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Step 9: Reassemble the Click Mechanism and Test

Next, you will need to reassemble the click mechanism. First reinstall the tiny white button into the mechanism cover (you did remember to find and set aside the tiny button right?).  The easiest way to do this is by dropping or placing it into the cover with a pair of tweezers. With one hand, pick up the cover  while keeping it upside down so the button stays in place. With the other hand, pick up the mouse body, turn it upside down, and push the cover back into place. Doing it this way will insure that the tiny white button stays in place while the mechanism is put back together.

At this point, before reassembling the mouse, set it down on the table, and give the tiny white button a few test clicks. You should notice that it is making a crisp click sound when pressed, and that it now springs back with more force than it did before. If you are not hearing and feeling a difference, you may need to open the mechanism back up and try retentioning the spring again.

If all seems well, than go ahead and put the mouse top back in place, reinstall the 4 main screws, and put the slide pads back in place. If there is not enough adhesive left to keep the slide pads on, you can add some more. Regular elmers glue stick has worked for me, or a dab of superglue would certainly do the trick.

Thanks for reading. I hope you now have a mouse that clicks properly.
<p>Thank you very much. It took me around 15 mins to complete the fix (on a second attempt).</p><p>Actually <br> you just need to increase the strength of the curved part (the spring), <br> so you can use a steel rule or whatever to slightly flatten the curved <br>spring, then put it back on the contacts.</p><p>After you flattened the spring, it will be harder for you to put it back on the tiny switch.<br>I don't have tweezers with me, I used a pair of nose pliers to put the spring back in place. My mouse is like new again.</p>
I cant believe it worked. After some yelling and time I finally got the damn copper piece into place. THANKS!
Hi, thank you very much for the great tutorial - I've tried it and my mouse is working fine. May I suggest that for step 8: Reinstall tension spring, you (1) place the curved tab (which is in the middle of the spring) at an angle on the tiny ledge of the metal piece on the mechanism first, then (2) hook the spring onto the front part of the mechanism, before finally (3) sliding the spring beneath the rear part of the mechanism? <br> <br>I did not have much luck with the original action series of 2-1-3 until I tried 1-2-3 and the whole spring just slid into place while pivoting on the middle curved tab. <br> <br>Hope this helps. And once again, thank you!
<p>The idea is to keep the same pin angle, but flattening the curve so the pin is slightly longer. This is what will increase the tension. Also once you know the trick for putting the spring back, it's really fast. First one took 30 minutes to figure out, second one took 1 minute. I've drawn the steps because it might be clearer than having the real pictures, focusing on the important parts</p>
Awesome! Thanks for sharing your graphic, as I can see it's helped many people.
<p>THanks a lot, your note helped me significatly.</p>
<p>Thanks! great illustrations!</p>
<p>The drawing helped me alot dude, thanks for taking your time to do this. At first it took me like idk 40min to figure out how to put the copper thing back in plase, but after I saw your drawing it took me like 10 min to get finished. Thanks again! :D</p>
<p>Your drawing help a lot !</p><p>Thanks a lot and have a nice day!</p>
<p>Thanks for the diagram! You're the only person who was smart enough to draw a simple diagram. Putting the copper piece back in is really a two-step process.</p><p>The second step that I missed, is pushing the curve straight down until it clicks into place.</p>
<p>I gave up on this after two hours trying to put this thing back in place. How could you have the switch with this curve considering the photo from the previous step?</p>
I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. The copper piece needs to hold enough tension to keep the contacts from touching when not being pressed.
