Step 4: Repair the Connections

Using LOW heat (you do not want to melt the ribbon or the solder on the board), slowly heat the ribbon cable where it is connected to the mainboard to soften the glue. At the same time, gently but firmly rub the connection strip with the pencil eraser.
1. Try to avoid directing too much hot air onto the LCD itself as this could damage it.
2. Apply enough heat to melt the glue holding the ribbon connection, but not enough to melt the cable itself.
3. If after the first try the problem is not resolved, try rubbing the connections down with something firmer. I repaired two identical phones using this method, and the second one required that I use the back of a plastic screwdriver to force down the connections.
Thanks for this! I repaired my little HP 6S with a hair dryer and the pencil eraser. Took two times and I really cooked it, but after it cooled down all the segments of the number screen worked.
<p>This is great! It took me a while to fix the display on my sharp calculator, heating with a hair dryer and pressing with a pencil eraser. In the end I tried pushing harder, and it worked. BTW, if your display goes NEGATIVE, you have to flip the polarized plastic display over.</p>
<p>Can this fix be applied to an android phone?</p>
<p>Just repaired my Honeywell CMS921 thermostat display, fully working save &pound;75+ Thanks!</p>
<p>No ribbon strip on my CMS921 just 8 pins that plug into the PCB. Please advise!! :-)</p>
<p>I just got my CM921 to work - so, carefully unplug or remove the lcd unit from the circuit board (8 pins i think) then separate the white board (same size as the lcd) from the back of the lcd display (it was glued on one side and i used a scalpel) the lcd will then flip over and you can see the ribbon, then follow the instructions above, return the lcd back down on top of the little white board as before and plug it back in...</p>
<p>I repaired my dymo pocket. Now works like a charm. Thanks.</p>
<p>Just fixed my Faberware Kitchen Timer ... becareful when using a heat gun, I accidentally melted my cable ribbon just a little, lol.</p>
<p>Worked for me! I used my company's industrial heat gun, so I had to sweep it left and right stopping and starting about seven times - in order to prevent one area from overheating. Between starts and stops, I used a pen cap to press down on the ribbon cable, where it connected to the circuit board.</p>
<p>I made it.I fixed my Nissan Quest LCD display for fuel and tempreture .Thanks for your vedio.</p>
Hey buddy I need to fix my Quest's lcd. Did you use a heat gun or hair dryer?
<p>Thank you very much. It took me about 30 minutes due to a more complex at&amp;t ML17929. I'm still mising 2 top lines, but it was much better than the BLANK display I had previously. Maybe with some more heating and rubbing, it would be 100%. I used a hair dryer on the low heat setting.</p>
<p>I fixed my daughters little bookmark dictionary that wasn't displaying anything. Worked like a charm. Thank you so so much!</p>
<p>I have an atomic clock / indoor thermometer with a large display. There are pads on the little circuit board, but no ribbon cable. Can anyone explain to me how these work? Any repair tips? I really do not understand how the information gets from the pads to the panel.</p>
I WOULD LOVE if it works... I have a Sharp multifunction graphical calculator that has THE VERY SAME display ribbon connector and LCD.... I REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, hope this will work also for me!! I was in eager to find a suitable solution on the net and maybe you did my day! This evening I'll RUSH home and try it! Thanks friend! ciao Mario
calculators arent that expensive , lol
Mine is, and mine is cheaper than some others that I've seen and want. TI 84+SE w00t, my calc rocks!
Beats mine. I got a TI-83+. I want an nSpire.
Don't those have less archive than the 84+SE? The graphics look nice, but I'm used to my 84+SE.
I'm not sure about the complete specs, but the thing that gets me going on them is the ultra high res display.
What is the display? I know the 83+/84+ is 94x62 one bit gray scale, but I don't know the nSpire.
320x240 4-bit grayscale. Pretty impressive for a calculator. It even offers antialiasing. Though they do make full color graphing calculators, but those are a bit out of my price range.
