Step 3: Remove Lock Mechanism From Door.

there is al ot of info out on the web about doing this. Below is a quote from:    http://new.minimania.com/web/SCatagory//DisplayType/Technical%20Information/DisplayID/2519/ArticleV.cfm

Note that I had to loosen the rear window guide. I also would highly reccomend removing the metal flange that holds the outside door lock handle cable. This will make removing the unit much easier.

Door Lock Repair Instructions, as submitted by 'MPayle' in our forums:

Instructions for replacing the door lock actuator on 2002 to 2006 MINIs.

These instructions are written from memory based on having replaced both the passenger and driver side actuators in a 2002 MINI Cooper-S over 7 years of ownership. Pictures are not available as I no longer own that particular car.

Replacing the door lock actuator is necessary when the lock stops properly responding to lock and unlock commands from the remote or dash mounted toggle switch. The same procedure is followed for either door; however the driver side actuator does take a bit more time to install as it has the key lock linkage to also get back in place. The passenger side takes about 1 hour to accomplish and the driver side takes about 1.5 hours. Leave the window rolled UP while doing all work - you need the room! You can get usually away with leaving the battery connected when changing the passenger side actuator;, however, you must disconnect the battery when changing the driver side actuator. The actuators act in a master-slave relationship with the driver side being the master. Disconnecting the battery will allow them to resynchronize when the battery is reconnected.

Tools necessary: #20 Torx driver #30 Torx driver small flat blade screw driver medium flat blade screw driver #2 Phillips head screw driver socket set (metric) flashlight

First, you must remove the door panel and carefully disconnect the speaker connections. The door panel is held in place by 4 torx screws (either #20 or #30) and a series of clips around the perimeter.

Three of the torx screws are in obvious locations: the recesses in the panel. The fourth is hidden behind the small clear/white reflector slightly below the lock button at the back of the door. Use the small blade screw driver to carefully pry up the reflector to remove it from the door and put it aside (where it won't get lost or damaged, so you can re-install it later). Remove all 4 torx screws - keeping track of which holes each one came out of: 3 are identical length, 1 is longer and has to go back into its original location.

Then use the medium flat blade screw driver to carefully pry up the perimeter of the door panel. I start at one of the lower corners and work along the bottom then up each side. The top is held in by spring clips that remain on the window edge of the door - be very careful getting these to pop free of the door panel. To release them, lift out very slightly on the bottom of the panel and then firmly pull the panel away from the frame. DO NOT PULL TOO HARD OR TOO FAR! You just want to pull it away enough to reach behind and disconnect the speaker wire connections: the lower speaker stays on the door panel and the upper speaker (tweeter) stays on the door frame though its cover stays on the door panel! Once the speaker connections are released, set the door panel aside.

The push rod for the manual lock will now be loose from the door panel. It has the black plastic tip on one end and the other inserts into a clip on the actuator. Reach into the door frame and find where the push rod goes through the grommet in the door frame and follow the push rod to the actuator. Pull the end of the push rod out of the actuator and feed it back through the grommet and set aside.

Next, you need to disconnect the electrical connector for the actuator. The connector is on the bottom inside corner of the actuator. It is held in place with spring clips on the sides of the connector. Simply squeeze the sides together and pull the connector down at the same time. Just let the connector drop to the bottom of the door until you need it for reconnecting.

You will easily be able to see the cable for the interior handle. The exterior handle is also a pull cable. Removing the interior handle assembly from the door frame and releasing the cable from the retaining clips will give more flexibility for getting the old actuator out and the new one in. The handle assembly is held in place by 3 phillips head screws (again, note where each screw comes out for re-installing).

You will also see the rear window guide about 1/3 the way from the back of the door. This is held in place by a bolt in the bottom of the door. Make note of exactly where (inside to outside) the bolt head is located before loosening it - DO NOT remove it - only loosen the bolt to allow in/out adjustment of the guide channel (again, to give more room to work inside the back of the door). Next comes loosening and removing the actuator.

