Repair a Malfunctioning LCD

Repair a Malfunctioning LCD
This Instructable will show you how to repair a LCD that has dead rows and\or columns using a minimum of time and tools. The example shown here is a small LCD in a cordless telephone, but the same principle can be used in other devices as well.
 
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Step 1Tools Needed

Tools Needed
This fix can be performed using a minimum of tools. You need only the tools necessary to disassemble the device (in this case only one screwdriver was necessary), a hot-air gun (a powerful hair dryer may work), and a pencil eraser.
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82 comments
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Jun 26, 2009. 6:03 PMJellyWoo says:
Will this work with something with a bigger screen? (http://www.franklin.com/estore/dictionary/SCD-1870/)
Jan 15, 2012. 3:02 PMpaulrusu says:
If you are interested in complete professional information on how to repair LCD televisions, please be sure to check out this link: http://unique.octopis.com/LCD_Repair.htm
Jan 3, 2012. 8:54 PMairsnake57 says:
There is an old TI calculator model I really like to keep in my pocket. I have gone through a few that ended up with bad displays. I followed this link and TA DA! I was able to fix 3 out of 3!!!! I am very impressed. Thanks!
Jan 15, 2012. 3:01 PMpaulrusu says:

If you are interested in complete professional information on how to repair LCD televisions, please be sure to check out this link: http://unique.octopis.com/LCD_Repair.htm
Nov 5, 2011. 9:10 PMdonkeytits1 says:
The edge of a household iron also works.

Just used it to repair my Sharp Calculator!
Oct 23, 2011. 10:36 PMsuchasmallworld says:
I tried to repair another phone, unfortunately I broke the connecting ribbon which is same as blakhatt's. Does anyone know where I can buy online or in Toronto, Ontario, Canada area? Thanks in advance.
Oct 19, 2011. 10:32 PMsuchasmallworld says:
I don't have a hot air gun, I used a glue gun instead. I wrapped the glue gun tip with aluminum foil to prevent the glue from flowing out. Then run the glue gun back and forth over the ribbon. It is because I cannot control the temperature of the glue gun, I used the speed of running the glue gun to control the temperature. I started with a faster action and see if the ribbon is "glued" onto the PCB board. If not, then slowed the speed until I found a good speed where the ribbon started to stay on the PCB board. It worked. Thanks for the idea from blakhatt.
Sep 25, 2011. 12:57 PMjmartin40 says:
I used the hex head of a small electronics screwdriver and heated the head with a candle. Obviously the head has to be very smooth. I used the edge of the hex head and ran it down the connector of my calculator. It cools fairly quickly so you have to keep reheating it. It's like using an old fashioned iron you heat in the fireplace.
I filled the screen with 8s and did a calculation to fill all of the display elements. I ran my finger nail along the connection to see which part of the ribbon affected what part of the screen so I knew where to iron each time.
Sep 7, 2011. 6:48 PMfgozulio says:
i hope this works on a CANNON MP41DHII
i got a hole bunch of them and they are broken up abit, mostly buttons and all the lcd screens are busted so i wanted to fix them
Jul 13, 2011. 3:24 PMhugomerlo says:
Hello, I read these steps and I was skeptical about the results. Then I read all your comments and I became thruster. I am glad I tried since I was able to repair two baby LCD monitors. One was corrected 100% and the other about 95%. I had to heat the ribbon four times in order to get these results and I just rubbed as hard as in paper trying to erase a strong mark pencil writing. It is almost as good as new. Thanks for saving my Angel Care LCD Monitors!!
Jun 25, 2011. 10:20 AMpkertt says:
i tried this with a hairdryer on"hi" and it worked great!! you saved buying a new phone due to the un readable display. Thanks for a real handy instructable!!

Apr 29, 2011. 6:06 PMstrange_f says:
I don't know how this works, but it did work. I used a hairdryer, nail file, and screwdriver. The hardest part was getting my old Vtech 2468 apart. It had a hidden screw. It's not 100% like new but a good 95%.

I did have to heat the ribbon up three times to get the 95%. I didn't know how hot to get it or how hard to rub. Each time I would stop and then plug the battery back in to check then unplug and try again. I'm sure four times would have been the ticket.

Awesome instructable.
Apr 23, 2011. 3:10 PMazendejas says:
Did not work for me... I did something wrong... I guess...
Apr 22, 2011. 5:08 AMtheimaginaryduck says:
Just commenting to say I tried this with my electronic dictionary -- the screen was so bad it was pretty much unusable. I read these steps and I was really sceptical, thinking, "There's no way in hell this is going to work for me," but tried it anyway because I didn't want to fork out the money to pay for a new one, if I could help it. The result? Almost as good as new! (There's just one column of pixels which appears blank... damn! But I've had that problem before and it somehow came back on its own, so with any luck it'll sort itself out...) So a million thanks to you for saving my dictionary!!
Mar 22, 2011. 10:18 PMZaphodd says:
Just used this techniqe with an 2line lcd on an HP CP1700 printer. Used the back end of a sharpie to rub down the contacts/cable - worked great!

Thanks.
Jan 28, 2011. 4:36 AMwmackintosh says:
I repaired my printing calculator following your instructions. As the LCD connections are between glass plates I had to exert quite a lot of pressure with the rubber, and get the unit quite hot. After several attempts I succeeded. The liquid did overflow when hot, but it all flowed back. When the alternative is the bin, I thought I would just keep going as the heat and pressure technique is obviously correct. Thank you.
Nov 13, 2010. 1:00 PMsettheraytojerry says:
Thank you very much Blakhatt! I was able to repair the lcd in my cordless phone also, thanks to your useful instructable.
Apr 10, 2010. 10:57 AMValyntyn says:
 Excellent tip!  Armed with this knowledge I successfully completed a repair on my wife's 2003 Weight Watcher calculator.  

