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Step 7Fitting, drilling and tapping the bars.
Now is the time when you are ready for the 1/2" square Aluminum or steel bars 9 1/2" long.
Put them up under where the old nuts were, and you will see where the corner on each end needs to be rounded.
With a file or grinder round the corners so they will fit up against the bottom of the bolt flange and in tight against the sides of the box.
Once they fit, it is time to mark where the holes need to be drilled.
I used a 5/16" transfer punch and tapped it lightly with a small hammer, I could not show tapping it as I needed one hand to take the picture.
I used a drill press to drill my 13/64" holes where the transfer punch had made the marks but you could drill it with a hand drill.
Use a little light oil on your tap to make it easier.
Put them up under where the old nuts were, and you will see where the corner on each end needs to be rounded.
With a file or grinder round the corners so they will fit up against the bottom of the bolt flange and in tight against the sides of the box.
Once they fit, it is time to mark where the holes need to be drilled.
I used a 5/16" transfer punch and tapped it lightly with a small hammer, I could not show tapping it as I needed one hand to take the picture.
I used a drill press to drill my 13/64" holes where the transfer punch had made the marks but you could drill it with a hand drill.
Use a little light oil on your tap to make it easier.
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Jun 6, 2010. 6:04 AMBosun Rick
says:
Why did you use carriage bolts? For the life of me, I can't see how you can tighten them (No machined heads, & shoulders that will eventually sink into the plastic of the box). I would have inverted the carriage bolts, and used nuts on top. Saving the time & effort of fabricating the bars; or you could use angle iron (as a stiffener) with standard nuts epoxied in place.
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1
Jun 6, 2010. 10:55 AMjlsteiner (author)
says:
Rick, I have no idea what you are talking about, where do you think I used carriage blots?? I used hex head bolts very easy to remove, but you can use what ever you want. As for the bars, I used what I had, you can do it your way, it is up to you.
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Jun 6, 2010. 8:36 PMBosun Rick
says:
My Bad, Mr. Steiner, My eyes saw "stove bolts", and my befuddled brain screamed "CARRIAGE BOLTS"! Senility is painless, unless you get caught! I apologize.
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1
Jun 7, 2010. 7:08 PMjlsteiner (author)
says:
No problem, I just did not understand your comment, Oh well you know what they say about what goes first? Now what was it? Have a good day!
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Oct 23, 2008. 3:12 PMcboy2us
says:
HeHe, I would have used a dremel on the old nuts, made some grip on them, and jb-welded them. not quite as pretty, but easier, and quicker.
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1
Oct 23, 2008. 5:01 PMjlsteiner (author)
says:
It might have worked but the first problem was getting the old rusted bolts out. That is why I had to remove the gusset so I could get a vise grips onto the nuts. This was a real easy fix, took less than an hour and it is definitely permanate. I could have wire tied it but I don't trust wire ties to keep it tight enough to keep dirt and dust out. My way is just a suggestion. I am sure there are many ways that haven't even been mentioned.
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Oct 23, 2008. 7:07 PMcboy2us
says:
Very true, and for rusty bolts I recommend aerokroil, I use it on exhaust bolts and nuts, the stuff is kinda expensive, but well worth it, I have seen it loosen rust frozen bolts that I would have broken off by trying after 24hours of soaking in wd-40.
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1
Oct 27, 2008. 5:31 PMjlsteiner (author)
says:
For rusty bolts I recommend JB Blaster, has always worked well for me. Still can't get to the nuts without removing the gussets once the nuts spin in the plastic housing.
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