Remove Broken Light Bulbs Without Getting Cut or Shocked Using A Water Bottle

Remove Broken Light Bulbs Without Getting Cut or Shocked Using A Water Bottle
I made this instructable for the "SAVE THE BOTTLE" contest. I know there are other ways of getting this piece out but I wanted find a good use for a water bottle. The risk of getting shocked is pretty much non existant with a water bottle when compared to a potato or pliers.


Remove Broken Light Bulbs Without Getting Cut or Shocked With A Water Bottle.

Have you ever tried to remove a light bulb and had it break in your hand. DON'T try to get the metal piece out with your hands or pliers. You could get shocked or cut! Here's an instructable on how to use an ordinary water bottle to extract that piece.
 
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Step 1Remove Label, Lid and Collar

Remove Label, Lid and Collar
First, TURN THE LIGHT SWITCH OFF. Now, if it's a lamp with a cord and plug then, UNPLUG THE LIGHT. Then, double check the light switch is off. Then double check that it's unplugged. If you've ever been shocked you'll know why I repeated those steps. LEARN from my mistakes here people! Haha The devise we're making is plastic so you're not likely to be shocked even if the power is on but it's better to be safe than sorry.

Now, take an empty water bottle. The heftier ones are better for this application. Remove the cap, the label and the little ring around the neck that breaks when you take the lid off.
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136 comments
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Jan 31, 2009. 12:47 AMlaznz1 says:
HOW TO REMOVE A BROKEN OFF LIGHT BULB 1.Cut a potato in half 2. Ram on Broken metal 3.Twist SIMPLE and SAFE
Sep 8, 2010. 8:04 PMpaqrat says:
I've used the potato to good effect.
Feb 6, 2009. 6:28 AMMatt4_16 says:
always works for me (the potato that is)
Feb 6, 2009. 10:29 AMPlasmana says:
But is that a waste of money?
Feb 12, 2009. 1:15 AMfinfan7 says:
A waste of money as compared to what? A water bottle for this method? ($1 from vending machine, free if you drink bottled water anyway) Replacing the whole lamp? ($$) Heck, if you're pulling out potatoes anyway you could use the part of the potato not used on the light for food.
Feb 16, 2009. 2:21 AMPlasmana says:
The potato method. Potatoes are also conductive, so if someone forgets to unplug the lamp, they would have an zapping and smoky nightmare from the potato, and it would be a pain to clean the potato residue burnt onto the lamp...
Feb 16, 2009. 8:29 AMfinfan7 says:
I'm a bit confused. Did you just say it is a waste of money compared to itself and then launch into the safety issues? As far as safety is concerned the issue is kind of moot since any method one could use has the danger of electric shock if one doesn't unplug the lamp.
Feb 6, 2009. 6:05 PMMatt4_16 says:
What kind of expensive potatoes do you buy?
Jun 23, 2009. 9:25 AMPunkguyta says:
I buy Yukon Gold spuds, they cost more than speckled salmon or canned albacore, dontchaknow?
Feb 11, 2009. 2:35 AMPlasmana says:
I don't use potatoes to get the light bulb out...
Feb 6, 2009. 8:16 PMi make shooting things says:
what do you do with empty bottles?
Feb 16, 2009. 9:31 AMMatt4_16 says:
recycle and get my money back
Feb 16, 2009. 11:54 AMi make shooting things says:
yeah a penny
Feb 16, 2009. 12:53 PMMatt4_16 says:
where the hell are you from, i get like 10-25 cents a bottle, when i take all them in i usually get 50-100 bucks
Feb 16, 2009. 7:53 PMi make shooting things says:
damn we gota pay to recycle them here
Mar 6, 2009. 11:53 AMjunits15 says:
wow that stinks
Feb 5, 2009. 6:27 PMnvnusman says:
Okay, I had the need just two days ago and bought a spud and tried that. The shell of the bulb is somewhat recessed in a ceramic socket, so I picked a potato with a narrow end. Pushed it in there and counter-clockwised it and all I got was an indentation in the spud the diameter of the light bulb's metal shell. I'll try this next. (YES, I unplugged it!) The particular fixture in inverted so the heat from the 375-watt heat lamp accelerates oxidation and the bulbs rarely are extracted easily. I'll try a bit of PJ on the next bulb. I've used pliers in the past, but the most recent attempt spun the ceramic socket and the insulation on the wires above, while supposedly "Hi-Temp," cracked off and the wiring shorted out. At least a (dry) plastic water bottle is not as conductive as a spud (but I pulled the plug OUT!). Thanks for the instructable. BTW, I think there should be a special place in Purgatory for the engineer who spec'ced that fluourescent bulbs should be a silly millimeter longer than the opening into which we must insert them while teetering on ladders!
Feb 5, 2009. 6:04 PMac-dc says:
