Step 2: access screws

On this particular model there are four screws which hold the mouse body together. These screws are located underneath the slide pads on the underside of the mouse. To remove the slide pads, gently pry the edge of the pad up with a small flat head screwdriver and peel it off. They are held in place with some sort of adhesive.
<p>Thank you very much. It took me around 15 mins to complete the fix (on a second attempt).</p><p>Actually <br> you just need to increase the strength of the curved part (the spring), <br> so you can use a steel rule or whatever to slightly flatten the curved <br>spring, then put it back on the contacts.</p><p>After you flattened the spring, it will be harder for you to put it back on the tiny switch.<br>I don't have tweezers with me, I used a pair of nose pliers to put the spring back in place. My mouse is like new again.</p>
I cant believe it worked. After some yelling and time I finally got the damn copper piece into place. THANKS!
Hi, thank you very much for the great tutorial - I've tried it and my mouse is working fine. May I suggest that for step 8: Reinstall tension spring, you (1) place the curved tab (which is in the middle of the spring) at an angle on the tiny ledge of the metal piece on the mechanism first, then (2) hook the spring onto the front part of the mechanism, before finally (3) sliding the spring beneath the rear part of the mechanism? <br> <br>I did not have much luck with the original action series of 2-1-3 until I tried 1-2-3 and the whole spring just slid into place while pivoting on the middle curved tab. <br> <br>Hope this helps. And once again, thank you!
<p>Thanks to this tutorial I have now permanently disabled my 75 euro computer mouse, after about 2h of nothing but rage and salt with only negative results i have decided to leave this comment as a reminder that some of us are not gods, and do not have deathly still hands.</p>
<p>Hello. thank you for the fix. It worked but i have a problem. the clicking is not as crisp anymore, it feels loose if you see what i mean. doesnt feel right . i think i put the click assembly back wrong. if you can help me thatd be great. thanks</p>
<p>Hello. thank you for the fix. It worked but i have a problem. the clicking is not as crisp anymore, it feels loose if you see what i mean. doesnt feel right . i think i put the click assembly back wrong. if you can help me thatd be great. thanks</p>
<p>very good indeed.</p><p>you could also replace the clicker itself using solder + gun.</p><p>Thank you very much!!!</p>
<p>Thank you for making this repair guide.My logitech g300 have this problem after 2 years of use.Both left and right button has the same problem and it take me around 2 hours to do this.All the pain that i have to go through on step 8 really worth it.My mouse works like new again.</p>
<p>It took me about two to three hours (i'm not so good at fine work like this), but it eventually worked! The clips on the switches were on the side instead of the front, The middle mouse switch was in the way so I had to remove and re-solder the left mouse button switch and use a precision knife to lift the plastic off the clips.</p><p>Thanks very much for sharing this solution!</p>
<p>It worked. Very fiddly but rewarding.</p>
<p>hope it works</p>
<p>The idea is to keep the same pin angle, but flattening the curve so the pin is slightly longer. This is what will increase the tension. Also once you know the trick for putting the spring back, it's really fast. First one took 30 minutes to figure out, second one took 1 minute. I've drawn the steps because it might be clearer than having the real pictures, focusing on the important parts</p>
<p>THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!! <br>You made my day! I bought the mouse and I couldn't find the receipt, so the vendor wouldn't change it!! As a gamer that thing really frustrated me!<br><br>But with my mouse the step #6 was a pain!!! the box cover was really different from yours, my screwdriver couldn't lift it!!! I had to heat the edge, then go hard on the plastic to melt it!!! After several minutes of swearing I could remove it... and the copper thing got damaged XD<br>Took 30 minutes to unbend the copper, then I could proceed! (only used some glue to reassemble the black box)<br><br>My mouse now is perfect... Much appreciated</p>
<p>great tutorial! i made it for about 45mins. im having bad time when placing the copper back, made it not straight but it works on my G300.</p>
<p>Yayyyyy!!!!!!!! It worked for me!!!!!!!! except a lot of patience for that small copper thing!!!!!!!</p>
<p>Do not do this if your mouse buttons still have a satisfying click. If they still click good, I believe it is unlikely that this is your problem.</p><p>I'm fairly certain that my problem was a different issue entirely. You might want to take a look at this first in case yours is too: <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/dWJk4EWfyOA" width="500"></iframe></p><p>If you are sure that the mechanical switches are your problem and are determined to proceed with this repair then please read this:</p><p>I completely ruined both my buttons attempting this fix. It took me multiple hours and when I was done the buttons did not even click anymore. I know I mangled one of the metal pieces pretty badly. This is mostly due to my fat fingers and the precision required, making me want to scream the whole time. (I think I kept myself in pretty good control despite this). </p><p>1. The instructions in the OP describing how to add tension to the spring are, in my opinion, misleading. If you look at the pictures you will see that the straighter the spring is the more tension it is going to apply. I didn't realize this till after I had really mangled one, though that was mostly due to the next thing.</p><p>2. If you take one of these off it is really hard to put back on. This is not an exaggeration (though maybe some are easier than others). I applaud the people who say they did it in 10-15 minutes. I am sure I spent the better part of 2 hours. There is a little groove in the vertical metal pin, that the spring end fits against. Now that I know how it works I think it may be easier to put back on with a very small needle-nose or something like this, but considering I haven't had a working switch yet, despite doing this on two different switches, I can't really say can I? I would definitely consider trying the suggestions of adding tension carefully without taking the springs off before I ever considered taking one of these off again, ever. </p>
I'm sorry you had so much trouble. That little tension spring is a pain, as many commentors had affirmed.
