Step 3: Preparing the parts for painting

After you have removed all the accessories, it is best to take the frame apart. What I mean is to take the handle bars off and remove the front fork and pull out the seat post. This makes it alot easier to paint everthing.
After you have broken the frame down go about removing all the old decals and decorations from the bicycle, like the head badge if it has one. A razor blade comes in handy for removing the decals, either use to peel up an edge or it push comes to shove use it as a scerper. Next you well want to sand down all the rust on the frame and clean the bicycle, I use paper towel soaked in rubbing alchole and wipe every thing to remove the sanding dust and grease.
The last step before painting is to mask things off what you do not want to get paint on, like the crank bearing cups in the bottom bracket, and also the head stock bearing cups, I usally just remove these though.
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Yeah, a couple of light coats instead of just a vew heavy coats. I learned that earlier, but it's still really hard to be patient when you want your project to proceed. But this project is one I wanted to do for abou the last 9 months for my old bike. There were just so many other projects, too ;-) <br> <br>But good job! <br> <br>Maybe I'll repaint my bike, too. If so, I can post some pictures.
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At the sand paper stage, what type of sand paper do I use?
Good information; however, &quot;will&quot; is not spelled &quot;well&quot;. On a positive note, good pictures. Thanks!
check out what i did:<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b15/goth_pyro666777/magic008.jpg">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b15/goth_pyro666777/magic008.jpg</a><br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b15/goth_pyro666777/magic007.jpg">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b15/goth_pyro666777/magic007.jpg</a><br/><br/>two words...spray paint.<br/>
two more words .. Looks Stolen =D
2 more words ...no comment
which is funny, b/c you are...
This looks like something Satin would sell you..but yeah whats ur fixer luk lik?
did ypu dissasemble the bike before painting?
that looks so so rank why would you ruin a good bike like that
well, it was a twenty dollar bike...and long ago in the fog of heavy opiate usage...i wanted to spray paint everything i owned gold. but now i have a fixy. and it run gud. and i treat it rite.
Oh hot damn. That bike definitely got the midas touch. I really don't think that's gonna last long with paint on all those moving parts. Wait. Did you really paint your chain? What?
That's a pretty bad paint job. But I guess nobody would ever want to steal your bike. That's a plus.
IS that a destiny? B/c it looks alot like mine but i did mine in silver and left the green in the back :)
pimpin man!! :P
lol, love that bling!
pretty sweet man.
This guys spelling needs help
I am from England, I have ordered a bag from brandbagsales.com. When I receive the product. I find it is not the color I like.They change the bag for me immediately for free. The service is very good.
i'm painting my bike and it seems that after the priming, the surface is rejecting the paint. the surface being handlebars and paint being rustoleum metallic gold, it just wrinkled up like foil almost. does anyone know what that means and or how to fix it?
well clear coats have that effect on some paint i.e rust-o-leam paint and tremclad&nbsp;clear coat it might have the same effect with different brands of primer
the &quot;gooseneck&quot; is also called a stem
Could I paint all the colors of the bike and let them dry for a day, then use a heat gun to cure the paint? Would it be harder? What is the cheapest clear coat that you guys suggest?
Would using a normal primer be alright? Or does it have to be an aluminum primer for an aluminum bike?
I know there are two kinds of primer Aluminum and Regular.... If you sand enough would using the regular primer be okay ?
if i taped up everything i have to take off and do separately ( handle bars, pedals, tires, etc.) could i still sand, primer, and paint like that?
I painted a few bikes once and found that you could make the paint a lot harder to scratch if you backed the frake in an oven. Sounds funny but it works. I just turned on my oven and would place half of it in at a time for a few minutes (obviously the whole frame would'nt fit at once) and I noticed that the paint was much harder in general. Be carefull though.
A friend of mine who is a professional bike painter uses ovens from a bakery to cure his paint. He bakes at about 150 degrees for about 2 hours. This doesn't make the paint any harder than the paint would EVENTUALLY be, it just speeds up the drying and curing process by about 3 months.
thats a good idea, make sure the room is well ventillated though. A hot air gun would be an alternative you could use outdoors
Any suggestions on using tool that may be lying around the garage to remove old road bike bottom brackets.... I have an old schwinn frame that I want to refurb... but I dont want to spring the 40 or so more dollars for the tools to take of the bottom bracket... Any help would be kool... or atleast a site with cheap tools???