This is unreasonable. Any sane person dealing with broken, potentially still live AC powered items, unplugs them or flips the circuit beaker/pulls fuse, NOT shoving anything (even non-conductive because the circuit could still be shorted by part of the bulb or dodgy wiring) in until they know the circuit isn't live. It is not likely all the clocks are on the same circuit as one light, it would take about 1 minute to reset a clock, if we are talking about safety then never wonder, flip the breaker on the circuit or leave the job to someone who knows or has a meter to test whether it's live still.
Jun 23, 2009. 11:42 PMsarge89or says:
Try tripping the breakers one at a time and make a list of which breaker controls what circuit. Then in the future you will know which one to trip. Duh, guess you never thought of that.
Feb 5, 2009. 7:26 PMac-dc says:
If the home doesn't have a clear diagram of the circuits on the breaker box, that should be done right away, before a light bulb or anything else breaks. If one is unsure, generally it is better to at least flip the breaker for the circuit it seems to be on, rather than leaving that circuit live. Non-ground-faulted outlets in the same room are most likely on the same circuit for example so at least by plugging a lamp into one of those you can tell when that circuit is off. You can be reasonably sure the light is not on the same circuit as something distant, because the electrician won't have wound a single piece of wire in several different directions instead of the straightest run possible per area where it terminates, but again if there is any doubt it would be worthwhile to turn off any breaker in question, resetting a clock is a minor inconvenience considering light bulbs don't break in their sockets all that often.
Jan 31, 2009. 9:36 PMlaznz1 says:
1: Ram a wet potato in the socket and have a 50% chance of shock its is completly safe ive done it for years
Feb 9, 2009. 9:49 PMSolderguy says:
You wouldn't even have this problem if you bought florescent light bulbs.
Sep 8, 2010. 8:02 PMpaqrat says:
Not too long ago I found some led bulbs at Walmart. Sort of torpedo shaped bulbs wih standard bulb bases. They are also available in candelabra bases. 1.5 watts. I believe it is supposed to be equivilent to 40 watt incandescent but the one I have seems to be producing more light than that. They also have some bulbs that I believe are intended for recessed lighting and tracks. Price was $5.something for the torpedo types. More expensive than cfl if purchased in bulk but no mercury. I prefer the color of the light produced to some of the cfl's too.
Jun 26, 2009. 11:45 AMdombeef says:
Now the florescent bulbs have almost no mercury
May 22, 2010. 9:04 AMchicoman says:
Hi, I tried your idea which I thought was terrific however I had a base that was too small. The bottle would not fit in the confined space (beneath my microwave) I noticed the plastic ring still on the bottle (which is used to seal the lid during processing), I removed it, squeezed the sides together, carefully inserted fully into the base sideways, and released  the tension. To my amazement the  ring had just enough force to grip the inside of the base and I was able to easily twist the ring without getting close to the short pieces of glass.
Jun 23, 2009. 8:43 AMtommck says:
Why not unplug it and use needle-nose pliers?
Jun 23, 2009. 11:14 AMtommck says:
At the time I commented on this, there were 10 comments, so, I did do that.
Jun 23, 2009. 9:28 AMPunkguyta says:
I gotta say, this is a good re-use of an empty water bottle. And I'm up for re-using used materials, sometimes it may be silly, other times like this, more practical. However, I don't see light bulbs breaking/getting rusted into the socket unless they're using a moist environment. Sure petroleum jelly would work well to get it out easier next time, would it not maybe burn a little if the bulb got really hot? I'm sure maybe eventually caking on the socket itself and making it even harder to remove next time? Personally pliers have worked swell for me in the past, but my reccomendation is just get a better/different lamp/light socket, I think half of it is due part of the design of the socket and the threads for the bulb, I haven't had to remove a broken bulb for years in my house.
Feb 8, 2009. 3:31 PMlunchboxslayer27 says:
who cares what other methods are! jeez!
Feb 9, 2009. 11:15 AMimrealldum says:
snickers would be tastier though....
May 1, 2009. 7:25 PMlunchboxslayer27 says:
go away!
Feb 22, 2009. 10:52 PMawlakers says:
stir stick for stirring paint is what i've always used..fits perfect.
Feb 11, 2009. 11:28 AMblodefood says:
I have heard that you can also use a hard vegetable like a potato to remove a light bulb base. Just make sure the fixture is unplugged first and there is no moisture left after the potato is used. Cut away the embedded part and throw the rest in the compost.
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I would love to find a job where I could play with fabrication tools all day and be creative. Anyone have a suggestion?