Repairing a Vs19e


Introduction: Repairing a Vs19e

Does your Hewlett-Packard vs19e monitor no longer power on? Not even the power light glows that nice blue color? Well here is a step by step of how to repair it...if you have basic knowledge of how to use a soldering iron, that is. If not, find a friend that does and slide him an extra value meal from McDonald's or something.

You'll need:

3 (at least) power capacitors
(I used Radio Shack part #272-1032. Any capacitor with the rating of 1000uf @ 10v or better should do though.)
A phillips head screw driver.
A soldiering iron

I take no responsibility if this does not fix your screen! I did this to two of them that would no power on at all before and now they work flawlessly. This is a common problem with these monitors since HP used such cheap parts. Good luck!

Step 1: Remove Stand Cover.

Snap off the top of the stand to revel the screws below. Then simply remove the screws and slide the stand off.

Step 2: Remove Front Cover.

Snap off the front of the monitor housing. There are no screws; it's all simply snapped together. Just go slow and don't force so hard that you crack your housing.

Step 3: Remove Screen From Rear Housing.

Pull up the screen (also not screwed down in any way) and unplug the power cables from the power switch board.

Step 4: Time to Reveal the Good Stuff!

Now that your screen is out, lay it face down on something soft so you can access the power supply and video board on the back of it.

Remove the two screws and gently pull out the cable from the bottom of the video and sound board (smaller cover on the left). There should be some "metal" tape along the bottom, just peel it off of the cover, leaving it attached to the frame so you can reattach it later. Putting this shielding tape back in place when reassembling, helps insure noise doesn't interfere anywhere.

Thanks for the heads up Donald Scott!

Step 5: Remove Power Cable.

Now that you have the metal cover off, unplug the power supply cable from this card. That's all you have to do with this card until your putting everything back together.

Step 6: Remove Power Supply Cover.

Remove the two screws, peel back the "metal" tape, unplug the back light connectors, and remove the cover.

This is the part where I should say that power supplies can be dangerous and all of that. Just don't be stupid and go poking at things with metal objects and you should be good.

Step 7: Remove the Power Supply.

Once the cover is removed, stand the screen up and remove the two screws that hold down the plug (picture 2).

Lay the screen down again and remove the 4 screws that attach it to the housing. Pay special attention to the top left corner screw. This one is bigger and connects the ground to the metal chassis. VERY IMPORTANT!

Step 8: The Problem Children.

Okay, so now you have the power supply out of the monitor itself. You have made it this far. See that wasn't so bad, was it? The three power capacitors in the bottom left corner were the problem for both of the two screens that I have repaired already. If you look at the top of the capacitors, chances are some are bulging and possibly leaking. Just because the bad capacitors in my monitors where these three, doesn't mean that yours will be the same ones. Look at all of the capacitors on the board. They should be good, but your already here, right?

Replace these with the capacitors I talked about in the intro from "the Shack" (it's all I have here sorry... I know they are id10ts) or ones that you picked up somewhere else. Make sure you pay attention to the stripe (the negative side). Installing them backwards will cause them to pop and you will have to do this all over again, if your lucky.

Once you have soldered these three (and possibly others), reassemble! Snap everything back together, screw it all down, etc.

Now plug it in and see if it comes on. It should...

Step 9: DONE!

Ohh pretty...

Let me know if this this works/doesn't work for ya.



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    For those unaware of Thin Film Transistor, Active Matrix LCD Screens, the HP vs19e is the Cat's Meow, although not a 32" or 27", the picture is well worth the Repair Bill....

    I haven't attempted the Repair on this screen yet, but when I found this "Diamond in the Rough" (a dumpster), with an unscratched faceplate, I fell to my knees in rivers of tears Blesssing everythin Holy, Sweet, and Sane.

    Thanks so much for placing this here, and if I knew how, I'd tell the website Owner they needed to make you Partner.

    ONLY the Insignia LCD27 is a better monitor, and Insignia doesn't manufacture 27" models, anymore.

