I drive a diesel Ford Excursion. I like this big Ford for it's people and stuff capacity, and bought it because I knew I could convert it to run on a recovered and reused resource. With a conversion kit from http://www.goldenfuelsystems.com it now runs on diesel, biodiesel and straight veggie oil.

Regardless of fuel, it's powered by a 7.3l diesel PowerStroke engine. Even with better engine lubricity while running SVO that engine makes for a LOUD CAR.

I wanted to make the driving experience more pleasant, so I decided to add sound deadening to my vehicle.

I've found that sound deadening is an involved process. I'll post separate projects to cover pieces of the job. This Instructable covers initial interior trim removal and the application of an aluminum/butyl sound deadening mat.

Folks often apply sound deadening to achieve better car audio quality. It will also partially help reduce fatigue on car trips by lowering the ambient noise level inside your car.

Step 1: Tools and Supplies

I used tools already on hand as well as supplies purchased specifically for this project.

Tools and supplies on hand:

Tin snips
Metal tape (could have been masking...)
Wire brush
Tape measure
Old toothbrush
Paper towels
2 used coffee pod tins
Handheld dustpan and brush
Black and silver Sharpie pens
Socket wrenches, Hex head sockets
'Disposable' vinyl gloves, several pairs
'Disposable' razorblade "carpet" knife, several blades
Extremely large Philips (flat head) screw driver for prying

Specific supplies via Ace Hardware, Napa Auto Parts and http://www.raamaudio.com :

3 cans V&S Spray Adhesive
Invisible Glove hand protector fluid
8 yards Ensolite" MLC foam sheeting
2.5 rolls RAAMmat BXT - adhesive aluminum/butyl rubber mat
**subtotal $345.82 incl. $36.87 shipping**

12+ cans (and counting) Dow Chemicals "Great Stuff Large Gaps" expanding polyurethane foam
@ $2.99 ea.
:-(I think I mis-applied the first 6 or so cans by spraying too quickly)
how do you remove the back panels on the hatch of the trunk
Nice instructable. Few notes. Rubber mats are much more effective in the centre of the body panels than at the edges. It's because the extra weight reduces vibration of the body panels (slows down the frequency) so you cannot hear it as much. You need to be careful not to obstruct the little holes in the doors. If they are plugged, moisture will collect and the part will rust. Expanding foam might trap moisture between it and metal also causing rust. <br> <br>A side note because of the license plate text ;). Not many people realise that BioDiesel and vegetable oil supposedly cause lot more pollution than regular old Diesel. Growing them causes lot of pollution, also those fields that are now used for BioDiesel are no longer being used for growing food, causing less supply of food and therefore higher food prices. The food now has to be moved from further away and all those airplanes, trucks and ships pollute. There is also a conspiracy theory that oil companies have raised their prices on regular oil to make the BioDiesel look better. Some say that BioDiesel is just another case of environmentalists shooting themselves in the foot.
Just a heads-up: You actually only need 25% coverage per-panel to deaden sound. Anything over that offers **very little** additional dampening but a great deal more cost &amp; weight.
Brilliant!&nbsp;<br /> <br /> Iam looking to soundproof my 80's Project car. <br /> <br /> Mind if i ask what your budget was for the work?<br /> <br /> And BTW, your Instructible was the reason why I finally signed up. Keep up the good work!<br /> <br /> Thank you, <br /> Jay
Jay, thanks for the encouragement - glad you're enjoying Instructables as much as I do!<br /> <br /> Budget on this... several weeks' spare hours for the project to date, so lots of personal resources committed there. <br /> <br /> Hard costs&nbsp;for materials, &nbsp;~U$400. <br /> <br /> Hope that helps!
Looking forward to the next installment. Do you fill all holes? Perhaps some are needed to access some bolt or such during repairs, I'm not sure. Are you also going to insulate the engine compartment? I've seen ads for heat resistant foam that would further the noise from the engine.
The only holes I left uncovered in the cargo area were spring tab slots for securing various trim pieces, and those will get filled with their socket liners and then the tabs & interior trim pieces again. I did want to cover absolutely all the metal and holes & resonant cavities I could. I'll show this in the next section - I tried to make it relatively easy to regain access to the only bolt heads I could see through the cargo area floor. But since those sit below great big holes in the floor, I did cover them over with a doubled sandwich of butyl/aluminum and ensolite mats. I simply marked where the bolts sit under that deadening material for future reference. It'd be easy to slice out sections of the deadening and get at the bolts if needed in the future. And if the big marks I inked down get obscured it'd also be simple to poke a stiff wire up thru the floor's holes to show where to cut out the floor matting. I plan to lay down a doubled sandwich of butyl/aluminum + ensolite under the entire driver/passenger/seating areas, covering the entire interior floor including the firewall between the passenger and engine compartments. Haven't made plans for putting sound insulation in the engine compartment itself yet. I'd love to find out more about heat resistant foam that'd stand up to engine compartment temps. Thanks for the positive comment!

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More by kerns:Auto sound deadening - part II - more matting and using expanding foam Auto sound deadening  - part I - remove trim, install some matting. Repair / join strapping with zipties 
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