I became interested in reading the old book "Moby Dick" because of a radio program where they discussed the qualities of the story. But when I went to all the bookstores, they only had drab dreary NEW copies of the book. They had NO pictures... and NO "character." When I held the new book in my hand, I didn't even WANT to read it. So I searched EBAY for an old copy and it is a WONDERFULL book! It has PICTURES... it is almost 100 years old!... and it has lots of character! but it needed repair. So I bought it for $12.00 and set about the job of re-binding and restoring it.
I have only restored 2 small paperbacks previously... so this was a bit of a challenge for me. I don't claim to be a professional book-binder. That was not my goal. I wanted to accomplish 2 things: 1... get this book back into usable condition.. and 2... Improve my bookbinding skills. If you have never done this before, i suggest you start with a paperback book that is not an expensive treasure. So lets get started with the items you will need....
I have only restored 2 small paperbacks previously... so this was a bit of a challenge for me. I don't claim to be a professional book-binder. That was not my goal. I wanted to accomplish 2 things: 1... get this book back into usable condition.. and 2... Improve my bookbinding skills. If you have never done this before, i suggest you start with a paperback book that is not an expensive treasure. So lets get started with the items you will need....
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You will need a few common items to fix your book. I used some GIANT "C" clamps. They worked ok but I believe a smaller set of clamps would work better. Next time I do this, I will try some "squeeze" clamps that look like large clips. As long as they are big enough to hold the book, they should work. I used some heavy duty thread and large needle. Anything that is strong would work ok Kite string or upholstery thread would work ok. But dont use regular THREAD. It is too thin for this purpose. I purchased PVA glue. PVA is Poly-Vinyl-Acetate. It is a glue SIMILAR to white "Elmers" glue. It is a higher quality glue though that has more FLEXIBILITY and more TACKYNESS and is ACID FREE to protect the books paper. Do not substitute other glues because you must use a glue that is FLEXIBLE and very tacky. You will need a couple THIN wood slats like the one laying on the top of the book. This will be used as a DRILLING helper. Scissors and an electric drill motor with small drill bit (1/8th inch) are also needed. ALSO needed but not pictured is some vinyl upholstery cloth. I bought the CHEAPEST kind because it was thinner and more flexible. You could also use any old heavy duty cloth material that you think would look good on the book. Also, i used a small piece of BURLAP material because of its loose weave would help hold the glue.
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Thank you for your input. I'll continue to research and weigh my options.
Appreciate your feedback on this matter.
Alyx.
As a book conservation professional (I work in a library conservation dept.), I admire your desire to repair books in order to make them readable again. That said, I'm very disturbed by your instructable because your method will not improve the longevity of your book which could have been salvaged with some basic understanding of book anatomy and some familiarity with basic book binding techniques. Let me walk you through this.
1) I can see from you photos that this book was signature sewn. The technique that you employed is called "stab-sewing." This method, while employed for many years by libraries has fallen out of favor because a weak spot develops in the gutter where the page folds back and forth. When this happens, the page has the potential to crack at the joint and fall out, leaving you with no margin to repair it in the future (not to mention the giant holes you have drilled through the paper for the stitching).
2) You also mention that your book had a round spine and not a square. Books are designed to have this structure. The round reduces the effect of swelling caused by the thickness of the sewing threads. If it were flat, it would make a wedge shape.
3) The loose crud on the spine is the old animal hide glue and a fabric called mull or super. This can be easily cleaned off with a substance called methyl cellulose in order to prep the book for new reversible paste (not PVA), liner paper and mull.
4) By adding PVA glue to the spine, you have permanently modified this item. PVA is irreversible, and you will never be able to remove it without destroying the spine of the book. One of the principles of book conservation is reversibility - we don't do anything to a book that can't be undone. Wheat or rice paste would have been a reversible option.
