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I have a Logitech wireless laser mouse and after a year or so of use, the left click button would double click every time I tried to single click something. As can be imagined, this gets frustrating very fast. So, being the tinkerer that I am, I decided to open her up and see if it could be repaired. Sure enough, It's a pretty simple fix, if you have some common tools and a teaspoon (edit:a tablespoon) of patience. There are some very small parts involved, so you will want to make sure you ware working in a well lit, clean environment so that any parts that are dropped can be easily found. I have now performed this fix for the third time and decided to take pictures this time to share with others who may find this useful. Each time the repair lasts about 6 months to a year before needing to be redone. I imagine at some point the piece causing the problem will break, at which time the mouse will need to be replaced (unless you're determined enough to try and source parts). Good luck with your repair, I hope this helps.

EDIT: There are quite a few comments about the difficulty of step 8. I would advise that you read through some of the comments for various approaches to completing that part of the repair.

Step 1: remove batteries

If you are working on a wireless mouse, you will want to first open the battery cover, and remove the batteries from the mouse.
<p>Thank you very much. It took me around 15 mins to complete the fix (on a second attempt).</p><p>Actually <br> you just need to increase the strength of the curved part (the spring), <br> so you can use a steel rule or whatever to slightly flatten the curved <br>spring, then put it back on the contacts.</p><p>After you flattened the spring, it will be harder for you to put it back on the tiny switch.<br>I don't have tweezers with me, I used a pair of nose pliers to put the spring back in place. My mouse is like new again.</p>
I cant believe it worked. After some yelling and time I finally got the damn copper piece into place. THANKS!
Hi, thank you very much for the great tutorial - I've tried it and my mouse is working fine. May I suggest that for step 8: Reinstall tension spring, you (1) place the curved tab (which is in the middle of the spring) at an angle on the tiny ledge of the metal piece on the mechanism first, then (2) hook the spring onto the front part of the mechanism, before finally (3) sliding the spring beneath the rear part of the mechanism? <br> <br>I did not have much luck with the original action series of 2-1-3 until I tried 1-2-3 and the whole spring just slid into place while pivoting on the middle curved tab. <br> <br>Hope this helps. And once again, thank you!
<p>frEmn thanks much for a clear and concise instructable. my mouse wasn't a <br>Logitech product. it was a Rocketfish which is the Best Buy store brand.<br> and the small size of the switch surprised me a little even though i <br>had opened the mouse once before, but not for this reason. i had dropped<br> it into water. and i was drying it out. all went well. about the <br>switch, for me the toughest part was removing the brass spring without <br>destroying it (whew!!!). and then after bending it into shape it took me<br> about 10 tries and about 20 minutes to get the spring back into place. thanks again.</p>
<p>One trick: Use masking tape to hold the white button cap onto the switch<br> housing so it doesn't fall out when you disassemble it.</p><p>I just did this repair on my Logitech MX1100 that is now 6 years old. Took some practice but now I've got the hang of reassembling the microswitches and could probably do the entire mouse again in 5 minutes. In addition to retensioning the spring I scraped the contact surfaces to remove oxidation. The switches seem like a common point of failure, and are readily available online and easy to solder. </p>
<p>Most of my time was spent reading advice on step 8. Below are photo's from other contributors that I found useful. csheng1 said:</p><blockquote>May I suggest that for step 8: Reinstall tension spring, you (2) place the curved tab (which is in the middle of the spring) at an angle on the tiny ledge of the metal piece on the mechanism first, then (3) hook the spring onto the front part of the mechanism, before finally (1) sliding the spring beneath the rear part of the mechanism? <br>I did not have much luck with the original action series of 3-2-1 until I tried 2-3-1 and the whole spring just slid into place while pivoting on the middle curved tab.<br></blockquote><p>In my case 1-2-3 worked. <br><br></p>
<p>Thank you! I have 2 logitech mice and BOTH have started having this problem. I might replace the switch if I can find or build a better one that lasts longer. At any rate, once the mice die for good, no more cheaply made logitechs for me. One year then broken is designed obsolescence. I won't be supporting a company that does things like this.</p>
