (author)yedead12009-08-04

if rapid don't sell them maplin probably will

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-07-18

That's where I got them from.

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-05-20

I agree.

author
lifelong-newbie made it! (author)2009-07-17

Hi, great ible I'm UK based too, who did you use for parts? Regards Tom

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-07-18

I used Rapid, you can get them from CPC, RS, Farnell and others as well.

author
laverack69 made it! (author)2009-06-18

hi, would it be possible to make it work just one device rather then 4, and would you still need the ic chip? Thanks

author
mrwabbit made it! (author)2009-03-31

Sorry I'm newbie here. So where on the receiver circuit does detonation occurs? and where do i stick the nichrome wire? Thanks.

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-05-20

There are four channels. The LEDs signal them, but you can replace the LEDs with a detonator or wire them in parallel. The LEDs are running at 12V

author
jb.clarke made it! (author)2009-05-20

Just to check, both the transmitter and detonator work of 3V - 2AA? Cheers

author
collard41 made it! (author)collard412009-05-20

The circuit is designed to work on 12V. It has a 5V regulator for the chip. The chip works on 5V but I use a 12V power supply so I have built into the circuit a regulator. If you want you can redesign it and then it will work on 4.5V (3 AA or AAA).

author
collard41 made it! (author)2009-05-20

Yes you will, although you will have to figure out some sort of serial communication between the car and a controller. It is easier to but one.

author
mikey77 made it! (author)2008-07-06

To chalky, You are right. A mobile phone is an easier choice. An even easier choice is two wires and a battery. This is how most professionals who have a legitimate reason to detonate explosives do it. For the most part, they intentionally avoid using radio signals because the receiver could pick up spurious signals while they are hooking up. Boom! their face is gone. How is it below the belt to say that this instructable is dangerous and foolish?

author
lordofthedonuts made it! (author)lordofthedonuts2008-08-05

Ok, Making a detonator can be foolish, but it's a lot less dangerous than making the bomb itself. There's a ton of 'ible about how to make flash powder, black powder, Kno3 + Sucrose (wich is btw, the fuel used by the "terrorists" to proppel their rockets). Mikey, I respecet your opinion but I can't approve, if it's important to you go on every 'ible, about explosive or related to explosives, and post some comments like you just did here.

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