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Step 3Unplug connectors
Before any disassembly, I tried running the rear window up and down and ran the rear window wiper. If something is binding or stuck, now would be the time to troubleshoot and get new parts if necessary. Fortunately, I could find nothing wrong with the window motor and gear assembly or the wiper assembly. So far, so good.
Next. The first problem I noted was that the cheapo plastic outside door handle above the license plate was loose and did not seem to be pulling up the lower latch as it should. You can find a metal replacement for the latch handle on eBay. The dealer tried to sell me another cheap plastic replacement for way more than the metal handle I can buy online. If I had found that the plastic door handle was broken, I would definitely get the metal replacement. I don't want to do any more surgery on the rear door than is necessary in the future.
Next I removed all the decorative plastic panel and trim around the inside of the rear door. I removed the hex head screws holding the stamped black metal plate that goes across the inside of the door carefully. I next removed all the electrical connectors and set the harness aside.
I found that a rubber encased cable (kinda like a brake cable on a bike) was elongated, It raises a lever like assembly on the lower solenoid/latch assembly. If the wire in the cable is elongated, a person will NOT be able to open the door. My cheapo plastic handle was intact, the wire had stretched though. The dealer does NOT sell this item unless you buy the latch handle to go with it. Grrrrrrrrr.
I then listened carefully while pressing the open/close button on the key fob and noticed that the solenoid at the bottom of the door was making a kind of vibrating noise that didn't sound right at all.
Also the part of the latch that opens and closes around the rear door to the lower bumper was stuck completely shut and could not be moved. I could hear the solenoid trying to work, but mostly it made grinding noises.
I started this repair by first removing all the plastic decorative cover panels from the inside of the rear door. I did this with a screw driver and a putty knife slid under the edge of the plastic. Being careful to not scratch up the paint or distort the plastic. It is pretty fragile on the outer edges. Note that if the cheapo plastic snap retainers break, replacements are available at Lowe's in the nuts and bolts department or an auto store if necessary. I was careful and didn't break any.
Next I went to the bottom part of the door and removed the plastic shroud surrounding the lower door latch/solenoid and use a 10mm socket to remove the 10mm hex head screws.
After I got the plastic panels off, I could see some electrical connectors going into a black box on the driver's side of the rear hatch on a black stamped metal cover. I removed the male part of the connectors very carefully. Note: I never pull connectors out by the wires because a person may get their very own personal fireworks display when reconnecting and powering up. I used a flat blade screwdriver to release the connector latches and gently jiggle the male part of the connector from the female base connector.
Next. The first problem I noted was that the cheapo plastic outside door handle above the license plate was loose and did not seem to be pulling up the lower latch as it should. You can find a metal replacement for the latch handle on eBay. The dealer tried to sell me another cheap plastic replacement for way more than the metal handle I can buy online. If I had found that the plastic door handle was broken, I would definitely get the metal replacement. I don't want to do any more surgery on the rear door than is necessary in the future.
Next I removed all the decorative plastic panel and trim around the inside of the rear door. I removed the hex head screws holding the stamped black metal plate that goes across the inside of the door carefully. I next removed all the electrical connectors and set the harness aside.
I found that a rubber encased cable (kinda like a brake cable on a bike) was elongated, It raises a lever like assembly on the lower solenoid/latch assembly. If the wire in the cable is elongated, a person will NOT be able to open the door. My cheapo plastic handle was intact, the wire had stretched though. The dealer does NOT sell this item unless you buy the latch handle to go with it. Grrrrrrrrr.
I then listened carefully while pressing the open/close button on the key fob and noticed that the solenoid at the bottom of the door was making a kind of vibrating noise that didn't sound right at all.
Also the part of the latch that opens and closes around the rear door to the lower bumper was stuck completely shut and could not be moved. I could hear the solenoid trying to work, but mostly it made grinding noises.
I started this repair by first removing all the plastic decorative cover panels from the inside of the rear door. I did this with a screw driver and a putty knife slid under the edge of the plastic. Being careful to not scratch up the paint or distort the plastic. It is pretty fragile on the outer edges. Note that if the cheapo plastic snap retainers break, replacements are available at Lowe's in the nuts and bolts department or an auto store if necessary. I was careful and didn't break any.
Next I went to the bottom part of the door and removed the plastic shroud surrounding the lower door latch/solenoid and use a 10mm socket to remove the 10mm hex head screws.
After I got the plastic panels off, I could see some electrical connectors going into a black box on the driver's side of the rear hatch on a black stamped metal cover. I removed the male part of the connectors very carefully. Note: I never pull connectors out by the wires because a person may get their very own personal fireworks display when reconnecting and powering up. I used a flat blade screwdriver to release the connector latches and gently jiggle the male part of the connector from the female base connector.
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