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Step 9: reassemble the click mechanism and test

Next, you will need to reassemble the click mechanism. First reinstall the tiny white button into the mechanism cover (you did remember to find and set aside the tiny button right?).  The easiest way to do this is by dropping or placing it into the cover with a pair of tweezers. With one hand, pick up the cover  while keeping it upside down so the button stays in place. With the other hand, pick up the mouse body, turn it upside down, and push the cover back into place. Doing it this way will insure that the tiny white button stays in place while the mechanism is put back together.

At this point, before reassembling the mouse, set it down on the table, and give the tiny white button a few test clicks. You should notice that it is making a crisp click sound when pressed, and that it now springs back with more force than it did before. If you are not hearing and feeling a difference, you may need to open the mechanism back up and try retentioning the spring again.

If all seems well, than go ahead and put the mouse top back in place, reinstall the 4 main screws, and put the slide pads back in place. If there is not enough adhesive left to keep the slide pads on, you can add some more. Regular elmers glue stick has worked for me, or a dab of superglue would certainly do the trick.

Thanks for reading. I hope you now have a mouse that clicks properly.
<p>Thank you very much. It took me around 15 mins to complete the fix (on a second attempt).</p><p>Actually <br> you just need to increase the strength of the curved part (the spring), <br> so you can use a steel rule or whatever to slightly flatten the curved <br>spring, then put it back on the contacts.</p><p>After you flattened the spring, it will be harder for you to put it back on the tiny switch.<br>I don't have tweezers with me, I used a pair of nose pliers to put the spring back in place. My mouse is like new again.</p>
I cant believe it worked. After some yelling and time I finally got the damn copper piece into place. THANKS!
Hi, thank you very much for the great tutorial - I've tried it and my mouse is working fine. May I suggest that for step 8: Reinstall tension spring, you (1) place the curved tab (which is in the middle of the spring) at an angle on the tiny ledge of the metal piece on the mechanism first, then (2) hook the spring onto the front part of the mechanism, before finally (3) sliding the spring beneath the rear part of the mechanism? <br> <br>I did not have much luck with the original action series of 2-1-3 until I tried 1-2-3 and the whole spring just slid into place while pivoting on the middle curved tab. <br> <br>Hope this helps. And once again, thank you!
<p>Thank you so much!! You saved my life, LOL!! </p><p>It really works. You are genius!! Be happy and keep helping others by give such helpful solutions!!</p>
<p>Here are two very close up pictures I had from my Intellimouse Optical USB. They are very similar to the ones all of you have shown. Hope this helps someone to see it close up.</p>
<p>I actually ended up swapping the switch with another one from my other Intellimouse Optical that wasn't working for a different reason.</p>
<p>Thanks for nice document. I tried repair my Logitech G700 by following this instruction and it seems to be working better than before.</p><p>During fixing it I felt that OMRON's click mechanism is not perfect and there should be more safe way to give a tension to the left click button...</p>
<p>Thanx a lot :)</p>
Thanks for this. My m570 made it so I had to remove a tiny circuit board to get to the left click box. It's like they don't want you to fix things!