5) It looks like you had a nice old cover with decorative endsheets that could have been reused with some minor repair to the spine. Instead, you permanently covered it with the blue material, never to be seen again. Also, endsheet paper will adhere just fine to book board - there is no need to line the inside with burlap. If you look at the structure of signature sewn books, you will see that the book block spine is not glued to anything - the mull and endsheets are what connect the book block to the cover.
6) Your thoughts about the gold spray paint are correct - I'm sure the paint will discolor the pages over time (maybe not even that much time). Same goes for the liquid nails - your picture will start to acquire a sickly yellow hue over the years.
I realize that while this book was old, it was not particularly valuable. I'm not one of those folks who thinks that every book is sacred. However, I see a lot of books at my place of work that someone tried to repair 10-20 years ago that instead they ruined permanently. Let me point you to some resources that will help you learn about book repair.
Dartmouth has a great Simple Book Repair Manual. It details some simple procedures you can do on your own.
AIC, the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works, has a nice leaflet on how to care for your books. More about storage than repair, this website also has links to resources to help you find a professional conservator when you need work done to an especially valuable item.
There are also some good books out there that I can recommend to learn more about book-binding.
Hand Bookbinding by Aldren Watson
In-House Binding & Repair by Sharon McQueen
The two of these together will get you started on the concepts of bookbinding and book repair.
It is clear to me that you really love books and were trying to do your best to put your book back into usable condition. I hope you take some time to educate yourself on the proper ways to go about this. Good luck!
Binding with ribbon works. In fact, I often use 1/8" synthetic ribbon, when binding sketchbooks with leather covers. The fact that the ribbon can roll into a thread shape, for threading the pages, but still lay flat, when wrapping around the edge, makes for a smoother outer cover(sometimes thick cording, and thin covers leave visible ridges).
Careful construction negates the need for it, but if you are working quickly, it may be worth trying.
Another EXCELLENT use for Ribbon binding is for collimating loose-leaf pages. I haven't done much of that lately, but back before computers and printers were so common, People used to type on typewriters. Back then, I had many occasions to bind small manuscripts or D&D modules together for friends. Ribbon worked better than thread, since it distributed the force over more of the page edge. You could bind the pages without as much worry of the bound edge fraying.
I always wonder about restoring old things. The recurring question for me is, does restoration improve or diminish the value of the object in question? Obviously, the restored book is much more usable and pleasant to look at, so it's value to you is greatly improved. (Plus you get the satisfaction of having created a good Instructable. :)
I wonder if there are any bibliophiles out there who could comment on how to tell which books are okay to restore, and which are better left untouched?
http://www.unesco.org/webworld/ramp/html/r8816e/r8816e07.htm
That depends entirely on the book.
If it's a book just for reading, then, as you said, the value goes way up when restored.
Original ancient manuscripts, signed first editions, etc... Somewhat diminished to completely de-valued.
Personal Books(sketch books, diaries, etc)... devalue/upvalue depends on personal preference. Personally, I like my sketch books(bought at the store for $3-5 a piece) much better after I re-cover them with either carved panels, or cloth(plain or painted).
Any book that you even think should be appraised... leave it as is. Or, if something must be done, act to PRESERVE, not 'restore'.
If the book is easily replaced... fix away.
If it's over 100 years old, see "appraised books".
If the appraiser says "it's worth naught" then feel free to re-skin :-)
If it happens to be one of those technical books that seem to breed on my book shelf, then I restore or preserve based on if I have a 'work copy' or not. Such as my
1920's Machinery's Handbook which get's 'preserved' status, since I also have a 27th edition copy of recent vintage(and a 8th, and a 16th, and a 23rd. every single one a hand-me-down from some machinist or engineer or family member). All other copies of said book get "restored status". My 27th edition even got a sheet brass cover, due to all the abuse it normally sustains.
My copy of "Swiss Family Robinson" that I was given as a child... it's on it's third cover. Signed first edition of "Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy" will never even leave it's plastic sleeve.
I know, it's a long explination for the simple question of "how to tell which books are okay to restore?". but that can't be helped.