Many thanks!
Valyntyn
B.C. Canada
Feb 5, 2010. 10:30 PMsctirvn687 says:
Thanks for posting. Used your idea on a similar phone and It completely fixed the display. I would have got rid of the phone if not for this instructable. I just thought the display went bad.
Jun 22, 2009. 8:47 PMseabeepirate says:
pretty cool. will this approach work on say a microwave LCD or maybe an alarm clock?
Nov 18, 2009. 8:07 AMHycro says:
Depending on the alarm clock...those ones with the red lines that make up the numbers are actually surface mount LEDs, made to look like an LCD.
Jun 25, 2009. 7:51 AMramses says:
yes, but since those are line powered, be extremely careful of capacitors in particular. I wouldn't mess with the microwave because there is a huge cap in there, and you could damage the magnetron/ shielding to the point where it could leak microwaves and give you cataracts and fry all unshielded electronics in the area.
Jun 26, 2009. 1:58 AMSteel_Sculptor says:
maestro8 is quite correct with his reply. The sheilding within a microwave isnt as critical as the scare mongers make out. I remember talking with techs regarding microwaves when they first came out. To test, you would jam the door switch and put your hand in on low power to feel if there was any 'warming'. Obviously they werent as high in power as they are now but it was a quick test that was common practice among original m'wave techs.
Jun 26, 2009. 8:45 AMramses says:
meh. but some people take things apart with drills and hacksaws. about the cap, some go up to .9uf, storing around 1.8 joules at 2kv. while most likely not lethal, it wouldn't be pleasant.
Jun 25, 2009. 5:22 PMFurball_Fidelis says:
Lol. homebrew EMP from a microwave....hmm
Jun 25, 2009. 11:55 AMmaestro8 says:
To what "huge cap" are you referring? Most microwaves have a small (100s of pf) capacitor in the HV stage, but it is often coupled with a parallel resistor that would drain any charge on the cap quite quickly. Even without the resistor, the cap would drain itself in a small fraction of a second, through the resistance of the circuit in which it is connected. Also, the magnetron and shielding isn't as fragile as you're implying. It would take a hacksaw or drill to do the type of damage that would cause microwaves to leak. Even then, the leaked microwaves lose power as they dissipate into the room (remember the inverse-square law?) It would take quite a large leak to damage anything in the vicinity.
Jul 4, 2009. 7:16 PMmrsplooge says:
Actually, it would only take a very small hole, the size of 1/2 wavelength or a multiple thereof to radiate and cause EMI. Hence the term, micro-wave.
Jul 4, 2009. 7:17 PMmrsplooge says:
for a fun read, check out Waveguides.
Oct 26, 2009. 3:10 PMalopix says:
It is really healpful!
I will try it into two philips cordless phones.
Aug 10, 2009. 11:11 AMdgclegg says:
Thanks for the tip! I tried it with a hairdryer, and it worked for 75% of the rows. Perhaps the rest are not fixable by this means.
Jul 23, 2009. 8:35 PMviolent says:
Wow. Cool. Thanks. Helped me with 2 phones:) I was using hairdryer and pushing very hard on the connection place so it worked for me from the second try.
Jul 15, 2009. 1:08 AMrhf027 says:
Very good !
Jun 26, 2009. 10:25 PMleemck says:
I am not clear on what the repair task is doing here. Why are you heating the ribbon cable? And what are you rubbing with the pencil eraser? Do I understand, the end of the flat data cable going into the LCD is finished to form a flat plug. You are using the pencil eraser to clean the flat plug surface? So the problem is to burnish where the cable connects to the LCD? The part about heating the cable is to partly slide the cable out of the LCD to reveal the surface the needs burnishing?
Jul 13, 2009. 9:01 PMgannon12raiders says:
Not exactly. I believe the point here is to push the cable back into its connection, and the glue must be softened for this to happen.
Jun 20, 2009. 2:59 AMthearchitect says:
Excellent instructable, thanks for posting. I didn't know how this could be done without damaging the components. Several times I tried using the soldering iron when it was warm (unplugged), but it didn't help much. Do you or anybody here know what kind of glue they are using to stick ribbon conductors like that? K.
Jul 7, 2009. 10:33 AMhosuninstructables says:
I repaired as instructed. It worked but failed again after about two weeks. I guess the glue was not working any more. hs
Jul 7, 2009. 10:31 AMhosuninstructables says:
I want to know what kind of glue as well. hs
Jul 2, 2009. 5:51 PMkb.bear says:
I think that the point is to press the ribbon on to the ic board and the heat softens the glue so this can be done
Jul 1, 2009. 8:56 PMquazzamuhaha says:
Would it work on a IPod Nano 1st gen?
Jun 30, 2009. 4:00 AMmario59 says:
I tried it and I have to say with lot of discomfort that it doesn't work.
To be true, it tried it on my EL5210 calculator and I've been successful dor about 15 minutes, then I was back home again...
The display shows again the very same row/coloumns blanked.
I tried thwtice this cure and get the very same result.
maybe youthness can be only once in a lifetime?
...well maybe...
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Author:blakhatt