Instructables
Picture of Remote Detonator
case1.jpg
here is a guide on how to make your own remote detonator (using radio):

you will need, a brain, two hands, eyes and some stuff below

a soldering iron.

solder

wire snippers

wire strippers

and pliers.
 
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Step 1: Parts (transmitter)

Picture of Parts (transmitter)
layout.jpg
case1.jpg
ok, here are the parts.

Transmitter:
Case: I used a case from Rapid, I can't remember what the code was, but it comes with buttons and the project fits perfectly into it. Or if you are using it as a detonator you might want to make a snazzy case with lots of switches and knobs to make you feels more powerful.

Electrical Components:
i am from england and i use other companies to all you americans. i dont know if Digikey stock them or Radioshack, or you can use the internet. (dont complain to me though, its your problem)

two resistors, 1M resistor (R1) and a 150R to 400R(R2) are the values (you can get them anywhere in the world) the letter then number in the brackets for all the components relate to the layout and schematic (if you cant find these on radioshack then well...)

two capacitors:
(c1) Ceramic disk. value; 100nF
(c2) Electrolytic. value; 100uF (you should be able to find these on radioshack as well)

I.C.s
(U1) HT6014 this it the encoder chip, i dont know if you can get it over in america, but it works well and it is very available in U.K.
(U2) AM-RT4-418 this is the radio module, again i dont know if you can get it in america, tough cookies if you cant.

LEDs
(D1) this is a 5mm led of any colour you want the resistor value to be between 150R and 400R beware that 150R will have the Brightest LED but any lower the LED will burn out.

Miscellaneous:
3V battery holder (two AAAs) you can get that in america
SW1 - SW4 these are the transmitter switches (you guessed it, it is four channel, which means that you can detonate four different things seperately. the rapid order code for these is 78-0622. see they are PCB pushes.

18 pin dil socket you can get these in america. this is to mount the chip in.

then finally (for the Transmitter at least!)
an eight pin dil switch, this is optional and is purely to encode the signal, you need the same code on both ends to be able to use this. (might come in useful so no one detonates the stuff when you are close!)

That concludes the Transmitter parts list...
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UmarK22 days ago

how if we use RTQ4-418 in place of RT4-418.

how to increase its range

ebolson6 months ago
I think you put them where the leds are
soul19741 year ago
Nice tutorial ,where do you connect the ignite wire
wh1zzyboy2 years ago
Is it possible that you can give us a link for the schematics, indestructable seems to make them to small.
monsterman2 years ago
where can you get the radio modules from?
joeyhof3 years ago
what kinda power supply can i use
collard41 (author)  joeyhof3 years ago
12V. Mine has max current of 500mA which is more than enough.
i can't see the electrical output for the receiver witch where you can put the nicrome wire.

please show me i want to make one..
joeyhof3 years ago
ok did you desinge this from your head or did you find how to build it on a website because im having such a hard time trying to build this thing?
Hi, does anyone know where to buy the encoders and decoders from? I have checked rapid and various other shops but with no luck.

Thanks
solarbotics.com for the encoder and decoder
joeyhof3 years ago
were do you attatch the wires on the reciever to make it ignite? can i use a premade circuit board?
uxaxi4 years ago
are there any transmiters that you can buy in america that will do the same thing as yours?
dd_dodd4 years ago
You don't specify which relay to use, any specific part # I should look for?
where did you get the pcb?
i'm not 100% on this but it looks like he etched it himself
collard41 (author)  bombmaker24 years ago
yes I made it myself.
that's wat i thought
jb.clarke4 years ago
 Why is there 5 relays yet there is only 4 channels/switches
collard41 (author)  jb.clarke4 years ago
One is for common, so if any channel is on it is on, the other four are independent channel ones.
so when you press any switch is triggers both the top relay (from pin VT) and the one for the chosen channel?
collard41 (author)  jb.clarke4 years ago
yes
 will the led connected to the 4 channels still light without the relay being there?
collard41 (author)  samlewis24064 years ago
yes, the relay is just there to provide some extra power to an external device that could be connected to it
jb.clarke4 years ago
 Which CAD software did you use?
tulavatalo4 years ago
will this work with a 9v or a 12vbattery
collard41 (author)  tulavatalo4 years ago
It will work with both, but it is desgined for a 12V.

There is a regulator to drop it down to 5V so therefore 9V and 12V would both work.
im having trouble locating a HT6014 can you please send me a link of where to find this chip i have been searching for quite a while now
bombmaker25 years ago
how big were the boards u used
also how did u make the layout
collard41 (author)  bombmaker25 years ago
I used a CAD suite to design the Schmatic and Layout, then I used photosensitive board and a UV lightbox to make the tracks etc. I drilled the holes with a CAM machine I made that has a 1.5mm drill bit. I exported the data from the CAD suite into the CAM Machine and it drills the holes for you :D
yea i dont hav any of that
KWeippert5 years ago
Hey...You do realize that the two pics for the parts list for trans. and res. are the same pic. Just thought I would point that out. Please update this. Thanks
collard41 (author)  KWeippert5 years ago
Sorry for that, I just updated it.
fatboy1065 years ago
rapid do everything
Do they do the required encoder, decoder and radio equipment? They're what i can't find
if rapid don't sell them maplin probably will
collard41 (author)  lifelong-newbie5 years ago
That's where I got them from.
collard41 (author)  fatboy1065 years ago
I agree.
Hi, great ible I'm UK based too, who did you use for parts? Regards Tom
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