<p>Thanks! I fixed this mouse with factory bug :)</p>
<p>Thanks for the instruction. After fix the repaired button can't trigger the click, but with some tape under the bottom of the button, it works like a charm.</p>
<p>Thanks for your repair instruction. However, I find an script that fix this problem if you are lazy to do the repair. I just used it and it worked. Read on:<br>http://www.autohotkey.com/board/topic/34911-stop-double-click-if-too-fast/</p>
<p>Wow! This a great suggestion! I checked out both of the links you provided, noticed a script that seemed appropriate </p><p>[CODE]LButton::<br><br>If (A_TimeSincePriorHotkey &lt; 100) ;hyperclick<br><br>Return<br><br>sendinput {LButton down}<br><br>KeyWait, LButton<br><br>sendinput {LButton up}<br><br>Return[/CODE]</p><p> I downloaded AutoHotkey, spent a few <br>minutes reading the basic help (how to create a script file and execute <br>it), copied and pasted your script into the file I created, saved it and<br> ran it. Boom! Works like a charm!<br><br>As for tinkering with my mouse, I have one working wireless Microsoft mouse and one dead Microsoft mouse and after taking the cover off the dead one, the microswitches seem much more compact than the ones in this Instructable. I gotta say I love this site and love tinkering with hardware (I plan to try out that Thermic Lance but with a proper oxygen hose attachment), but my eyesight isn't what it used to be and my fingers are no longer very dexterous, so I'm thinking this &quot;project&quot; would involve a lot of cursing! And at the end of it, I might have to resort to one of my wired mice(mouses?), a definite step down. </p><p>In any case I just have to leave a rant about the basic problem (a mouse contact that gets &quot;bouncy&quot;). When I <br>finally got pissed enough to google the problem I was experiencing, I <br>was surprised to realize that the basic mouse driver doesn't have any <br>de-bouncing capability! WTF! Bouncing contacts is pretty basic stuff, <br>i.e. quite common for lots of electronics besides mice, yet <br>driver designers haven't figured it out yet? Yikes!</p>
<p>I am sure they are aware of the bouncing problem, or maybe it is planned obsolescence. Watch &quot;the light bulb conspiracy | planned obsolescence&quot; on youtube, and you will see how sad is everything designed not to work after a while, so companies make more money.</p>
<p>Thank you for the instructable . I made it after 20 mins of patience.</p>
<p>I did all this once a few years back. I've had this problem with almost every mouse I've owned in the last 10 years. It seems most brands of mice use the same shabby 'clicky' type of switch. It would probably be better to unsolder this switch from the circuit board and solder in a more reliable switch, even if it's not 'clicky'.</p>
<p>worked like a charm, my middle mouse button was up to between 2-6 clicks per touch, now its like new again!</p>
<p>IT WORKED! YEAH! Now my mouse is 'cured' from its double-clicking disease :-)</p><p>Good grief, you were not kidding when you wrote that Step 8 will be exasperating. Although, on my mouse (Marathon Mouse M705) Step 6 was also very frustrating because there were components half blocking the lower latch edge.</p><p>So, if you're yet to partake in this adventure, please DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE the time needed. And, as frEmn had written, GOOD LIGHTING IS A MUST. I had to augment my office's bright overhead lights with a USB-powered LED &quot;lightstick&quot;.</p>
<p>Thanks to the tip (previous step) about putting some tape over the top of the box before working on it, I had no problem with the white piece. I found prying the rear off first worked better for me first. I was still unable to pry the super tiny front pieces apart, but I found I could instead grab and lift the box straight up and off once the back was pried off and pulled up significantly.</p>
<p>guess I'll be taking my work mouse home :d</p>
<p>Thank you!<br><br>I can't tell you how many Logitech mice I have previously thrown away because of this issue. All top of the range ones too, like &pound;80+</p>
<p>I saw a tip on YouTube where the person placed a piece of tape over the top of the microswitch before removing it. That kept the clicker button in place. Nice, easy trick. :)</p>
<p>I got in ~ 2 hours! it worked! Man the tension spring part was a pain!!</p>
<p>Great ! It solved the &laquo; double &raquo; click problem for my Logitech mouse :)</p>
