you will need, a brain, two hands, eyes and some stuff below
a soldering iron.
Step 1: Parts (transmitter)
Case: I used a case from Rapid, I can't remember what the code was, but it comes with buttons and the project fits perfectly into it. Or if you are using it as a detonator you might want to make a snazzy case with lots of switches and knobs to make you feels more powerful.
i am from england and i use other companies to all you americans. i dont know if Digikey stock them or Radioshack, or you can use the internet. (dont complain to me though, its your problem)
two resistors, 1M resistor (R1) and a 150R to 400R(R2) are the values (you can get them anywhere in the world) the letter then number in the brackets for all the components relate to the layout and schematic (if you cant find these on radioshack then well...)
(c1) Ceramic disk. value; 100nF
(c2) Electrolytic. value; 100uF (you should be able to find these on radioshack as well)
(U1) HT6014 this it the encoder chip, i dont know if you can get it over in america, but it works well and it is very available in U.K.
(U2) AM-RT4-418 this is the radio module, again i dont know if you can get it in america, tough cookies if you cant.
(D1) this is a 5mm led of any colour you want the resistor value to be between 150R and 400R beware that 150R will have the Brightest LED but any lower the LED will burn out.
3V battery holder (two AAAs) you can get that in america
SW1 - SW4 these are the transmitter switches (you guessed it, it is four channel, which means that you can detonate four different things seperately. the rapid order code for these is 78-0622. see they are PCB pushes.
18 pin dil socket you can get these in america. this is to mount the chip in.
then finally (for the Transmitter at least!)
an eight pin dil switch, this is optional and is purely to encode the signal, you need the same code on both ends to be able to use this. (might come in useful so no one detonates the stuff when you are close!)
That concludes the Transmitter parts list...
Step 2: Parts ( the reciever)
well to start with there are 15 resistors (tedious)
So the case should be attractive, maybe with khaki camoflage on it (if you really want to) but try to make it streamlined or camoflage so that nobody will see it i did not originally make it for a detonator so i have not got a very good case.
R1 = 100k
R2-9 = 4.7K
R10 = 10K
R11-15 = 680R
C1-2 = 100nF (CERAMIC)
C3 = 470uF (ELECTROLYTIC)
U1 = AM-HRR1-418 = Radio reciever
U2 = HT6034 = Decoder
U3 = 78L05 = 12V - 5V REGULATOR
Q1,Q6-9 = TIP 121 OR 122 = AMPLIFIER
Q2-5 = BC184L = NPN TRANSISTOR
D1,3,5,7,9 = 1N4001 = DIODE
D2,4,6,8,10= LED (COLOUR OF YOUR CHOICE)
AN1 = 17 cm PIECE OF WIRE (MUST BE 17cm)
POWER SOCKET = 12V POWER SOCKET (OR CAN RUN OFF 9V BATTERY)
IC SOCKET = DIL18 (18 PIN CHIP SOCKET)
ok, so there are the parts. im sorry if you cant get them over in america but, well again it is not my problem.
the TIP121 is a darlington driver, it is optional, but is reccomended it you want to use it as a detonator, see the chip runs off 5v and the TIP121 will amplify the current and make the 12v part of the circuit drive the detonator.
The 5 leds are, recieving transmission, and then for the four channels that indicate whether it is switched on.
NOTE: you can switch on more than one channel at a time so you can have multiple combinations. if you then feed the signal into a chip (if you do that do not output the signal through the amplifier) and in doing that you can have up to 15 (not including 0000 in binary) differnent explosive devices that can be controlled.
ok there goes the part lists for it...
Step 3: Construction
then you can start to put in all the components, remember small first. resistors can go any way around. LEDs cant long leg is the positive (+) and short is -. diode have to go aroung the correct way. the stripe is the cathode (negative) use the pictures below to find out where they go (remember if it is too small you can click the i symbol and it will show you the full size of the image). try and use a different colour for the signal recieve LED.
make sure the big capacitor (the round one) has the long lead on the + side. or the grey stripe on the other side.
now you can build the boards, make sure you look at the pictures below
Step 4: Test
it works with a range of about 90m, so you can get safely away.
i have included all the pictures at the bottom (with no captions on them)
you also might like to try and use this method of ignition here
remember to be safe with this.