Before loosening the 3 #30 torx screws that hold the actuator to the end of the door, use the flashlight to look inside the door and examine how the two cables are attached. You may need to re-use the clip that holds the exterior handle cable. You will nee to release the end of the exterior handle cable from its retaining clips before trying to remove the actuator. YOU WILL BE DOING THIS BY FEEL! While examining the connection with the flashlight, squeeze the outside handle to see the cable function. You will be able to then observe how to get sufficient slack in the cable to free the end from its retaining clip and then free from the white plastic sleeve guide. Be careful to not break the sleeve guide, it gets re-used. The sleeve guide rotates in its bracket and can fall out as you remove the actuator once the cable is free. The cable end is like a nail head and fits through a slot in the bottom tab on the actuator. You pull down on the cable and tilt the end of the cable to flip it out of the tab.

You will still have the interior handle cable attached to the actuator. Its attaching clip on the actuator is under a hinged cover. You will find it easier to remove this cable after you get the actuator loose and out of the door frame enough to open the cover, thus the freeing of the handle assembly and cable from the retaining clips along the door. Observe where the interior handle's cable is routed as you will need to ensure it gets routed the same way with the new actuator. You will be pulling the cable out around the window channel guide, so you will be sliding the interior handle close to the channel guide. Remove the three torx screws that hold the actuator to the door (should be #30). Then jiggle loose the actuator and work it out of the door far enough to open the cover and release the interior handle's cable. This will test your puzzle solving skills as you are in a tight space, working around the window guide channel with a relatively bulky 'L' shaped actuator. You have to snake and rotate it around the guide channel to get it out. Be careful to avoid putting a sharp bend in the handle cable. Pay some attention to how you get it out as inserting the replacement will be similar.

NOTE: if doing the driver side, there is also the control rod for the key lock. This is a rod with a u-joint style hinge near the key lock and a star head at the actuator end. The star fits into a socket in the top of the actuator and will be fairly clear to see when examining with the flashlight before removing the actuator. The star just slides into the fitting in the actuator. Getting the star back into the new actuator makes the driver side job take a bit longer than the passenger side.

Once you have the old actuator past the window guide channel and to the opening in the door frame, you can then open the retaining cover for the interior handle cable and free the cable from the actuator. Try to keep the cable from snapping back into the door Compare the old actuator with the replacement as there are a couple of small brackets you may need to transfer from the old actuator to the new actuator.

At this point one could use the classic phrase from the Haynes manuals: "assembly is the reverse of disassembly", but that would not be completely fair. Much of the re-assembly is the reverse of the above procedure, but there are steps that should be highlighted again anyway.

After transferring any brackets and/or clips necessary from the old actuator to the new actuator, make sure the interior handle cable is still making the "u-turn" around the guide channel and attach the cable to the actuator and secure the retaining cover. You may want to use a small piece of tape to help hold the white plastic clip for the exterior handle cable to its slide bracket. Manipulate the new actuator back into the door frame and past the guide channel. Pull some of the slack in the interior handle cable back outin order to help align the new actuator. As you manipulate the actuator into its position, you will need to ensure the exterior handle cable is not trapped behind the actuator as it needs to come over the top of the actuator to reach its guide clip and retaining clip.

NOTE: If doing the driver side door, you will also need to position the key lock rod into place for the star end to slide into its place in the actuator.

With the actuator in position, start threading one of the three torx screws that hold it to the door. This will hold it in place enough while you reconnect the exterior handle cable. This will again be mostly by feel. You will need to thread the cable into the guide clip then pull it down enough to tilt the end and slip it into the retaining bracket. Then thread the other two torx screws to hold the actuator to the door. Snug the screws down, but not fully tight - just enough to hold it still in place.

Remount the interior handle and its cable to the door frame. Thread the manual lock push rod back through the grommet and insert the end into its clip in the actuator. You should be ready to manually test the lock to be sure the cables are functioning. Use the manual push rod to lock and unlock the door. With the door unlocked, see if the outside handle cable is operating correctly. Use the push rod to lock the door. Pull the interior handle once to see if it unlocks the door. the second pull should then open the door.