<p>Thanks so much. Works really well now. Have a nice and firm click to it. I had to open the right click button also to have a reference of how it should look. easy useful fix</p>
<p>Just replaced the clicker with one from an old a4tech mouse. Works great. Get a desoldering iron if you haven't already.</p>
<p>Created an account just to thank you. It was a meticulous process but your instructions helped a lot in fixing my mouse. More than saving money it was a great experience, especially since I love DIY stuff with electronics. Thanks once again. :)</p>
<p>I have a G700S and found by taking the batteries out and clicking both (left &amp; right) over and over for about thirty seconds it went back to working again (no double-triple clicking) seems the capacitors need to be discharged....it surprised me that it did work....thought I'd have to take it apart and re-bend the copper contact.</p>
<p>I just wanted to say thank you, it took me a good 45 minutes of taking it apart and putting it back together again to get it right. But I still really appreciate it!</p>
<p>It worked !</p><p>Most difficult part was inserting that white button.</p>
<p>It worked !</p><p>Most difficult part was inserting that white button.</p>
<p>Thanks a lot for the guide, my Roccat mouse now works like it's supposed to!</p><p>It's quite fiddely and took me between half an hour and an hour. I had to disassemble the right mouse click to figure out how it was supposed to look like. But it was okay, I ended up figuring it out.</p><p>Note that you can retension the copper &quot;spring&quot; without removing it! In my case, I removed it and flattened it like on the pictures but couldn't put it back in. When I managed to do so, it was a pain because it wouldn't click correctly. I ended up pressing down on the whole thing with a finger, and pushing up on the spring to flatten it with the click still assembled. Which I should have done in the first place as it would have spared me a lot of trouble putting it all back together.</p><p>Thanks a bunch for the guide!</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>Because of the warnings, I first tried all the simple things I could think of before starting to disassemble my mouse.</p><p>I found a very simple measure that worked in my case:</p><p>1. Go to mouse settings</p><p>2. Set double click speed to &quot;fast&quot; (as fast as possible)</p><p>3. Problem solved.</p><p>Of course this might not solve your problem, but it is worth a try! And actually it is not a solution but a work-around. But that doesn't bother me. ;)</p>
<p>Very good tutorial. Cured 3 defunct mice already. </p><p>As they did not last very long even after this process so I swapped the spring/plate (in question) with the one under the scroll bar (I rarely use the click function of the scroll bar so it was as good as new). It has been 2 weeks since, it is working like new.</p>
<p>Do people really not know what a microswitch is? Why does everyone call it a &quot;click&quot;? I guarantee you that if you tell someone in an electronics place that you want to buy a &quot;click&quot;, they'll look at you like you're nuts.</p><p>As for the tutorial itself: I find that when my mouse starts double-clicking, the solution is usually to clean the contacts in the microswitch. The spring is usually fine and after cleaning the contact points with a Q-Tip soaked in alcohol, it works great for 6-12 months.</p>
<p>The idea is to keep the same pin angle, but flattening the curve so the pin is slightly longer. This is what will increase the tension. Also once you know the trick for putting the spring back, it's really fast. First one took 30 minutes to figure out, second one took 1 minute. I've drawn the steps because it might be clearer than having the real pictures, focusing on the important parts</p>
<p>Thanks for the diagram! You're the only person who was smart enough to draw a simple diagram. Putting the copper piece back in is really a two-step process.</p><p>The second step that I missed, is pushing the curve straight down until it clicks into place.</p>
<p>I did this and i think it worked. My mouse would not always click on the first try and now it does. Thank you. Good stuff</p>
<p>I was having the double and triple click problem. It was static electricity between dissimilar plastics in the mouse design.<br>Try this first cut a small square of heavy duty packing tape and put it over the part of the part of the finger pressure plate that comes in contact with the switch. The part that comes down onto the white post on top of the switch on the circuit board.<br>place the top back on your mouse and test it here. <br><br><a href="http://unixpapa.com/js/testmouse.html" rel="nofollow">http://unixpapa.com/js/testmouse.html </a> <br></p><p>If this doesn't fix your mouse like it did mine then it may be your spring :(</p>
