I have a Logitech wireless laser mouse and after a year or so of use, the left click button would double click every time I tried to single click something. As can be imagined, this gets frustrating very fast. So, being the tinkerer that I am, I decided to open her up and see if it could be repaired. Sure enough, It's a pretty simple fix, if you have some common tools and a teaspoon of patience. There are some very small parts involved, so you will want to make sure you ware working in a well lit, clean environment so that any parts that are dropped can be easily found. I have now performed this fix for the third time and decided to take pictures this time to share with others who may find this useful. Each time the repair lasts about 6 months to a year before needing to be redone. I imagine at some point the piece causing the problem will break, at which time the mouse will need to be replaced (unless you're determined enough to try and source parts). Good luck with your repair, I hope this helps.
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I've a Logitech V450 Nano Cordless Laser Mouse which started to "double click" after 3 years, and the Logitech Support told me "Unfortunately, we must inform you that your product is defective, as at the moment the manufacturer warranty is already expired, I will not be able to replace the product for you. Unfortunately, there is nothing I can do to help you with your case." So I started googeling without any success, everybody was talking about windows settings, but this was a mechanical issue, and now its working flawless. Thanks again, Best Regards ;)
Also I can keep the broken v550 - might try the procedure when I have some time.
Thank You !!!
One tip on this step. If you don't want to turn the mouse upside down, you can put a piece of clear tape across the top of the click mechanism cover (part that says "omron") so it holds the white button in place. Then even trim the tape so it doesn't stick out too much. Then you can keep the mouse base steady and right side up as you carefully slide the click mechanism cover back on top and snap it in. Then remove the tape. This is the only thing I did differently. Another tip, if you have a digital camera handy is to take a picture of the spring before you remove it so you have a reference. It fits in very delicately and its easy to lose track of the exact position if you don't have a reference. Your pictures are wonderful but its handy to have one specific to your mouse in case it differs slightly. Thanks again!
I identified the problem to be the inner plastic lip that touches the switch. (See my uploaded picture.) After 1000s of clicks, the part of the plastic lip that contacts the switch will erode and have a diagonal dent on it.
The solution: I added a tiny amount of hot glue over the dent and let it dry. I then used a nail clipper to trim the dried glue to make the lip as flat and smooth as possible. I hope you get the idea. You basically just need to patch the dent, and I have found hot glue to do the job just fine.
Nove-Noga!
Took me over an hour to get through it, with most of that time spent trying put it back together. The springy piece of metal keeps flying out if you're not careful. I used a safety-pin to move things into their proper place, using something pointy like a pin made opening the box easier as well. You might have to re-open the box and try again, if you don't get the thing to properly click. I hadn't placed the metal strip in exactly right, and the button was very loose. And that also made clicks sort of "stick" where, when I tested the mouse(by just pressing the white button inside, and not putting the whole thing back together), once clicked, it would stay clicked and I'd have to right-click to release stuff on-screen.
The "bump" in the middle of the metal strip isn't supposed to go over or under, it's supposed to push against the plastic latch in the middle. And rather than just raising the height of that "bump" on the metal, it helps to curve it as well.
It was a little frustrating to work on this, but when it finally does, it works alot better. If I ever do it again, I'll try and take pics, the ones above are good but they're a little out of focus. The middle-click/mouse-wheel click button has a different mechanism, and that freezes up as well, I hope there's a guide out there for that as well.
But before I tried your fix, I found the following post on the Logitech forums -- amid 6 pages of complaints by people having similar issues:
"This problem is due a build up of Electro Static Field (ESF) on the plastic. ESF is most troublesome in very low humidity environments. The internal circuitry design must not be robust enough to handle the gradual build-up of ESF that can occur through use. Can't comment any more on the specifics since I'm a Mechanical Engineer and not an Electrical Engineer.
Blowing air (from your mouth, not a can of air) into the crack under the left mouse button fixes this issue because human breath is very moist. You can also recreate the problem by rubbing a piece of cloth over the left mouse button repeatedly to generate ESF." - Abhishek Shinde
Feeling a little silly, I gave it a try: I blew into my mouse, under the left button. THE PROBLEM INSTANTLY VANISHED. It has not recurred even once in over a week of continual use. (It had been happening about every 5-10 clicks, driving me nuts.) So ESF buildup is apparently the problem in some cases.
So before opening up your mouse, you'd definitely want to try this, because it is so simple.
Might as well pass along my other research. I found someone had created a software fix for a similar problem with a Microsoft mouse: Browse down the site below, and you'll find it. This is untested by me, since the above fix worked for me. I'm just passing it along for someone who might not want to open their mouse, and who gets no result from the "blowing" technique.
http://www.danieljackson.co.uk/fun/old/
I think replacing the broken clicker box with new one is more plausible way or buying new mouse. Because some models are not easy to open the clicker box. Also the hardest part is to put back the spring, I ended up tearing the spring from one of my mouse. So becareful if you want to try this guide.
One little thing I want to share when reinstalling the spring: you have to make sure the spring's curved arm must be hooked into upper concave part of the box, not the bottom part.
See this picture for the illustration:
http://i46.tinypic.com/i795r7.png
I was quite surprised to see this instrucable to show up in my RSS feed and it's nice to know when I get tired of it or when it gets really bad.
Thanks!
I was quite surprised to see this instrucable to show up in my RSS feed and it's nice to know when I get tired of it or when it gets really bad.
Thanks!