<p>To find a good quality microswitch, look for a mouse that is 10+ years old and take one out if that. I have an old Logitech trackball from the late 90's. Not only does it still work, it has never had a double click issue. Nor did any of the optical track balls I purchased prior to 2002.</p><p>I don't have the equipment to do it, but I wonder what would happen if someone took the copper spring, cleaned it with alcohol real good and then gold plated it?</p><p>Come to think of it. putting dialectic grease where the points connect may be just as good a solution as it would prevent oxidation.</p>
<p>Brilliant instructions, mouse fixed after 30 minutes! made up!</p><p>I still wince when I close an email in case Outlook (work), gets closed, I've been scarred by the double click issue! hahaha</p>
<p>If you want to try a <em>software</em> solution before breaking out the toolkit, try <a href="https://clickfix.cf" rel="nofollow">ClickFix</a> . I designed ClickFix to solve this exact problem.</p><p>If problems with antivirus arise, please see the notice on <a href="https://github.com/cemrajc/clickfix/blob/master/WARNING.md" rel="nofollow">false positives</a>. Do note that ClickFix is open source :)</p>
<p>I have done it and everything is working well now. Thanks a lot!</p>
<p>Awesome!! Great stuff. Save a me a tiny sum to go get another mouse. Thanks a lot.</p>
<p>Oh wow, thanks for the instructions. I tried to not yelling at midnight while installing the damn spring lol.</p><p>My mouse is Toshiba U20. The curved part of original spring was snapped at first attempt to repair it (before I found your instruction. Basically it was a blind repair lol). </p><p>After I read your instruction, I remember that I have another broken mouse, so I decided to repair it again... and it works! It was hard to install the spring especially if there is a very little space available (the pic is not mine, but it's the same Toshiba U20)</p>
<p>Old Logitech Mouse (10 year old!) repaired in 30'. Thank you!</p>
<p>The double click was bugging me big te and this fix did it! </p><p>Step 8 to many many tries though. I finally got that piece in place by holding the left end steady with my thumb and adjusting the piece with a set of pincers. </p><p>A THOUSAND TIMES THANKS! </p>
<p>Why does view all steps not work? it just refreshes the page</p>
<p>I did the same on my 4 year old Performance MX and it worked.</p><p>Actually 2 years ago I had the same issue and I fixed it by adding a thin layer of adhesive tape between the plastic button and the micro-switch.</p>
<p>Thanks for great manual. 5 years old mice received 2nd life. In step 6 instead of flat head screwdriver I found very convenient to use pin or needle to leverage the front part of black box with white tiny button.</p>
<p>Awesome! Works.<br>I did however first place the spring part under the ledge first, then made sure the spring was in place, and then retracted it to the front.</p>
<p>Thank you for the most excellent instruction!!! I have the exact same mouse that has recently encountered the exact same problem. Normally I wouldn't bother and just toss the mouse since it's served me well for years already, but I figured I could spend 15 minutes on it. It took me more like 30 because of that dang Step 8. You instruction was about as good as possible, but there still is a certain knack to reassembling those tiny pieces that you have to learn. Hopefully, I will remember the next time it happens. </p><p>I took the opportunity to clear out all the dust balls as well. Now the mouse works like new. Thanks again.</p>
<p>Saved my G602! Only took about an hour, tweezers were really useful. Ordered some Omrons just in case even though this seems to have fixed it. Man double clicks can really destroy your sanity...</p>
<p>Took me 3 hours on step 8, finally bent the tension spring in tension and threw the mouse away...</p>
<p>ya dont try this at home... only try this at home if you want suicidal thoughts, step 8 took me about 2 hours of trying and i think i broke the thing but i broke it in a way where it works , its like crushed in..... never again will i try to fix my mouse if it double clicks , the guide is not bad, but doing it is, point.... DON'T TRY</p>
<p>Saved a $5 mouse.</p><p>The mechanism cover, from steps 5 and 6, was placed on this board in such a way that only one side was available. I had to lift the only exposed side, then push a small stiff wire through the mechanism box against the far side in order to safely open it. It was like a jack-in-the-box.</p><p>Thanks for the simple and fun instructions.</p>
<p>I have found a much easier solution to this problem. Just put a small piece of paper in the space between the mouse button and the mouse. This will fix the problem to quite an extent and is a much easier solution. Albeit it may not work for all mouses</p>
<p>I can't believe it but I was able to do it!!! Saved a $80 mouse! These instructions and comments are great! Thanks so much!</p>
