Step 5: Insert the new capacitor

Trim the leads of the new capacitor so that they are both even, and will sit at about the same height as the old capacitor.

Position the new capacitor leads at the holes where the old capacitor was, with the correct polarity.  Just like before, press the tip of the soldering iron directly onto the joint in the back of the circuit board.   As soon as the tip falls into the hole, press the wire lead through the hole, then remove the iron.  The old solder joint will solidify around the new part and hold it secure.  Repeat with the other side.  Add new solder to the joint if necessary.
<p>On the body computer in my car it looks like a capacitor has failed . This is of the design known as &quot;Case E&quot; I cannot see any simple way to remove the faulty capacitor - and therefore also any way to easily re-solder the replacement - how is this type of capacitor attached?</p>
Hi I have a Sony tv stuck in standby mode where do I buy capacitors? I'm highly struggling with this any helps appreciated hugely
<p>i have a samsung 32 inch smart led tv it turns on with image on the screen with sound but no back lights are working could this be a power board problem</p>
<p>Sometimes a bad capacitor has no external signs, this actually happens when they dry up. I had a failed PSU once, and I measured the caps using a cheap ESR meter (check on ebay). The failing cap had still the nominal capacitance but the series resistance was off - instead of being below 1 ohm it was a couple of hundreds! And the rest were also in bad shape, if they weren't failing yet, they would have soon.So if you're in the process of replacing one bad cap, do yourself a favour and simply replace them all :) </p>
I have a Samsung Ps50a457 model, i replaced 2 bulging caps, the tv then worked for 2 days and failed on me again, I am assuming the other caps are faulty aswell BUT which caps am i suppose to change on the power board? There are around 12 caps in total. It is doing my head in please advise.
<p>Change the small voltage ones, not the 450V - those are usually ok. Also check this thread: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35492 It can also be a symptom of cold joints that is giving you problems :) </p>
So do you know the difference between CM402 &amp; CB402? Should i just change the caps which are mounted on the CM places? Very confused as all the caps are looking fine, also why are there different coloured caps? Do they mean anything :-)
<p>I am trying to repair an Arri 1.2KW HMI magnetic ballast from 1995 which flickers irregularly. I found this capacitor which looks blown in that the top is convex, but I measured it with my fluke 179 meter and it came up 230uF. It doesn't seem shorted as I get very high resistance measurements (settling around 11KOhms after starting much higher as I assume the meter battery charges it slightly confounding the resistance measurement). Since this has a black plastic top without any grooves, unlike the metal tops with grooves that I typically see, I'm unclear about whether this means it is blown. </p>
<p>It does look bloated, I suggest you replace it. Sometimes bad capacitors will show correct capacitance but their internal resistance has increased - and this is not measured by most universal meters :)</p>
<p>thank you you for all this great info... I have a JL Audio 500/1 car subwoofer amp. it powers on and has no sound i looked everywhere and tested everything and it all checks out. i see the tops of the capacitors are bulging and they are 1200uf 100WV and i Replaced them with 2200uf 80V would this not be a good idea? i have not powered it on yet. i dont have any matching but these are the same type of caps with plastic tops instead of aluminum i pulled them from a hifonics 1200 watt amp. i just dont want to damage the board by powering it up and it not be a match.</p>
<p>While increasing the capacitance is not a bad thing, the important thing is that you at least match the voltage of the capacitor and the temperature range (80 or 105 deg). </p>
<p>also the capacitors i pulled off. i tested them with a 9 volt and my multimeter... is that not a good enough test because they seemed to work or do bad caps still hold a charge? lol. thank you and anyone feel free to jump in on this if you know</p>
<p>That's a bad test, they will hold charge unless completely dry. </p>
<p>This was successfully applied in fixing a subwoofer for an Advent AV190 computer speaker system - even down to the &quot;blown&quot; capacitor picture resembling my issue. Very helpful, thanks</p>
<p>Is it possible to have a blown capacitor WITHOUT any visible change in it? That is, no distortion of the top, etc.?</p>
<p>Yes! Use an ESR meter and/or capacitance tester to check (they are not the same as a multimiter though some of the very expensive ones will come with the functionality) the capacitors. They run about $80 for a decent ESR meter. If your electronics aren't worth that much I would simply replace them, though.</p>
Discharge all capacitors in the vicinity. It's best not to assume they're all discharged.
Nice job. I love hints.
Hello, sir/ma'am <br> <br>Your instructable is wonderful. I have a question: I have an XBox 360 slim with a 100-127v input power supply. In my country, the wall outlets are all 220v, so I was using a step-down transformer with the console. Unfortunately, I tried out a smaller converter without reading that it was not transformer based. To sum it up, there was a bang and some smoke. <br>I opened up the adapter and found that one big capacitor had burst open (that was my first guess as I had seen a capacitor burst with my own eyes, and that was my own doing) and the electrolyte was spread around. I cleaned up the electrolyte and tried the adapter. The console would work for a minute and then shut down, implying that the rest of the adapter is function. <br>My question is: will replacing the capacitor fix the adapter and make it usable again?
i can vouch for this i had o recently recap my 26&quot; lcd tv due to it turning on and off intermittently <br> <br>i recommended this site they will help you out a lot with the process <br> <br>http://www.badcaps.net/ <br> <br>http://www.badcaps.net/forum/ <br> <br>also the desoldering wick from radio shack from my experience is junk <br> <br>this one is good i have not had a problem with it yet <br>http://www.drillspot.com/products/1429031/Tech_Spray_1811-5F_Desoldering_Wick?s=1 <br> <br>
I'll definitely use this tip in future, thanks.
thank you sir, very helpful. <br> <br>i had a DVD player stop working, turns out it blew the switching power supply IC, and a fuse as well. I replaced them and the unit still didnt power on. <br> <br>i had overlooked a couple of blown caps, so thanks for reminding me to take a second look! all is functioning well
I always suspected the tops of the caps were scored for a reason.
You say to note the polarity of the capicator. Trying to determine the polarity of capicators, especially on well pump motors or other outside erquipment, has always baffled me. Maybe the little blue capicators have the polarity on them. <br>I have asked many highly intelligent electronics technitians how to determine if a capacitor was bad. Their reply was that if they thought it could be bad they replaced it. You are the first person I have seen that has come up with a simple way to dewtermine a bad capicator. Thanks for sharing.
Usually electrolytic capacitors have a stripe with minus signs down the side that indicate the negative lead. You can see in the Step 5 picture the blue capacitor has a black stripe with blue minus signs- that's the negative end. Also on some circuit boards (including the one used in this example) the polarity is marked on the board itself with a little plus and minus sign.
Awesome instructable. The trick for identifying the broken capacitors is great, I've always wondered how to do so. <br> <br>Thanks for sharing.
coming from non electronics i was really glad you explained the thing with simplicity. Loved it !
Glad it helped!

About This Instructable