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This Instructable explains how to build an infrared paint remover, which is cheaper, safer, and more environmentally friendly than normal paint removal chemicals.
Here's a video of this project:
This should cost you ~ $50 to build (commercial versions cost ~$400). If you're going to strip any significant amount of wood, this should also be cheaper than buying chemical removers.
I sell kit and finished versions of this and most of my other projects on my website, dirtnail.
Additionally, this method should be safer for you and the environment than using conventional, toxic paint removers.
Thanks to the dude at Ocean Manor House for building this and sharing his plans: my version is at best a slight improvement and more likely a downgrade from his:-)
Here's a video of this project:
This should cost you ~ $50 to build (commercial versions cost ~$400). If you're going to strip any significant amount of wood, this should also be cheaper than buying chemical removers.
I sell kit and finished versions of this and most of my other projects on my website, dirtnail.
Additionally, this method should be safer for you and the environment than using conventional, toxic paint removers.
Thanks to the dude at Ocean Manor House for building this and sharing his plans: my version is at best a slight improvement and more likely a downgrade from his:-)
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Signing UpStep 1Gather Your Materials, Tools
The big decision to make in getting your materials is if you'd rather build an enclosure or spend ~$40 to buy one. The Ocean Manor House guy bought an enclosure and modified it to make it portable, and I built my own. His looks correspondingly higher-quality:)
For my way, here are the materials you'll need:
-A 120-volt ceramic infrared heater: I used this 900 watt unit, and it cost ~$40 after shipping. The $400 commercial units use an 1100-watt unit.
-A higher-gauge ac cord: I used one from an old microwave. make sure it's capable of handling however many watts you will be pumping through it (remember watts = volts * amps). for my project, I need a cord that will handle 900 watts or a cord rated to handle 900 / 120 = 7.5 amps of 120-volt AC.
-Electrical tape + wire nuts + thin-guage wire. For a higher-quality, more durable build, replae all 3 of these w/ high-temperature, nonconductive tape.
-A paint roller brush, sans roller sponge thingy.
-Some type of metal to build the reflector out of. I suppose this is optional and really just about increasing the efficiency, but it's definitely a good idea. I tried aluminum cans cut in half from top to bottom of can, and this metal was too thin.
-Rivets and riveting tool (optional), to better secure your improvised reflector to your hacked-apart paint roller
-An extension cord, so that you can remove paint further than the length of your power cord from an AC outlet:)
-Paint scraper, to remove your loosened paint.
Tools you'll want are:
-Wire stripper. I heart my automatic wire stripper, although any reasonably sharp knife would do in a pinch.
-Metal cutter capable of cutting the metal used for the reflector (and the wire). I used tin snips.
-A grinder or other tool to cut through the rolling part of the paint roller.
-Drill or other tool to make holes in the metal used for the reflector.
For my way, here are the materials you'll need:
-A 120-volt ceramic infrared heater: I used this 900 watt unit, and it cost ~$40 after shipping. The $400 commercial units use an 1100-watt unit.
-A higher-gauge ac cord: I used one from an old microwave. make sure it's capable of handling however many watts you will be pumping through it (remember watts = volts * amps). for my project, I need a cord that will handle 900 watts or a cord rated to handle 900 / 120 = 7.5 amps of 120-volt AC.
-Electrical tape + wire nuts + thin-guage wire. For a higher-quality, more durable build, replae all 3 of these w/ high-temperature, nonconductive tape.
-A paint roller brush, sans roller sponge thingy.
-Some type of metal to build the reflector out of. I suppose this is optional and really just about increasing the efficiency, but it's definitely a good idea. I tried aluminum cans cut in half from top to bottom of can, and this metal was too thin.
-Rivets and riveting tool (optional), to better secure your improvised reflector to your hacked-apart paint roller
-An extension cord, so that you can remove paint further than the length of your power cord from an AC outlet:)
-Paint scraper, to remove your loosened paint.
Tools you'll want are:
-Wire stripper. I heart my automatic wire stripper, although any reasonably sharp knife would do in a pinch.
-Metal cutter capable of cutting the metal used for the reflector (and the wire). I used tin snips.
-A grinder or other tool to cut through the rolling part of the paint roller.
-Drill or other tool to make holes in the metal used for the reflector.
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like any other tool, power or otherwise, you should be fine if you use this cautiously and have a plan for if things go wrong. specifically, i would:
1. have a fire extinguisher, or at least water, ready anytime you work with something like this
2. test on a small area first, especially if you're stripping something with valuable underlying wood
best of luck; if you build one, pls be sure to post photos!
-luke
If your house was built before 1978, the safest course is to assume that lead is present and follow lead-safe practices. No sanding (unless the dust can be contained) and definitely no heat guns.
Infrared paint removers are fine!
P.S.
Your house can be tested for lead, but that can prove expensive in more than one way. Regardless of the results, the fact that you tested for lead could make your house unsaleable. And you are required by law to disclose the test and results to potential buyers.
infrared emitter works in its gentle way that omits before mentioned problems.
I figured I was using it incorrectly, so I looked on the 'Net and learned about infrared paint strippers.* Removes paint using lower temperatures than a heat gun, and it's quiet, to boot.
*From http://www.projo.com/home/content/lh_heatgunsafety_05-20-07_I45J2E4.11e01d1.html
"• Infrared paint strippers. Tools using infrared heating elements can remove paint and varnish at lower temperatures than many heat guns. The rectangular devices, which can be bulky to maneuver, radiate heat between 380 and 750 degrees. (Some wood ignites at 745 degrees.) These tools also have drawbacks.
Doug Rosner, owner of DHR Construction, near Frederick, Md., uses the Speedheater. It can scorch wood “if you leave it on an excessive amount of time,” he said. Those dark marks remain visible under a clear finish. The devices cost about $400, he said. (For details, go to www.speedheatersystem.com.)"
why not just power sand and chisel it off? it would be faster. you'd even have enough time to give it a couple passes with a random orbit sander
Good question; to be honest, I had to do some homework to come up with an answer:)
Short version: while you may use more power than a random orbit sander, you will release less nasty paint dust.
One of the infrared emitter companies has a useful comparison to sanding:
"The sander will break the paint into very fine dust that will be spread into the neighborhood and into residential homes. This is how people get lead poisoning. Some areas allow sanders with vacuum attachments collecting at best 50% of the dust. There again, the environment and the neighborhood will still receive lots of paint dust. We also believe that any paint is unhealthy, not only lead paint. Acrylic paint contains some 45 chemical ingredients and should not be inhaled by anyone. A sander will not only gouge the wood, it will also close the grain preventing the paint from getting a good tooth."
Check out this article by This Old House for a more-credible comparison.
On the power front, even a small random orbit sander is 4.3 amps, making it already 516 watts. Add in some type of dust-capturing vacuum and you'll be competitive with the infrared emitter.
Thanks,
luke