<p>The idea is to keep the same pin angle, but flattening the curve so the pin is slightly longer. This is what will increase the tension. Also once you know the trick for putting the spring back, it's really fast. First one took 30 minutes to figure out, second one took 1 minute. I've drawn the steps because it might be clearer than having the real pictures, focusing on the important parts</p>
<p>The drawing helped me alot dude, thanks for taking your time to do this. At first it took me like idk 40min to figure out how to put the copper thing back in plase, but after I saw your drawing it took me like 10 min to get finished. Thanks again! :D</p>
<p>Your drawing help a lot !</p><p>Thanks a lot and have a nice day!</p>
<p>Thanks for the diagram! You're the only person who was smart enough to draw a simple diagram. Putting the copper piece back in is really a two-step process.</p><p>The second step that I missed, is pushing the curve straight down until it clicks into place.</p>
<p>I am using the Gila GX mouse <a href="http://www.geniusnet.com/Genius/wSite/ct?xItem=55373&ctNode=3605" rel="nofollow">http://www.geniusnet.com/Genius/wSite/ct?xItem=553...</a> and I did all the steps without problems but now the mouse isn't working. <br>When I plug it into the pc, the lights blink once for few milliseconds. So it does know that it is plugged in, but when I click/move the mouse, it doesn't do anything. <br>I'm pretty sure I haven't damaged any internals and I've reinstalled my drivers. I've also restarted the pc a few times but the mouse is still not working.<br>Does someone know what the problem is?</p>
<p>That resolve one of my problem with my Logitech G700!</p><p>&quot;Step 8: reinstall tension spring&quot;</p><p>WOW !</p><p>You are surely not one of the more miser guys (like Bill Gates) on this planet) to teach us free!</p><p>Thanks a lot and have a nice day !!!!</p>
<p>Do people really not know what a microswitch is? Why does everyone call it a &quot;click&quot;? I guarantee you that if you tell someone in an electronics place that you want to buy a &quot;click&quot;, they'll look at you like you're nuts.</p><p>As for the tutorial itself: I find that when my mouse starts double-clicking, the solution is usually to clean the contacts in the microswitch. The spring is usually fine and after cleaning the contact points with a Q-Tip soaked in alcohol, it works great for 6-12 months.</p>
<p>Well, this is Instructables. If you want more in depth and nit-picking analysis, I'd recommend hackaday.</p>
<p>Just awesome! Fixed the annoyance that I've been having since months!!</p><p>Thanks :)</p>
<p>Big thanks. Took me 5 minutes and it was fixed.</p>
<p>Thanks fixed my mouse after about 20mins the clicking sounds gone but atleast it doesn't double click when i single again</p>
<p>Thank you so much!! You saved my life, LOL!! </p><p>It really works. You are genius!! Be happy and keep helping others by give such helpful solutions!!</p>
<p>Here are two very close up pictures I had from my Intellimouse Optical USB. They are very similar to the ones all of you have shown. Hope this helps someone to see it close up.</p>
<p>I actually ended up swapping the switch with another one from my other Intellimouse Optical that wasn't working for a different reason.</p>
<p>Thanks for nice document. I tried repair my Logitech G700 by following this instruction and it seems to be working better than before.</p><p>During fixing it I felt that OMRON's click mechanism is not perfect and there should be more safe way to give a tension to the left click button...</p>
<p>Thanx a lot :)</p>
Thanks for this. My m570 made it so I had to remove a tiny circuit board to get to the left click box. It's like they don't want you to fix things!
<p>Thanks so much. Works really well now. Have a nice and firm click to it. I had to open the right click button also to have a reference of how it should look. easy useful fix</p>
<p>Just replaced the clicker with one from an old a4tech mouse. Works great. Get a desoldering iron if you haven't already.</p>
<p>Created an account just to thank you. It was a meticulous process but your instructions helped a lot in fixing my mouse. More than saving money it was a great experience, especially since I love DIY stuff with electronics. Thanks once again. :)</p>
<p>I have a G700S and found by taking the batteries out and clicking both (left &amp; right) over and over for about thirty seconds it went back to working again (no double-triple clicking) seems the capacitors need to be discharged....it surprised me that it did work....thought I'd have to take it apart and re-bend the copper contact.</p>
<p>I just wanted to say thank you, it took me a good 45 minutes of taking it apart and putting it back together again to get it right. But I still really appreciate it!</p>
<p>It worked !</p><p>Most difficult part was inserting that white button.</p>
<p>It worked !</p><p>Most difficult part was inserting that white button.</p>

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