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Step 6Shell replacement
This is only applicable if you are replacing the shell!
Step 2 and step 3 address the bottom LCD and touch screens while step 2, step 4 and step 5 should get you through replacing the top LCD.
Disconnect the black and white wires from the Slot 1 side of the bottom PCB. Simply pry up on both jacks (a pair of very narrow tweezers, or careful prying with a flat-head screwdriver might work). The black wire can be fed under the Slot 1 bay, but use minimal force, and gently wiggle the wire around to free the cap from any snags.
Feed both wires through the hinge to free the top half of the DS entirely, and then continue pulling them through the top half's hinge to disengage the microphone (white wire) and WiFi antenna (black wire) from the shell.
At the right hinge (the one previously held in place with two screws), there should be a metal thingamajig that helps hold the console open/shut. Use your pliers to pull this out.
There is a 'C' shaped tube/ring/thing at the other side, remove this.
The following steps concern only the new shell, unless the old shell is specified.
-Place the metal thingamajig in your new shell.
-Take the ribbon cable on the LCD, coil it and then feed it through the small section of hinge that is part of the top half of the DS. You will want to coil it such that the loop is towards the front of the LCD (refer to photos).
-Now put the 'C' tube into the hinge so that the slot in the tube accommodates the ribbon cable.
-Stick the mic and antenna into your new shell, feeding the wire through the hinge, through the center of the coiled ribbon cable.
Now you can stick your LCD back into the shell. (If you don't have extra adhesive, you can use double sided tape.)
-If there's a film over your LCD, remove it now!
-If your replacement shell came with adhesive and a replacement plastic cover for the bottom LCD:
-Stick the adhesive to the LCD.
-Stick the LCD to the shell.
-Place the plastic cover over the LCD.
Continuing:
-You have probably displaced the white and black wires that connect to the other half of the DS, and maybe your speaker wires are a little unruly. Re-position these.
-Slide the top cover of the shell back on.
-Replace the 4 screws holding the top half of the DS together.
-Re-stick the rubber inserts on over the screws.
The top half of your DS should now be encased in your new shell.
Now you need to swap the shell for the bottom half:
-Take the inner half of the bottom shell (the piece that frames your bottom screens, and engage it with the top half of the DS.
-Re-fit the two halves of the console together, pulling the ribbon cable through the slot on the bottom shell.
-Before securing the hinge with the two screws, make sure your metal thingamajig controlling the open and closed positions of the DS is placed correctly:
Gently open and close the DS to make sure the alignment is right. If the console opens/closes at bizarre angles, adjust the thingamajig by rotating half of it with your pliers. (It's not hard to do hands-on, it's just hard to describe.)
-From the bottom half of the console, replace the 2 screws holding the hinge together.
-Pull the buttons out of the old shell, and put them into your new shell.
-Plug the top LCD's ribbon cable into the PCB and latch down.
-Run the white wire along the shell, under the PCB.
-Plug the white and black wire jacks back into place (the black wire attaches nearest to Slot 1).
-Re-secure the bottom PCB to the shell.
-Re-install the shoulder buttons (button, hinge pin and spring!)
Now, depending on the replacement shell you have, you may need to transfer some components from your old shell to the new shell. Place the bottom pieces from the old and new shells side by side and see what is missing from the new shell. Possible items are:
-Stylus holder
-Slot 2 metal plate
-A tiny piece of metal that the battery lid screws into
Most of these will come out and re-install with a simple Philip's head screwdriver, but the battery-lid-thing will require something pretty pointy to dislodge.
-Replace the final piece of the shell, and re-attach with the 3 tri-wing and 3 Philip's head screws.
-Replace your battery & secure.
Finally: you're done!
Step 2 and step 3 address the bottom LCD and touch screens while step 2, step 4 and step 5 should get you through replacing the top LCD.
Disconnect the black and white wires from the Slot 1 side of the bottom PCB. Simply pry up on both jacks (a pair of very narrow tweezers, or careful prying with a flat-head screwdriver might work). The black wire can be fed under the Slot 1 bay, but use minimal force, and gently wiggle the wire around to free the cap from any snags.