<p>Many thanks. A very well written and illustrated guide.</p><p>I was *CERTAIN* that my fault was owing to S/W but, after testing in Safe Mode, nothing changed. Being mechanically minded, I didn't read every page of instructions because your intro indicated the component on which to concentrate. Over the years, I've &quot;repaired&quot; many electrical switches simply by cleaning so I thought I'd give this a go and chanced it without tweezers. (Complacency on my part!)</p><p>Stage 8 certainly is fiddly especially in ambient, winter overcast outdoor lighting! I had to bother to get out my fine nose pliers! (I've never worked on a switch THIS small) I used a sewing needle (a pin would do) to uncatch the switch housing because of other components obstructing access - that wasn't difficult once I'd chosen the right tool.</p><p>As &quot;Artmis36d&quot; suggested in the comments, I recurved the spring to create a better resistance.</p><p>Perhaps overkill, I affixed a tiny piece of tape onto part of the spring in case it makes contact with the side of the lower contact &quot;post&quot;. That's what I anticipated created the double click: the contacts clearly worked but I imagined that there was a &quot;double tap&quot; of the components during function.</p><p>Mouse single clicks by default, as designed! :-) Have now joined Instructables.</p>
<p>Thanks to this tutorial I have now permanently disabled my 75 euro computer mouse, after about 2h of nothing but rage and salt with only negative results i have decided to leave this comment as a reminder that some of us are not gods, and do not have deathly still hands.</p>
<p>Hello. thank you for the fix. It worked but i have a problem. the clicking is not as crisp anymore, it feels loose if you see what i mean. doesnt feel right . i think i put the click assembly back wrong. if you can help me thatd be great. thanks</p>
<p>Hello. thank you for the fix. It worked but i have a problem. the clicking is not as crisp anymore, it feels loose if you see what i mean. doesnt feel right . i think i put the click assembly back wrong. if you can help me thatd be great. thanks</p>
<p>very good indeed.</p><p>you could also replace the clicker itself using solder + gun.</p><p>Thank you very much!!!</p>
<p>Thank you for making this repair guide.My logitech g300 have this problem after 2 years of use.Both left and right button has the same problem and it take me around 2 hours to do this.All the pain that i have to go through on step 8 really worth it.My mouse works like new again.</p>
<p>It took me about two to three hours (i'm not so good at fine work like this), but it eventually worked! The clips on the switches were on the side instead of the front, The middle mouse switch was in the way so I had to remove and re-solder the left mouse button switch and use a precision knife to lift the plastic off the clips.</p><p>Thanks very much for sharing this solution!</p>
<p>It worked. Very fiddly but rewarding.</p>
<p>hope it works</p>
<p>THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!! <br>You made my day! I bought the mouse and I couldn't find the receipt, so the vendor wouldn't change it!! As a gamer that thing really frustrated me!<br><br>But with my mouse the step #6 was a pain!!! the box cover was really different from yours, my screwdriver couldn't lift it!!! I had to heat the edge, then go hard on the plastic to melt it!!! After several minutes of swearing I could remove it... and the copper thing got damaged XD<br>Took 30 minutes to unbend the copper, then I could proceed! (only used some glue to reassemble the black box)<br><br>My mouse now is perfect... Much appreciated</p>
<p>great tutorial! i made it for about 45mins. im having bad time when placing the copper back, made it not straight but it works on my G300.</p>
<p>Yayyyyy!!!!!!!! It worked for me!!!!!!!! except a lot of patience for that small copper thing!!!!!!!</p>
<p>Do not do this if your mouse buttons still have a satisfying click. If they still click good, I believe it is unlikely that this is your problem.</p><p>I'm fairly certain that my problem was a different issue entirely. You might want to take a look at this first in case yours is too: <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/dWJk4EWfyOA" width="500"></iframe></p><p>If you are sure that the mechanical switches are your problem and are determined to proceed with this repair then please read this:</p><p>I completely ruined both my buttons attempting this fix. It took me multiple hours and when I was done the buttons did not even click anymore. I know I mangled one of the metal pieces pretty badly. This is mostly due to my fat fingers and the precision required, making me want to scream the whole time. (I think I kept myself in pretty good control despite this). </p><p>1. The instructions in the OP describing how to add tension to the spring are, in my opinion, misleading. If you look at the pictures you will see that the straighter the spring is the more tension it is going to apply. I didn't realize this till after I had really mangled one, though that was mostly due to the next thing.</p><p>2. If you take one of these off it is really hard to put back on. This is not an exaggeration (though maybe some are easier than others). I applaud the people who say they did it in 10-15 minutes. I am sure I spent the better part of 2 hours. There is a little groove in the vertical metal pin, that the spring end fits against. Now that I know how it works I think it may be easier to put back on with a very small needle-nose or something like this, but considering I haven't had a working switch yet, despite doing this on two different switches, I can't really say can I? I would definitely consider trying the suggestions of adding tension carefully without taking the springs off before I ever considered taking one of these off again, ever. </p>
I'm sorry you had so much trouble. That little tension spring is a pain, as many commentors had affirmed.