<p>It worked for me, but I may have damaged the little copper spring. It's very tricky (as mentioned) to fit it back into the mechanism. And very easy to destroy the spring in the process. I may have extended the life of my mouse for a while longer, but possibly not for too long.</p>
<p>Awesome tutorial, thanks a lot! This allowed me to save my G9x which I really didn't want to throw away (haven't found a better mouse since)!</p><p><br>For the spring part, I detached the board from the mice, and holding it vertically so that you can have the spring hanging on the hook, with the index blocking it from the top, that was the method that worked best for me.</p><p>Cheers!</p>
<p>Awesome ! I dont have tweezer. Soo im using chopstick instead.</p><p>Thank you!</p>
<p>Saved me a new mouse!</p><p>AlexandreP11 image did help for Step 8.</p><p> Thanks!</p>
<p>This really worked, i knew there has to be a way to fix this but wasn't sure how thanks alot!</p>
<p>Great tutorial</p><p>I have a Logitech M705 mouse, which is really great one despite the double click problem that occurred after 3 years of hard work. I followed your tutorial step by step, I faced two problems, one at step 6, until I opened the plastic box, and in the patience test step #8 until I read the comment of <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/AlexandreP11" style="">AlexandreP11</a> (Many to thanks to him too) that helped me finishing it.</p><p>I used a mobile app as a magnifier to see the tiny components. :-)</p><p>Attached the pictures of my trial.</p>
<p>Thank you so much ! You are a genius ! This double click problem was driving me mad !</p><p>I own a Logitech M-UR55A optical mouse with this very annoying problem.</p><p>It took me quite a while to put the spring back correctly but I eventually succeeded.</p><p>I would suggest to take close picture of the spring before taking it apart and also to use a very magnifying glass to do the trick !</p><p>Thanks a lot</p><p>Christophe (France)</p><p>It took time to fix it (especially the spring part) but I eventually did it !</p>
<p>I simply bought a new micro switch for 1,-&euro; and soldered it in. No need to do it again after 6 months I suppose.</p>
<p>Signed up for Instructables just so I could thank you! My M705 has been double clicking and hold clicking badly for weeks and I've put up with it because I can't afford 70$ for a new one right now. I finally got fed up (video games are near impossible) and Googled. Knowing myself (I have a tendency to break everything I touch, especially delicate things), I decided to test it on an older Logitech mouse I knew also had clicking issues (basically every time I buy a new mouse, it's because the old one had clicking issues.. So I can't wait to never buy a new mouse again, lol!). It was actually super easy using AlexandreP11's guide. The M705 however was much harder to set the spring, but I persevered, and I didn't break anything! I'm on top of the world! THANK YOU!</p>
<p>Wow this helped me too thanks :)</p>
<p>Tried this fix on my 3 y/o Logitech Marathon m705. While it did fix the issue, I don't think the problem was actually the spring tension in my case. What I found was that the spring backstop (the hook on the right side of step 8 picture 2) was bent down, preventing the spring from lifting completely off of the contact underneath. Bent it back up, problem fixed! </p><p>Step 8 sure was a beast, though. I'm severely torn between trying this with my Performance MX or just replacing the switches. </p>
<p>Thank you so much. This issue was driving me crazy for months!!! Only took around 15min for me.</p><p>Step<br> 8 wasn't too complicated. I didn't have any tweezers that weren't bulky<br> so I ended up getting the back clip in place first with my right hand <br>and then kind of laid the spring over the top of its clip (don't press <br>down too hard cause you can undo the tension you just put back into the <br>spring) and then with my left hand I got the front clip in place and <br>held it there with my index finger. I then took a pointed object (ice <br>pick, tiny screw driver) and from the top gently pressed down on the <br>inside rounded part of the spring until it clipped into place (be <br>careful not to push it past it's clip or you'll have to start over.</p><p>Now my mouse is like brand new and I'm glad because the darn thing was $100.</p><p>Thanks again!</p>