Feed both wires through the hinge to free the top half of the DS entirely, and then continue pulling them through the top half's hinge to disengage the microphone (white wire) and WiFi antenna (black wire) from the shell.
At the right hinge (the one previously held in place with two screws), there should be a metal thingamajig that helps hold the console open/shut. Use your pliers to pull this out.
There is a 'C' shaped tube/ring/thing at the other side, remove this.
The following steps concern only the new shell, unless the old shell is specified.
-Place the metal thingamajig in your new shell.
-Take the ribbon cable on the LCD, coil it and then feed it through the small section of hinge that is part of the top half of the DS. You will want to coil it such that the loop is towards the front of the LCD (refer to photos).
-Now put the 'C' tube into the hinge so that the slot in the tube accommodates the ribbon cable.
-Stick the mic and antenna into your new shell, feeding the wire through the hinge, through the center of the coiled ribbon cable.
Now you can stick your LCD back into the shell. (If you don't have extra adhesive, you can use double sided tape.)
-If there's a film over your LCD, remove it now!
-If your replacement shell came with adhesive and a replacement plastic cover for the bottom LCD:
-Stick the adhesive to the LCD.
-Stick the LCD to the shell.
-Place the plastic cover over the LCD.
Continuing:
-You have probably displaced the white and black wires that connect to the other half of the DS, and maybe your speaker wires are a little unruly. Re-position these.
-Slide the top cover of the shell back on.
-Replace the 4 screws holding the top half of the DS together.
-Re-stick the rubber inserts on over the screws.
The top half of your DS should now be encased in your new shell.
Now you need to swap the shell for the bottom half:
-Take the inner half of the bottom shell (the piece that frames your bottom screens, and engage it with the top half of the DS.
-Re-fit the two halves of the console together, pulling the ribbon cable through the slot on the bottom shell.
-Before securing the hinge with the two screws, make sure your metal thingamajig controlling the open and closed positions of the DS is placed correctly:
Gently open and close the DS to make sure the alignment is right. If the console opens/closes at bizarre angles, adjust the thingamajig by rotating half of it with your pliers. (It's not hard to do hands-on, it's just hard to describe.)
-From the bottom half of the console, replace the 2 screws holding the hinge together.
-Pull the buttons out of the old shell, and put them into your new shell.
-Plug the top LCD's ribbon cable into the PCB and latch down.
-Run the white wire along the shell, under the PCB.
-Plug the white and black wire jacks back into place (the black wire attaches nearest to Slot 1).
-Re-secure the bottom PCB to the shell.
-Re-install the shoulder buttons (button, hinge pin and spring!)
Now, depending on the replacement shell you have, you may need to transfer some components from your old shell to the new shell. Place the bottom pieces from the old and new shells side by side and see what is missing from the new shell. Possible items are:
-Stylus holder
-Slot 2 metal plate
-A tiny piece of metal that the battery lid screws into
Most of these will come out and re-install with a simple Philip's head screwdriver, but the battery-lid-thing will require something pretty pointy to dislodge.
-Replace the final piece of the shell, and re-attach with the 3 tri-wing and 3 Philip's head screws.
-Replace your battery & secure.
Finally: you're done!
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Hi
For a reliable fix the slot one socket needs to be replaced but it is a very tricky soldering job and you can easliy end up lifting solder pads off the circuit board causing permanent damage.
For a quick fix you could try shinning a torch in the slot and see if any of the contacts are bent and try to straighten them using a bent safety-pin.
Your other option is buying someones broken nintendo (broken screens or something) and swapping the main circuit board with yours.
Hope this is of help.
Couple of points. I did'nt spot a mention of the lens for the power and charge lights. I forgot to fit this and did'nt find out until my son tested it. Second, the metal C in the left hand hinge, bush, was too long for my new case, by nearly 2.5mm. The bore in the inner/upper case that takes this bush was not counterbored deep enough. I adjusted it with wood drill. Upshot is, be careful about what case you buy.
Finally, I recommendd the various toolkits you can pick up from E-bay. Mine came with some neat plastic pry bars and a guitar plectrum. Just the thing for opening the case and flicking up the latches.
May your Gods Go with you - dadllfitit