<p>just wanna add, if you are at work, almost certainly your IT guys will have some scrap mouse lying around. You can also salvage the whole mechanism box from those scrap mouse and replace it with a quick soldering</p>
<p>Great tutorial! I was almost there-- put it back together and everything-- before I wanted to adjust the spring some more and LOST IT. But a new mouse isn't that expensive...</p><p>I have a wired mouse and everything is basically the same, except I only had 2 screws so the shell slipped off at a weird angle and I accidentally broke a latch (not important). The tiny box that you need to pry the latches off is also a little different, but it's straightforward enough if you take the entire motherboard off so no plastic pieces are in the way. I didn't have tweezers with me either, but I was able to balance the tiny button on the flathead of the screwdriver. Alternatively, you can open the latch/box upside down so you never have to deal with the button coming out.</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Worked like a charm. To save some people some sanity, let me say you can add tension to the piece without removing it. Simply stick a toothpick under the curved bit of the tensioner and push up. This will straighten the curve a bit which adds the tension - the same thing you are doing when you remove it and then alter it but without the chance of damaging the part in removal or reinstallation.</p>
Great idea! Thanks for the suggestion.
<p>Did this in 10 minutes tops. Had a hard time reinstalling the copper. Very helpful instructable!</p>
<p>Thanks for the great tip!!! it was kind of difficult to put the very tiny copper tension spring back again on the click mechanism but after that surgical action the mouse works like new. Genius NS6000</p>
<p>Excellent tutorial! It's all close-up and the actual parts were shockingly small :D Reinstalling the spring was a bit tricky, I noticed the tiny ledge in the middle where the spring goes, but I didn't notice there was a tiny ledge in the hook, I was hooking it all wrong...once I figured that out, it was a matter of a few tries. I hope it won't pop out now, the slide pads DO take damage from being removed and put back and the adhesive doesn't adhere like it used to. THANKS for saving my favourite MX Revolution :-) </p>
<p>Works great so far. Lost a screw though, but only took about 10 min.</p>
<p>Yeah when doing this please put your finger over the white button! Unfortunately in my case it was red, and when I was trying to release the small black box, it flew away with the red button (on a carpet and dark wooden floors, at night). It took about 2 minutes for me to find the black box, but after almost 10 minutes looking for the small button I gave up. After a few seconds looking at the mouse, I figured I'd use the button from the scroll wheel click, which I don't really use at all. This time, I put my finger over the box and got it off without either of them flying away. But, when I went to put the red button in the other black box, it accidentally fell too. So this time I searched for about 15 minutes and gave up again. Thank god it's a laptop. I guess tomorrow I'll sweep the floor and hopefully it'll show up!</p>
<p>Did this operation in about 10 minutes on my logitech g500 gaming mouse. I am an IT Expert though.</p>
<p>It works! Thank you so much for this tutorial :)</p>
<p>Thanks to you I saved ~$60 towards a new gaming mouse. The only difference is that mine had a groove instead of a hook. I had to slot the back bent piece in first and then the front. Also if someone does this again then do it in the middle of a big table. You'd be surprised how far the tiny pieces (especially the small bit of plastic on the switch) can fly and bounce even on carpet.</p>
<p>It is a great article for me. I repair monitor,smps, mouse,tv etc but i never repaired this switch, i just replaced it. Now i can repair the switch also. I repaired my mouse switch and it is working like a new mouse. Thanks for the tip.</p><p>I need one more help, in usb mouse, it is not detected ( no new hardware found message). Mouse cable is ok, i checked each wire individually, led is lighting but not detecting, Is it a chip problem or something else. Thanks in advance</p>
<p>It's helpful but I just use this instead http://sh.st/lDXry after running it, my mouse doesn't double click anymore. But thanks for this, I'll do this and if it's still double clicks I'd just use the tool</p>

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