    1 reply

    Many thanks !! This is one wonderful instructable. I used 16 volt replacements instead of 10 volt which might be easier to find at a parts outlet. Until I discovered this web page, I was unsure how I would ever get this monitor back without great trouble finding a repair source let alone an exorbitant cost !!


    Like many others, I followed this simple repair process and was a very happy customer. My monitor is back up and running now with minimal amount of time and money invested.

    Thank you!!

    WHOOOO HOOOOO! $6.35 for the three caps, $4.99 for a new solder wick, 2 1/2 hours easy step by step, and .... BANG.... works like a charm! Great post, thanks.

    1 reply

    Welcome! Glad it helped you out.

    Fantastic information. Exactly the same three capacitors failed in my monitor.Bought three new ones from Maplins (in the UK) and it is up and running again. Many thanks.

    he cambiado los condensadores por unos de 1000mf 25 votios,los que tenia de origen eran de 10 v,pregunto si influye esto en el funcionamiento porque sigue sin encender la pantalla,y cual seria el paso proximo para reparar,gracias de antemano saludos

    Thank you so much for this tutorial. Because of you, we don't have to spend a chunk of money for a new PC <3 :]

    Exelente tutorial , nunca en mi vida habia hecho un cambio de algguna pieza electronica, busque un tutorial de desordar y soldar en youtube y listo, me compre un un soldador de 7 dolares y eso fue todo .Excellent tutorial, never in my life had made ​​a change in any electronic piece, look for a tutorial on youtube desoldering and soldering and ready, I bought a welder for 7 dollars and that was it.

    actually worked! soldering was not easy.

    Thank you for posting this!
    I am adding my comments using the once dead monitor. 3 caps, the proper solder and it was back to life for an even $6!
    Some tips that may help out-

    Replace with the same spec caps. Voltage does matter when it comes to operation and life span. Radio Shack didn't have the right caps, but they connected me with the holy grail of electronic shops in the area and they ship-
    These guys know their stuff!

    If you can't get the old caps out, try moving them back and forth while heating them. When assembled the leads are bent down to the board to secure the caps. The solder is a conduit more than a weld so in other words once the old solder is heated, the leads may be keeping the cap in place not the solder.

    Before replacing with new caps make sure the board is free of dust & debris; it can make for difficult soldering if not clean.

    Get the right solder. If you use the same guage you would use for plumbing, you will overheat the caps before the solder melts & sets. A small tube of the right solder that will last me forever cost less than two bucks. Make sure to use rosin too.
    I used Sn63/Pb37 Solder. The liquid to solid temp is only a 2 degree variance. Nice and easy to heat and set quickly.

    Thaks again and I hope some of this helps!



    I would like to thank you for the clear instructions on how to repair this monitor.
    It cost me Euro 1.20 and it is working as new again, and I finally got to see what the inside of a monitor looks like.
    Regards, Jacqueline

    Great stuff, I just became a member to be able to leave this comment. Picked up this monitor (vs19e) at someone's door step, it was going to the junkyard. Took me 30 min to fix it, I already had caps, replaced only two, C822 and C824 and now its working just fine. Excellent article, thank you.

    thanks it works ....thank god its saves me 150 $ ....a fix off 4 $
    ......greetz rich

    I know you said to use the capacitors from radio shack but I found some other ones online which seemed to have the same specs and were way cheaper than the 1.79 per capacitor that RS charges now. Would you be able to tell me if these would work? I have to replace more than 3 of them on one board plus potentially two other monitors that I haven't even taken apart yet so I'm trying to honest be as cost conscious (also known as cheapskate) about it as possible. If you could take a look and comment, I'd appreciate it.

    3 replies

    I wouldn't the voltage is way to high.

    the one at radio shack lists as 35v and this one does too right?

    RS's description for the part number you used is: 1000µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor which I got to by following your original link.

    And the other one I was lookin at is described as:CAPACITOR ALUM ELECT 1000UF, 35V, RADIAL

    Am I reading something completely wrong? I'm learning as I go so anything you can do to educate me is always appreciated. Is it possible the newer one from RS might be too high voltage as well?

    crap. yeah your right. I didnt look at the radio shack link and only read what I had typed.