Introduction: Remote Detonator

Picture of Remote Detonator

here is a guide on how to make your own remote detonator (using radio):

you will need, a brain, two hands, eyes and some stuff below

a soldering iron.


wire snippers

wire strippers

and pliers.

Step 1: Parts (transmitter)

Picture of Parts (transmitter)

ok, here are the parts.

Case: I used a case from Rapid, I can't remember what the code was, but it comes with buttons and the project fits perfectly into it. Or if you are using it as a detonator you might want to make a snazzy case with lots of switches and knobs to make you feels more powerful.

Electrical Components:
i am from england and i use other companies to all you americans. i dont know if Digikey stock them or Radioshack, or you can use the internet. (dont complain to me though, its your problem)

two resistors, 1M resistor (R1) and a 150R to 400R(R2) are the values (you can get them anywhere in the world) the letter then number in the brackets for all the components relate to the layout and schematic (if you cant find these on radioshack then well...)

two capacitors:
(c1) Ceramic disk. value; 100nF
(c2) Electrolytic. value; 100uF (you should be able to find these on radioshack as well)

(U1) HT6014 this it the encoder chip, i dont know if you can get it over in america, but it works well and it is very available in U.K.
(U2) AM-RT4-418 this is the radio module, again i dont know if you can get it in america, tough cookies if you cant.

(D1) this is a 5mm led of any colour you want the resistor value to be between 150R and 400R beware that 150R will have the Brightest LED but any lower the LED will burn out.

3V battery holder (two AAAs) you can get that in america
SW1 - SW4 these are the transmitter switches (you guessed it, it is four channel, which means that you can detonate four different things seperately. the rapid order code for these is 78-0622. see they are PCB pushes.

18 pin dil socket you can get these in america. this is to mount the chip in.

then finally (for the Transmitter at least!)
an eight pin dil switch, this is optional and is purely to encode the signal, you need the same code on both ends to be able to use this. (might come in useful so no one detonates the stuff when you are close!)

That concludes the Transmitter parts list...

Step 2: Parts ( the Reciever)

Picture of Parts ( the Reciever)

this list is longer than the reciever!! dont worry too much.

well to start with there are 15 resistors (tedious)

So the case should be attractive, maybe with khaki camoflage on it (if you really want to) but try to make it streamlined or camoflage so that nobody will see it i did not originally make it for a detonator so i have not got a very good case.

R1 = 100k
R2-9 = 4.7K
R10 = 10K
R11-15 = 680R


C1-2 = 100nF (CERAMIC)


U1 = AM-HRR1-418 = Radio reciever
U2 = HT6034 = Decoder
U3 = 78L05 = 12V - 5V REGULATOR
Q1,Q6-9 = TIP 121 OR 122 = AMPLIFIER

D1,3,5,7,9 = 1N4001 = DIODE

AN1 = 17 cm PIECE OF WIRE (MUST BE 17cm)

ok, so there are the parts. im sorry if you cant get them over in america but, well again it is not my problem.

the TIP121 is a darlington driver, it is optional, but is reccomended it you want to use it as a detonator, see the chip runs off 5v and the TIP121 will amplify the current and make the 12v part of the circuit drive the detonator.

The 5 leds are, recieving transmission, and then for the four channels that indicate whether it is switched on.

NOTE: you can switch on more than one channel at a time so you can have multiple combinations. if you then feed the signal into a chip (if you do that do not output the signal through the amplifier) and in doing that you can have up to 15 (not including 0000 in binary) differnent explosive devices that can be controlled.

ok there goes the part lists for it...

Step 3: Construction

Picture of Construction

start with the small parts first as it will make it easier. write top at the top of the board so you dont forget which way up it goes. put the dil socket in first as this will orientate you in you quest to insert components. make sure the notch on the dil socket faces top.

then you can start to put in all the components, remember small first. resistors can go any way around. LEDs cant long leg is the positive (+) and short is -. diode have to go aroung the correct way. the stripe is the cathode (negative) use the pictures below to find out where they go (remember if it is too small you can click the i symbol and it will show you the full size of the image). try and use a different colour for the signal recieve LED.

make sure the big capacitor (the round one) has the long lead on the + side. or the grey stripe on the other side.

now you can build the boards, make sure you look at the pictures below

Step 4: Test

Picture of Test

i didnt actually use it as a detonator so i have not got any pictures of it working. but you can use Nichrome wire as it glows and melts when you pass current through it, so you can set off explosives.

it works with a range of about 90m, so you can get safely away.

i have included all the pictures at the bottom (with no captions on them)

you also might like to try and use this method of ignition here

remember to be safe with this.


TONYTONE88 (author)2014-12-27

This is great pal. Gettin a bloody head ache trying to learn electronics. Do h a request though. I'm trying to make a hand held detonator and disposable receivers that I can use on AIRSOFT granades so I only need one channel and the receiver to be a simple as possible. Could you strip your design down for me or point me in the right direction? Thanks again.

UmarK (author)2014-09-08

how if we use RTQ4-418 in place of RT4-418.

how to increase its range

ebolson (author)2014-03-12

I think you put them where the leds are

soul1974 (author)2013-05-16

Nice tutorial ,where do you connect the ignite wire

wh1zzyboy (author)2012-06-19

Is it possible that you can give us a link for the schematics, indestructable seems to make them to small.

monsterman (author)2012-05-25

where can you get the radio modules from?

joeyhof (author)2011-01-03

what kinda power supply can i use

collard41 (author)joeyhof2011-01-07

12V. Mine has max current of 500mA which is more than enough.

rbaluyut (author)collard412011-11-28

i can't see the electrical output for the receiver witch where you can put the nicrome wire.

please show me i want to make one..

joeyhof (author)2011-01-29

ok did you desinge this from your head or did you find how to build it on a website because im having such a hard time trying to build this thing?