<p>Thanks! I fixed this mouse with factory bug :)</p>
<p>Thanks for the instruction. After fix the repaired button can't trigger the click, but with some tape under the bottom of the button, it works like a charm.</p>
<p>Thanks for your repair instruction. However, I find an script that fix this problem if you are lazy to do the repair. I just used it and it worked. Read on:<br>http://www.autohotkey.com/board/topic/34911-stop-double-click-if-too-fast/</p>
<p>Wow! This a great suggestion! I checked out both of the links you provided, noticed a script that seemed appropriate </p><p>[CODE]LButton::<br><br>If (A_TimeSincePriorHotkey &lt; 100) ;hyperclick<br><br>Return<br><br>sendinput {LButton down}<br><br>KeyWait, LButton<br><br>sendinput {LButton up}<br><br>Return[/CODE]</p><p> I downloaded AutoHotkey, spent a few <br>minutes reading the basic help (how to create a script file and execute <br>it), copied and pasted your script into the file I created, saved it and<br> ran it. Boom! Works like a charm!<br><br>As for tinkering with my mouse, I have one working wireless Microsoft mouse and one dead Microsoft mouse and after taking the cover off the dead one, the microswitches seem much more compact than the ones in this Instructable. I gotta say I love this site and love tinkering with hardware (I plan to try out that Thermic Lance but with a proper oxygen hose attachment), but my eyesight isn't what it used to be and my fingers are no longer very dexterous, so I'm thinking this &quot;project&quot; would involve a lot of cursing! And at the end of it, I might have to resort to one of my wired mice(mouses?), a definite step down. </p><p>In any case I just have to leave a rant about the basic problem (a mouse contact that gets &quot;bouncy&quot;). When I <br>finally got pissed enough to google the problem I was experiencing, I <br>was surprised to realize that the basic mouse driver doesn't have any <br>de-bouncing capability! WTF! Bouncing contacts is pretty basic stuff, <br>i.e. quite common for lots of electronics besides mice, yet <br>driver designers haven't figured it out yet? Yikes!</p>
<p>I am sure they are aware of the bouncing problem, or maybe it is planned obsolescence. Watch &quot;the light bulb conspiracy | planned obsolescence&quot; on youtube, and you will see how sad is everything designed not to work after a while, so companies make more money.</p>
<p>http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2255541</p>
<p>Thank you for the instructable . I made it after 20 mins of patience.</p>
<p>I did all this once a few years back. I've had this problem with almost every mouse I've owned in the last 10 years. It seems most brands of mice use the same shabby 'clicky' type of switch. It would probably be better to unsolder this switch from the circuit board and solder in a more reliable switch, even if it's not 'clicky'.</p>
<p>worked like a charm, my middle mouse button was up to between 2-6 clicks per touch, now its like new again!</p>
<p>IT WORKED! YEAH! Now my mouse is 'cured' from its double-clicking disease :-)</p><p>Good grief, you were not kidding when you wrote that Step 8 will be exasperating. Although, on my mouse (Marathon Mouse M705) Step 6 was also very frustrating because there were components half blocking the lower latch edge.</p><p>So, if you're yet to partake in this adventure, please DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE the time needed. And, as frEmn had written, GOOD LIGHTING IS A MUST. I had to augment my office's bright overhead lights with a USB-powered LED &quot;lightstick&quot;.</p>

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