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Step 8Record the steps in disassembly...
I recorded the steps during disassembly and then just did everything in reverse to get the latch back into the bottom of the door. Replace the stamped metal cover with the 10mm hex screws.
I made sure that I reconnected all of the electric connectors. Then I carefully cycled the key fob and watch the latch open and close on the solenoid/latch assembly. Note that I had to carefully squeeze the rear door handle to open and close the solenoid/latch. Do NOT close the door until you do all of this or you risk locking the door in the shut position because you forgot to replace something or failed to insert a connector. If this happens, the owner would have to get inside the vehicle and move the cadmium plated levers by hand and hopefully without losing a finger or something, the door will open.
I made sure that the solenoid/latch assembly is in working order before closing the door. I carefully checked all myfingers/toes and major and minor appendages and made sure they are all intact. If not, better call 911 right away.
I then went ahead and closed the door, took a deep breath and locked and opened the door using the key fob. Worked perfectly the first time.
Next look at any parts I might have left over. Important parts will be bigger and probably necessary for optimal operation. There should be NO left over parts when done.
Also, the window and the wiper assemblies worked with no problems.
You didn't take them out by mistake, did you? You just don't listen, to you!
I then replaced the stamped black metal plate and screwed in all the hex head screws and attached the harnesses with red electrical tape to the stamped black metal plate.
I left the outer plastic door panel off for several days just in case something went wrong. Nothing happened, so I reinstalled the plastic panel covering the door.
If I had to do this again, it would probably take no more than 45 minutes; less if I was just gonna swap out with new parts. Two hours labor for this job if done at the dealer is ridiculous if the mechanic remotely knows what he is doing. Somebody might get lucky after a few squirts of WD-40 into the lower hatch assembly and won't have to disassemble anything.
I didn't put any grease or lube in the latching levers or the solenoid/latch assembly. I live in the desert and the dirt that is attracted to grease would probably promote much more wear than if the parts are just left bare. if I lived in an area with a lot of moisture or icy conditions, then I may decide that to apply some lube. Call the dealer and ask them what to use to lube this part (good luck).
Hope this helped save you some time, or at least educated you so that you can discuss the repair with the dealer intelligently.
You can call the wifey and tell her is it OK to bring the kids and the pooch back home.
You worked hard on this; go out and buy yourself something nice with the cash you saved!!!
This is my first instructable, so be kind with comments!
I made sure that I reconnected all of the electric connectors. Then I carefully cycled the key fob and watch the latch open and close on the solenoid/latch assembly. Note that I had to carefully squeeze the rear door handle to open and close the solenoid/latch. Do NOT close the door until you do all of this or you risk locking the door in the shut position because you forgot to replace something or failed to insert a connector. If this happens, the owner would have to get inside the vehicle and move the cadmium plated levers by hand and hopefully without losing a finger or something, the door will open.
I made sure that the solenoid/latch assembly is in working order before closing the door. I carefully checked all myfingers/toes and major and minor appendages and made sure they are all intact. If not, better call 911 right away.
I then went ahead and closed the door, took a deep breath and locked and opened the door using the key fob. Worked perfectly the first time.
Next look at any parts I might have left over. Important parts will be bigger and probably necessary for optimal operation. There should be NO left over parts when done.
Also, the window and the wiper assemblies worked with no problems.
You didn't take them out by mistake, did you? You just don't listen, to you!
I then replaced the stamped black metal plate and screwed in all the hex head screws and attached the harnesses with red electrical tape to the stamped black metal plate.
I left the outer plastic door panel off for several days just in case something went wrong. Nothing happened, so I reinstalled the plastic panel covering the door.
If I had to do this again, it would probably take no more than 45 minutes; less if I was just gonna swap out with new parts. Two hours labor for this job if done at the dealer is ridiculous if the mechanic remotely knows what he is doing. Somebody might get lucky after a few squirts of WD-40 into the lower hatch assembly and won't have to disassemble anything.
I didn't put any grease or lube in the latching levers or the solenoid/latch assembly. I live in the desert and the dirt that is attracted to grease would probably promote much more wear than if the parts are just left bare. if I lived in an area with a lot of moisture or icy conditions, then I may decide that to apply some lube. Call the dealer and ask them what to use to lube this part (good luck).
Hope this helped save you some time, or at least educated you so that you can discuss the repair with the dealer intelligently.
You can call the wifey and tell her is it OK to bring the kids and the pooch back home.
You worked hard on this; go out and buy yourself something nice with the cash you saved!!!
This is my first instructable, so be kind with comments!
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To release the latch, pull the wire inside the cable, may need to remove the handle for that.
This is definitely a safety issue that should trigger a recall.
An old fashioned rod would solve the problem and would not be subject of elongation failures.
I've had to do replace this latch twice already (250K miles) another trick is to compensate for stretching is small washers epoxied on the ball end the cable that fits into the latch. Or, if your in a hurry, squeeze a small lead fishing weight if it truly stretched 3/16". Mine wasn't stretched.