If all this is working, fully secure the actuator to the door by tightening the torx screws to "hand tight" (about 14 lb-ft torque). Now reconnect the electrical plug for the actuator and then reconnect the battery. Fully test the actuator with the toggle switch on the dash and the remote control.

If satisfied that all is working, it is time to re-install the door panel. Do not forget to reconnect your speaker! Snap the door panel into place starting with the top, down each side and then along the bottom. Then replace the torx screws in the same locations they came out of. Put the reflector back over the fourth screw. You will also need to reprogram your radio presets and set the time on the clock.
<p>Hey Molecular,</p><p>Got an 04 Mini with a similar but not certain same problem. I can open the passenger door from inside with the handled the button will drop lock but not go up again. I can hear the motor inside the door working. You think its the actuator or some other problem?</p>
<p>THANK YOU! I would never have tried this without your tutorial (with pictures)... and I would never have spend $130 to deal with the fact that the driver's side door would not unlock without the key in the lock. We have dealt with this problem for years! Now the dash button and the remote fob unlock the driver's door. It did take me the better part of 5 hours on a Sunday. I took lots of photos that I would love to share with anyone attempting this. These include the angle you need to position the actuator in to remove it from the door (took me about 10 minutes to figure that one out), and detailed pictures of the actuator and motors during disassembly.</p><p>Tips:</p><p>1) the &quot;compression&quot; washer over the pin is a real b*tch to get off. I used an engraving tool on a dremel to make a small slit in the washer so that I could pry it off. However, the washer actually cracked on the opposite side and was useless. This pin is pretty important for holding the side of the actuator against the bottom, so I had to run out to HomeDepot and pick up a #10 countersunk (flat head) bolt (#10-32 x 1&quot;) and nut to replace the pin/washer.</p><p>2) I tried using shims, but several of the white plastic clips broke (the plastic is very brittle). Turns out it doesn't really matter, the pin and 4 torx screws hold it together very well. </p><p>3) I used a product called Electro-wash by chemtronics, which is a spray for electronics cleaning on the motor. I also used a brass bristle brush, and a round nylon brush on a dremel. Be very careful/gentle when cleaning the commutators (the three copper plates around the shaft of the motor) - at their base is the very fine wiring the leads around the armature of the motor. If you scrape a wire loose the whole motor is toast.</p><p>4) I used a caliper to measure the shaft of the motor (above and below the commutator to determine the hole size to drill for the washers. I believe the two holes I had to drill were 0.1285&quot; (#30 drill) and 0.1015&quot; (#38 drill). It helps to drill the hole first and then cut out the plastic around it. </p><p>5) After you put everything back together, if you plug the actuator back into your car before re-attaching everything to test it, be sure to push down the little button in the corner of the actuator. This tricks the actuator into thinking the car door is closed and will allow the actuator to lock/unlock the mechanism. If you don't push the button, the actuator won't function, and you'll think you put it together wrong and will tear it apart, again. Maybe twice. Ask me how I know.</p><p>6) give yourself plenty of time. I started this around 1pm and finished around 6pm, with a trip to HomeDepot in the middle. I would have been done a half-hour sooner if I didn't have to go out to get the bolt/nut to replace the pin/washer, and another hour sooner if I didn't think I assembled everything wrong when I was testing it and tore-it all apart again. Reassembly went very quickly. </p>
<p>I have followed this tutorial with great results. I am sharing this image that will make putting the actuator together a little easier and a few notes I think might be helpful to others.<br><br>1) The bottom white plastic piece takes a lot of force to get it separated from the latch. Three white pins keep it in place, pry the metal plate to lift it so the pins get out of the holes (step 11 of tutorial). The white plastic clips are not very important, except for the one that is next to switch (top right of step 13 image)<br><br>2)I found the plastic washer to be the problem since in both motors was melted, you can make it out of cardboard and put a dab of motor oil to place it in position and keep it lubed. Clean the motor with contact cleaner, The rotor contacts must also be cleaned with sand paper (1000 grit). There are 3 contacts there and all must have a clean gap between them. There must be no trace there of the melted plastic, this will make the brushes of the motors skip produce sparks and heat the contacts more than normal. Before you assemble the motor, make sure the brushes are not angled in towards the center too much (they should be parallel to each other once the rotor is in), Failing to do this will result in sparks and overheating. When put properly, it will spark during test but after a few turns sparks will be reduce if at all present.