There are two sides to a bottom bracket : fixed cup (right side) and lockring / adjustable cup (left cup). On a vintage bike, here is what you do. For the fixed cup, I use a really gigantic crescent wrench, about $15 for a really cheap one. Remember that each cup of an English bottom bracket is designed to TIGHTEN as you pedal. Turn the cup THE OTHER WAY to loosen it. For adjustable cup, the best tool is the spanner that came with 1970's RALEIGH SPORTS bikes, it's a semicircle with a 'tooth' at the end. In a pinch, a screwdriver covered in duct tape and a hammer might loosen the lockring. Then, for the adjustable cup, you need a VAR or PARK or ATD pin-spanner. This is like a pair of tongs with 2 small pins that screw through the tips of the tongs, to open to any width. The pins (look like short 8mm long allen-head screws with pins at the end) can be purchased at most bike shops, or the whole tool is about $10.
good question. You could try wraping it in a rag and putting it in a vise, making sure to not tighten it too much or you'll f' it up. Second suggestion is an oil filter wrench if you think it would bite the bracket. Third suggestion is to whack it with a hammer and chisel. Most bracket have dimples along the rim, if its not too ceased that should get'r'done (o; ts of wd 40 beforehand to get it as loose as possible.
Those are pretty good ideas actually... i never thought of using a chisel... any suggestions on what to use instead of a crank remover/puller???
search back in instructables, I think Dan posted some details on this If you can get any bite with cold chisel try putting a clamp on first and whack the clamp bolt
i paint bikes all the time all iuse is rattle cans from walmart only about a buck a can for paint and clearcoat and cos it gets hot here in st louis my garage gets hot and it drys the paint fast and when its done go to a sign shop and you can get most of the stickers on the bike redone for a small price i take photos and it makes the bike look alot better
I just touched up a vintage leTour tourist with custom mixed enamel from Sherwin Williams auto devision. Anyone got any ideas on a good rattle can clear coat for enamel finishes. The gal at SW didn't think the enamel needed a clearcoat but clearcoat is what brings out the depth and shine (imho)and with the orig. decals in place and in good shape I certainly don't want to risk color sanding without several coats of clear coat. fwiw The touch up spray matched the spicy chestnut (origional schwinn)color to a 'T'. Not sure if PPG offers custom touch up in rattle cans but Sherwin Williams does (about$13. a 7.6oz can)
this all sounds ok- but how long does this paint last? I've heard not so great reports about spray paint.
I did this to an old Stumpjumper I had. I used color changing auto paint. It's metallic green from one angle and gold from another- sweet. The only problem I've encountered is the clear coat chipping off. I painted the frame in the middle of a hot and humid Virginia summer so the humidity might have been a problem. Next time I'll try a heat gun and some higher quality clear coat. To get the crank off I went down to the local bike shop and gave 'um a few bucks to pop that sucker off.
I scratched off the clear coat of my bicycle with a rough sponge and I don’t know what clear coat to add on it. It is really nice paint. Do you have any suggestions?
Good instructions but I have one problem. How do I remove the crank?
I used plasticoke from an auto parts store, it seems to hold up good. I think any good brand well work just fine and the more you spend on preping the bike the better it well be.
thanks for the instructions. my daughter wants me to paint her bike, any suggestions on what kind of paint to use
very nice instructable, I usually strip all the paint of with paint remove and a wire brush, then buff is with fine sand paper and clear coat it. Works ok with steal frames but a real treat with chromalloy or alluminium. Bike looks very bling bling.. but is also a little more stealable.
Let me try that again, this time in English very nice instructable, I usually strip all the paint of with paint remover and a wire brush, then buff it with fine sand paper and clear coat it. Works ok with steal frames but a real treat with chrom-alloy or aluminium. My bikes look very bling bling.. but is also a little more stealable.
Hey radio, Have you had any problems with the durability of the clear coat? I just stripped an old steel stumpy, and was thinking it looked kind of cool bare metal...but I'm kind of leery of the durability of a clear coat. How many layers do you put on?
Yeah I have heard of the baking process before, unfortunatelly I do not have the ability to do that, so I leave mine hanging in the sun for day or two. I still need to finish painting the front fork and put it back together, but I well not have time for a few days to do so, I well post more photos when I get it done.
this is kewl thnx

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