This is quite a long instructable. It's not really a 'how to' as such because different models, sizes and ages of drill press will require different repairs, adjustments and techniques to renovate.
This is more of a 'how I did this one', and there's no way to cover everything, I can only describe what was needed to get this drill press back up and running.
My reason for doing this project was purely practical. I needed a drill press for my 'micro workshop' and I had no money to buy even a good second hand one. Cost had to be kept to the absolute minimum, whilst giving me a practical, usable tool at the end. It's a bit of a gamble because the drill could have turned out to be beyond repair and therefore a waste money.
I waited and searched for a drill that was ready for the scrap yard. It had to be quoted as 'working' but I knew that this would probably mean that it would turn when the motor was switched on. It took me two months to find one.
This is more of a 'how I did this one', and there's no way to cover everything, I can only describe what was needed to get this drill press back up and running.
My reason for doing this project was purely practical. I needed a drill press for my 'micro workshop' and I had no money to buy even a good second hand one. Cost had to be kept to the absolute minimum, whilst giving me a practical, usable tool at the end. It's a bit of a gamble because the drill could have turned out to be beyond repair and therefore a waste money.
I waited and searched for a drill that was ready for the scrap yard. It had to be quoted as 'working' but I knew that this would probably mean that it would turn when the motor was switched on. It took me two months to find one.
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Signing UpStep 1: The drill on arrival
Here's the drill as I got it. It cost me £5.00 GBP.(about $8.00)
The first thing to do is to check the drill over and try and figure out exactly what you have bought BEFORE you start working on it.
The second image shows the general arrangement of the standard drill press from 1931. Some have a lot more parts than mine, but the main areas of interest are the condition and accuracy of the base, the main pillar (column), the table, the spindle, the quill and the chuck.
This is the correct drive pulley system for the pattern of drill I purchased. Do a little research before you start work.
Everything was covered in light surface rust and the shite of a hundred years worth of use (the drill was made between 1899 and 1914). The paint work was a multitude of colours with at least three layers of paint, all poorly finished. The motor mount was a homemade item that was badly fitted and totally wrong for the drill, the drive belt pulley was the wrong type and size for the drill, the ancient key-less chuck had a broken jaw and wouldn't tighten, and most seriously, the quill rack and pinion gearing was U/S and kept jamming. The ball bearings were pitted and rusty.
The motor wiring was dubious at best and dangerous at worst, there was no on/off switch, the motor started as soon as it was plugged in.
But the drill DID spin up when the motor was turned on (although the motor stalled at start up). So not a total disaster. there was some slop or 'wobble' at the chuck (about 30 to 40 thou on my dial gauge) but the bearing cup was also a little loose so maybe that could be improved upon.
All these problems needed testing, investigating and correcting.
The first thing to do is to check the drill over and try and figure out exactly what you have bought BEFORE you start working on it.
The second image shows the general arrangement of the standard drill press from 1931. Some have a lot more parts than mine, but the main areas of interest are the condition and accuracy of the base, the main pillar (column), the table, the spindle, the quill and the chuck.
This is the correct drive pulley system for the pattern of drill I purchased. Do a little research before you start work.
Everything was covered in light surface rust and the shite of a hundred years worth of use (the drill was made between 1899 and 1914). The paint work was a multitude of colours with at least three layers of paint, all poorly finished. The motor mount was a homemade item that was badly fitted and totally wrong for the drill, the drive belt pulley was the wrong type and size for the drill, the ancient key-less chuck had a broken jaw and wouldn't tighten, and most seriously, the quill rack and pinion gearing was U/S and kept jamming. The ball bearings were pitted and rusty.
The motor wiring was dubious at best and dangerous at worst, there was no on/off switch, the motor started as soon as it was plugged in.
But the drill DID spin up when the motor was turned on (although the motor stalled at start up). So not a total disaster. there was some slop or 'wobble' at the chuck (about 30 to 40 thou on my dial gauge) but the bearing cup was also a little loose so maybe that could be improved upon.
All these problems needed testing, investigating and correcting.
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That one is only a drill/lathe combo, but you could probably rig up a grinding wheel and put it in the chuck of the lathe.
we had one in one of our workshops and it runned perfectly well and very very smoothly, with little effort on the material
May be I'm wrong about the one being posted but ours had a stand that could be revolved : on one you had a mechanical vice with a deep groove on the plate preventing oil to drop on the ground, on the other side it had a simple plate used to drill wood …
Perfect ! …
My only concern is the neoprene belting I have used which does not have a high 'grip'. I have been looking for an alternative 3mm or 4mm belting system to improve this.
We never ran out of it as far as I can remember but I doubt if one could find any of the stuff now… maybe a substitute ?…
I may eventually look around for a rubber drive belt solution.
have a good week end (if my writing is not too late : I' can't tell if you're in NZ or USA, for isntance !!… :D
Two questions: what is the name of that tubular-looking belt you're using? Never seen it before. And since I have no motor on mine, what speed should I shoot for at the drill? Thanks a lot!
-Mike
My drill runs from about 300 RPM to about 800 RPM
Congratulations !
CCOAlex
http://www.lathes.co.uk/page4.html
I love it when I see old tools such as this being restored to working order.
Congratulations on your efforts and success.
(I restored an Atlas/Craftsman metalworking lathe from the 1930's in similar fashion. I brought it back to working order after it sat neglected and unused in an open garage for over 40 years - I didn't take any pictures though.)
Keep drilling!! ;)
Maybe you mentioned it, but OWWM is an awesome resource for rebuilding old tools.
^_^