<br><br>3)You can test the motors placed on the white bottom piece by connecting the harness. Keep the switch described on step 1 here pressed while testing it. This tells the computer the door is closed. The motor in &quot;horizontal position&quot; (damaged) is the one that moves the unlock pin of the door up. The motor that sits at an angle (shown at the top on step 13 image) works to both lock and unlock. When you press the unlock button on the remote only this motor should spin, if you press the unlock button then both of the motors should spin, only this time the one at an angle will do it in the opposite direction. When everything is assembled both motors should work to lock and unlock since the two switches on the top left of step 13 image will be read. This switches are pressed when turning the key to lock or unlock manually, one reads the key when turned to the left and the other one when turned to the right.<br><br>4)If your motor is plain dead, I found another tutorial that shows a motor that works. The Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125 found on bay for around $9 a pair (make sure to get the 20mm round shaft). I don't know if I am allowed to paste a link here, msg me if needed. Both motors in this actuator are the same, but the worm gear is not. Replacing the motor will require the removal of the gears anyway. When in place, the polarity of one motor is reversed so they turn in the opposite way to each other when needed. Again, replacing the motors will need more actions like cutting the shafts and reinserting the worm gear.</p>
Hi. I can unlock with the key in the door but not with the keyless entry buttons . Is this caused by the door lock actuator?
<p>it can be your key battery. can be replaced. test that first</p>
Well, maybe it is caused by the door lock actuators maybe it is not caused by the door lock actuator. You need to test other variables. Did someone writing instructable comments go for a swim with their key in their pocket?
What are the other variables ? If you dont mind giving me a brief explanation
The keyless entry button only unlocks thr gas tank cap. Also the lock switch on the master control switch doesnt unlock the doors either
The keyless entry button only unlocks thr gas tank cap. Also the lock switch on the master control switch doesnt unlock the doors either
<p>Awesome -- so glad this helped :) </p>
<p>Repair of any part of these reputed cars is too tough and <br>risky.Recently,one of my friend Mini Cooper car electric door lock <br>actuator has the same problem.He gonna tried himself and after 15 days <br>try he finally failed and the door didnt opened again. Then continuing <br>with that is a much problematic situation which is solved by Mini cooper repair Annbour Mini cooper repair Annbour specialist or say highly trained mechanic.They also took<br> less service/repair charge than any other dealers.Finally,he too <br>clearly knew whats? the problem is that.</p>
<p>say what?</p>
What? I have a bit of difficulty understanding what you have said here. <br><br>Follow the instructions and try again? <br><br>Mine still works :)
<p>Thanks for the walk through. I was able to restore the actuator in my 2003 Cooper S.</p>
<p>That is so awesome! And advice for other people doing it? </p>
<p>That is so awesome! And advice for other people doing it? </p>
Hi,I was wondering if you knew why my new to me mini cooper clubman would have an alarm go off all night? I have read allot of things but noticed that the rear door is not locking when I lock it.
<p>You realize this is an instructable about disassembling a door-lock actuator -- right? </p><p>As the guys over at NAM -- <a href="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/" rel="nofollow">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/<br></a>They might be able to help you figure out what is going on. </p>
Yes, I do. And someone had made mention to me that the door lick on the rear swinging door might not be latching and it's making the alarm go off. It isn't. So I thought it might be one thing I could try. And thank you for the link.
Hi! I have exactly the same door lock on my land rover freelander as mini cooper and i want the motor part code or specification of motor such height width .. thanks
<p>Measure it from the photos? <br>or find an ebay seller and ask them to measure it for you. </p><p>Best of luck with the fix! </p>