Ti-89 rules them all =:)<br/>
Why not just get a cheap old laptop and install <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.graphcalc.com/,">http://www.graphcalc.com/,</a> then your graphing calculator will have a full querty keyboard, 1024x768x32 res, and wireless intartubes.<br/>
most tests say no calculators with full qwerty, so you would have to use Divoraks or something
How exactly does the 89 rule the nSpire?
oh ok , my bad . you can run java applets on some grahpics calculators , they are just begging to be hacked :)
I haven't seen those... I'm drooling already!!!
If all we did was throw away broken items, never attempting to repair them, then we'd be piling up a lot of trash while wasting a lot of resources and effort. How does a 15 minute repair job compare to the hours required to produce and assemble a new calculator?
He said graphing calculator. A basic one costs around $60, and top of the line ones exceed $500.
<p>Thank you! I've found this old Sharp Scientific calc in the dumpster and it had several blank spots. Was about to throw it out again and decided to give it a shot with your Instructable, and it worked out just fine! Yay!</p>
<p>Brilliant! This works! Thanks!</p>
<p>Thank you! I was able to fix my old GE DECT phone, one of the headsets had the same problem!</p>
Hello<br>I am having trouble of missing segments &amp; symbols of my mitsubishi car central lcd. the lcd is connected to the pcb using 64 pins.when pressing some pins gently the problem will go but the pins are not soldered on the lcd glass so I can resolder, they are just clamping on the glass screen. This setup is rare I cant find info about how to fix this.<br>Help me please.
<p>Has anyone done this with a TI-83+ graphing calculator or similar? I'm not sure which cable/part of the cable is likely not making contact? I'm missing a row of pixels. Any thoughts?</p>
<p>ps: I've tried a couple places but I'm not sure where is most likely and I'm afraid to be too aggressive with the heat gun until I'm certain.</p>
Thank you so much!!!!! I fixed my Angelcare ac 401 monitor. Thought it's dead for ever, but now it is working! !!
<p>Very helpful, I fixed my kill a watts P4480, will try fix my 2001 Audi A4 dashboard center LCD display panel. </p>
<p>Im struggling with a Casio fx85gt. If anyone can help me, Im at the ribbon stage. If you can help me please reply! Or at least guide me.</p>
<p>Im struggling with a Casio fx85gt. If anyone can help me, Im at the ribbon stage. If you can help me please reply! Or at least guide me.</p>
<p>Excellent method !!! I recently repaired my trusty CASIO fx-911Z calculator. Tools used &ndash; hair dryer. Probably the proper (not too high) temperature is the key, not the pressure itself. My LCD started working properly some time after the heating took place. Probably the adhesive set again properly. Kudoz to you !</p>
<p>Thanks! I was able to repair a &quot;Kill-A-Watt&quot;&quot;P4480&quot; power meter that had lost all of it's digits on the LCD display (just a few &quot;ghost&quot; segments). Applied heat from heat gun &amp; rubbed down the ribbon where it attaches to the PC board with pencil eraser &amp; the edge of wood nail file. This meter has lots of screws to remove to get the circuit boards loose but was worth the effort...a replacement is $45. or so. </p>
Your the best mate. It worked perfect
<p>Thanks maan. I was thinking of doing this on a TV. Other TV repair people only put some rubber padding thing. When putting the LCD frame back on the rubber padding will press against the tabs. Today was my first LCD repair I did so I did with what tips I know and was going to try the heat gun thing next.</p>
<p>Thanks!! I fixed the lcd screen on my Panasonic land-line phone. The lcd was unreadable and now it is functional. The third row of text is missing a bit off the top but it's readable. The lcd is glued directly on top of a small pcb board so I used a hair dryer on the back of the board and then pressed the two together. It took multiple times and I had the hair dryer nozzle pressed right up against the back of the pcb board, moving it from spot to spot repeatedly and then pressing on either side of the board/screen. Had to put on a pair of gloves, though. It heats up quite a bit. </p>

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