<p>Wow...just wow...what a fix!</p><p>This took me about 20 minutes to do, but ohmygosh it actually worked. My mouse feels so new! I only replace my left click, but I'll imagine I'll have to get back in there and do the right-click one too.</p><p>I did run into one problem that I was able to fix. Upon reinstalling the spring (which...oh...took a while), I actually bent the spring too far, and the white button couldn't reach the spring, and it didn't work :(. I had to take the spring off again (nooo!!!!), bend the larger upper part in an upside-down-v shape a little to get the white button to reach, but it worked! After getting the spring back on and the case back on (tape on the button saves lives, you know), wallah, magic, it works.</p><p>I feel so proud for fixing this....haha</p>
<p>I've been having this same problem with my Dell Vostro rig since the time I bought it - the mouse is a wired USB &quot;Dell&quot; branded mouse.</p><p><br>I tried searching for PS/2 mice but found them to be too expensive to be worthwhile. So I looked for USB--&gt;PS/2 converters but none of the 6 pieces I bought off of Amazon worked.<br><br>I'm too lazy / paranoid to open the mouse. So I kept looking for alternate solutions. Even used &quot;ClickFix&quot; and another similar utility for a while - but they're, at best, a compromise.<br><br>Being an Electronics engineer myself, I wracked my brains for a simpler solution - an had a &quot;Eureka&quot; moment!<br><br>Why not use the &quot;right-clicker&quot; which sees much-much lesser use than the left one? All that was needed was to switch the &quot;primary&quot; with the &quot;secondary&quot; button under the &quot;Mouse&quot; setting in Windows 7 control panel and VOILA!<br><br>Of course, you gotta be adept at adapting to the switched buttons - but thats me.<br><br>Hence I post this &quot;solution&quot; here for other lazy nerds like me :)</p>
<p>thanks a lot! Mine is M235 &amp; i follow the instructions clearly &amp; managed to settle the issue! XD</p>
<p>frEmn thanks much for a clear and concise instructable. my mouse wasn't a <br>Logitech product. it was a Rocketfish which is the Best Buy store brand.<br> and the small size of the switch surprised me a little even though i <br>had opened the mouse once before, but not for this reason. i had dropped<br> it into water. and i was drying it out. all went well. about the <br>switch, for me the toughest part was removing the brass spring without <br>destroying it (whew!!!). and then after bending it into shape it took me<br> about 10 tries and about 20 minutes to get the spring back into place. thanks again.</p>
<p>One trick: Use masking tape to hold the white button cap onto the switch<br> housing so it doesn't fall out when you disassemble it.</p><p>I just did this repair on my Logitech MX1100 that is now 6 years old. Took some practice but now I've got the hang of reassembling the microswitches and could probably do the entire mouse again in 5 minutes. In addition to retensioning the spring I scraped the contact surfaces to remove oxidation. The switches seem like a common point of failure, and are readily available online and easy to solder. </p>
<p>Most of my time was spent reading advice on step 8. Below are photo's from other contributors that I found useful. csheng1 said:</p><blockquote>May I suggest that for step 8: Reinstall tension spring, you (2) place the curved tab (which is in the middle of the spring) at an angle on the tiny ledge of the metal piece on the mechanism first, then (3) hook the spring onto the front part of the mechanism, before finally (1) sliding the spring beneath the rear part of the mechanism? <br>I did not have much luck with the original action series of 3-2-1 until I tried 2-3-1 and the whole spring just slid into place while pivoting on the middle curved tab.<br></blockquote><p>In my case 1-2-3 worked. <br><br></p>
<p>Thank you! I have 2 logitech mice and BOTH have started having this problem. I might replace the switch if I can find or build a better one that lasts longer. At any rate, once the mice die for good, no more cheaply made logitechs for me. One year then broken is designed obsolescence. I won't be supporting a company that does things like this.</p>
<p>To find a good quality microswitch, look for a mouse that is 10+ years old and take one out if that. I have an old Logitech trackball from the late 90's. Not only does it still work, it has never had a double click issue. Nor did any of the optical track balls I purchased prior to 2002.</p><p>I don't have the equipment to do it, but I wonder what would happen if someone took the copper spring, cleaned it with alcohol real good and then gold plated it?</p><p>Come to think of it. putting dialectic grease where the points connect may be just as good a solution as it would prevent oxidation.</p>