<p>OK, thanks very much for you answer. I did not see sensors. Now its OK, I saw it on the 13th photo.</p><p>Based on your experience, if i remove the entire the Lock Actuator, to try to repair it within one week in my house (not having a garage), can I still close and open the door manually?</p><p>Does the removal of the locking mechanism will not permit me to close or open the door with the normal key?</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>correct, look at the photos again.</p>
Done it, worked well getting the electrical plug out was difficult as squeezing the clips without being able to see was impossible. But once u drop the unit it's easy. I brought a used replacement from Baverian Auto parts in California $85 and the shipped it up to vancouver saved on BMWs prices took about 2 plus hours to do
<p>Hi everybody. Got an interesting question before approacing to repair my Mini Locking left door.</p><p>One month ago : Not opening function but correctly worked on closing </p><p>Last week. No opening and no closing operation.</p><p>Now, when I open and close manually with the key, the other right door , the fuel security door and the Arrow lights work as normal.</p><p>Question:</p><p>If both motor were broken, how come signal (coming from the same motor while closing or opening manually the door) is able to send signal to the central unit ?</p><p>Sorry for my bad english.</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>look at the photos again. There are sensors that are independent of the motors... The brushes on the motors burn out -- this has nothing to do with the switches that send signals to the head unit. </p><p>based on your question, I don't think this is a good fix for you to attempt - might be too complicated. If you do it - post pictures :) </p>
<p>look at photo in sept 13. upper left hand corner. </p>
Thank you for your instructable, my 2005 mini cooper had the exact problem your door lock had. I have it back together and functioning.
<p>Thanks for the information - very useful. Like you my problem was the unlock motor. when I took it apart to repair it, the commutator surface was a mess with several fused bits on it. I think the problem with these could be the plastic washer at the top melting on to the commutator. The lock/unlock motors look the same but the brass worms are different sizes so these are not interchangeable. I looked for replacement motors but nothing obvious available. Be good if someone could find a source for these. </p>
<p>Thanks so much. I was about to tear into mine anyway since I could either fix it or replace it as Mini says, but mine had the same problem as yours and with a quick cleaning and lube, my 2003 Mini is back in service for an hour of my time. </p><p>You are 100% right about pictures of the springs. Make sure to take a few when you tear it apart. Thank God you had yours up so I can see how the one spring fit back in. Otherwise I'd still be messing with it.</p>
wawoo; look at the cheap plastic end motor they use. exactly like the motors we find in children toys that break easily. I cannot believe car makers go so low to save cost. At least they should have put a full metal body motor for longer life. Thanks to poster, good subject though.
Thanks, you did a realy good instructable. with your help i fix my lock on my 2005 mini. <br>but on my case all 3 coper contact were appart. so i carefuly unsold the wire and put a new one from another small 12 v motor that i use in slot car racing .wen you do that the timing betewen the 3 coper blade is important so refer to small electric motor timing to alling propely with the magnet and carbon brush.
Thanks for the post. I followed your instructions and repaired my 2004 Mini Cooper door lock actuator. I would just say that it is important to note the position of the gears and motors as you are disassembling. I didn't and had to take it apart a second time after it didn't function after the first test. When you are actuating those little motors up and down, you can get lost as to which way it should be. <br> <br>It has been at least 2 months since I repaired mine, and it is still functioning.
It has been about a month and everything is still working well!
Nice! My rear door lock actuators on my Mazda 5 are all but dead, but I was dreading taking them apart. I'm sure all door lock actuators have a lot in common, so I'm sure this will be helpful when I decide to tackle it. <br><br>Where is a good place to buy the little motors, if necessary?
Its been my (limited) experience that generally you can repair most electric motors. As for a replacement - I woudl look to source a motor from another actuator - it is very tight in those cases and hacking one to fit would not be easy. Good luck!

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