Sev the Sniper (author)2010-04-21

Hi, does anyone know where to buy the encoders and decoders from? I have checked rapid and various other shops but with no luck.


joeyhof (author)Sev the Sniper2011-01-09 for the encoder and decoder

joeyhof (author)2011-01-07

were do you attatch the wires on the reciever to make it ignite? can i use a premade circuit board?

uxaxi (author)2010-03-09

are there any transmiters that you can buy in america that will do the same thing as yours?

dd_dodd (author)2010-02-12

You don't specify which relay to use, any specific part # I should look for?

lunchboxslayer27 (author)2009-11-01

where did you get the pcb?

i'm not 100% on this but it looks like he etched it himself

collard41 (author)bombmaker22009-12-13

yes I made it myself.

bombmaker2 (author)collard412009-12-13

that's wat i thought

jb.clarke (author)2009-10-13

 Why is there 5 relays yet there is only 4 channels/switches

collard41 (author)jb.clarke2009-10-13

One is for common, so if any channel is on it is on, the other four are independent channel ones.

jb.clarke (author)collard412009-10-13

so when you press any switch is triggers both the top relay (from pin VT) and the one for the chosen channel?

collard41 (author)jb.clarke2009-12-13


samlewis2406 (author)2009-11-14

 will the led connected to the 4 channels still light without the relay being there?

collard41 (author)samlewis24062009-12-13

yes, the relay is just there to provide some extra power to an external device that could be connected to it

jb.clarke (author)2009-10-12

 Which CAD software did you use?

tulavatalo (author)2009-10-09

will this work with a 9v or a 12vbattery

collard41 (author)tulavatalo2009-10-09

It will work with both, but it is desgined for a 12V.

There is a regulator to drop it down to 5V so therefore 9V and 12V would both work.

samlewis2406 (author)2009-08-30

im having trouble locating a HT6014 can you please send me a link of where to find this chip i have been searching for quite a while now

bombmaker2 (author)2009-07-11

how big were the boards u used

bombmaker2 (author)bombmaker22009-07-11

also how did u make the layout

collard41 (author)bombmaker22009-08-26

I used a CAD suite to design the Schmatic and Layout, then I used photosensitive board and a UV lightbox to make the tracks etc. I drilled the holes with a CAM machine I made that has a 1.5mm drill bit. I exported the data from the CAD suite into the CAM Machine and it drills the holes for you :D

bombmaker2 (author)collard412009-08-28

yea i dont hav any of that

KWeippert (author)2009-08-26

Hey...You do realize that the two pics for the parts list for trans. and res. are the same pic. Just thought I would point that out. Please update this. Thanks

collard41 (author)KWeippert2009-08-26

Sorry for that, I just updated it.

fatboy106 (author)2009-04-05

rapid do everything

Do they do the required encoder, decoder and radio equipment? They're what i can't find

yedead1 (author)lifelong-newbie2009-08-04

if rapid don't sell them maplin probably will

That's where I got them from.

collard41 (author)fatboy1062009-05-20

I agree.

lifelong-newbie (author)2009-07-17

Hi, great ible I'm UK based too, who did you use for parts? Regards Tom

I used Rapid, you can get them from CPC, RS, Farnell and others as well.

laverack69 (author)2009-06-18

hi, would it be possible to make it work just one device rather then 4, and would you still need the ic chip? Thanks

mrwabbit (author)2009-03-31

Sorry I'm newbie here. So where on the receiver circuit does detonation occurs? and where do i stick the nichrome wire? Thanks.

collard41 (author)mrwabbit2009-05-20

There are four channels. The LEDs signal them, but you can replace the LEDs with a detonator or wire them in parallel. The LEDs are running at 12V

jb.clarke (author)2009-05-20

Just to check, both the transmitter and detonator work of 3V - 2AA? Cheers

collard41 (author)jb.clarke2009-05-20

The circuit is designed to work on 12V. It has a 5V regulator for the chip. The chip works on 5V but I use a 12V power supply so I have built into the circuit a regulator. If you want you can redesign it and then it will work on 4.5V (3 AA or AAA).

collard41 (author)2009-05-20

Yes you will, although you will have to figure out some sort of serial communication between the car and a controller. It is easier to but one.

mikey77 (author)2008-07-06

To chalky, You are right. A mobile phone is an easier choice. An even easier choice is two wires and a battery. This is how most professionals who have a legitimate reason to detonate explosives do it. For the most part, they intentionally avoid using radio signals because the receiver could pick up spurious signals while they are hooking up. Boom! their face is gone. How is it below the belt to say that this instructable is dangerous and foolish?

lordofthedonuts (author)mikey772008-08-05

Ok, Making a detonator can be foolish, but it's a lot less dangerous than making the bomb itself. There's a ton of 'ible about how to make flash powder, black powder, Kno3 + Sucrose (wich is btw, the fuel used by the "terrorists" to proppel their rockets). Mikey, I respecet your opinion but I can't approve, if it's important to you go on every 'ible, about explosive or related to explosives, and post some comments like you just did here.

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