<p>Brilliant instructions, mouse fixed after 30 minutes! made up!</p><p>I still wince when I close an email in case Outlook (work), gets closed, I've been scarred by the double click issue! hahaha</p>
<p>If you want to try a <em>software</em> solution before breaking out the toolkit, try <a href="https://clickfix.cf" rel="nofollow">ClickFix</a> . I designed ClickFix to solve this exact problem.</p><p>If problems with antivirus arise, please see the notice on <a href="https://github.com/cemrajc/clickfix/blob/master/WARNING.md" rel="nofollow">false positives</a>. Do note that ClickFix is open source :)</p>
<p>I have done it and everything is working well now. Thanks a lot!</p>
<p>Awesome!! Great stuff. Save a me a tiny sum to go get another mouse. Thanks a lot.</p>
<p>Oh wow, thanks for the instructions. I tried to not yelling at midnight while installing the damn spring lol.</p><p>My mouse is Toshiba U20. The curved part of original spring was snapped at first attempt to repair it (before I found your instruction. Basically it was a blind repair lol). </p><p>After I read your instruction, I remember that I have another broken mouse, so I decided to repair it again... and it works! It was hard to install the spring especially if there is a very little space available (the pic is not mine, but it's the same Toshiba U20)</p>
<p>Old Logitech Mouse (10 year old!) repaired in 30'. Thank you!</p>
<p>The double click was bugging me big te and this fix did it! </p><p>Step 8 to many many tries though. I finally got that piece in place by holding the left end steady with my thumb and adjusting the piece with a set of pincers. </p><p>A THOUSAND TIMES THANKS! </p>
<p>Why does view all steps not work? it just refreshes the page</p>
<p>I did the same on my 4 year old Performance MX and it worked.</p><p>Actually 2 years ago I had the same issue and I fixed it by adding a thin layer of adhesive tape between the plastic button and the micro-switch.</p>
<p>Thanks for great manual. 5 years old mice received 2nd life. In step 6 instead of flat head screwdriver I found very convenient to use pin or needle to leverage the front part of black box with white tiny button.</p>
<p>Awesome! Works.<br>I did however first place the spring part under the ledge first, then made sure the spring was in place, and then retracted it to the front.</p>
<p>Thank you for the most excellent instruction!!! I have the exact same mouse that has recently encountered the exact same problem. Normally I wouldn't bother and just toss the mouse since it's served me well for years already, but I figured I could spend 15 minutes on it. It took me more like 30 because of that dang Step 8. You instruction was about as good as possible, but there still is a certain knack to reassembling those tiny pieces that you have to learn. Hopefully, I will remember the next time it happens. </p><p>I took the opportunity to clear out all the dust balls as well. Now the mouse works like new. Thanks again.</p>
<p>Saved my G602! Only took about an hour, tweezers were really useful. Ordered some Omrons just in case even though this seems to have fixed it. Man double clicks can really destroy your sanity...</p>
<p>Took me 3 hours on step 8, finally bent the tension spring in tension and threw the mouse away...</p>
<p>ya dont try this at home... only try this at home if you want suicidal thoughts, step 8 took me about 2 hours of trying and i think i broke the thing but i broke it in a way where it works , its like crushed in..... never again will i try to fix my mouse if it double clicks , the guide is not bad, but doing it is, point.... DON'T TRY</p>
<p>Saved a $5 mouse.</p><p>The mechanism cover, from steps 5 and 6, was placed on this board in such a way that only one side was available. I had to lift the only exposed side, then push a small stiff wire through the mechanism box against the far side in order to safely open it. It was like a jack-in-the-box.</p><p>Thanks for the simple and fun instructions.</p>
<p>I have found a much easier solution to this problem. Just put a small piece of paper in the space between the mouse button and the mouse. This will fix the problem to quite an extent and is a much easier solution. Albeit it may not work for all mouses</p>
<p>I can't believe it but I was able to do it!!! Saved a $80 mouse! These instructions and comments are great! Thanks so much!</p>

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