Does your Hewlett-Packard vs19e monitor no longer power on? Not even the power light glows that nice blue color? Well here is a step by step of how to repair it...if you have basic knowledge of how to use a soldering iron, that is. If not, find a friend that does and slide him an extra value meal from McDonald's or something.

You'll need:

3 (at least) power capacitors
(I used Radio Shack part #272-1032. Any capacitor with the rating of 1000uf @ 10v or better should do though.)
A phillips head screw driver.
A soldiering iron

I take no responsibility if this does not fix your screen! I did this to two of them that would no power on at all before and now they work flawlessly. This is a common problem with these monitors since HP used such cheap parts. Good luck!

Step 1: Remove stand cover.

Snap off the top of the stand to revel the screws below. Then simply remove the screws and slide the stand off.
For those unaware of Thin Film Transistor, Active Matrix LCD Screens, the HP vs19e is the Cat's Meow, although not a 32&quot; or 27&quot;, the picture is well worth the Repair Bill.... <br> <br>I haven't attempted the Repair on this screen yet, but when I found this &quot;Diamond in the Rough&quot; (a dumpster), with an unscratched faceplate, I fell to my knees in rivers of tears Blesssing everythin Holy, Sweet, and Sane. <br> <br>Thanks so much for placing this here, and if I knew how, I'd tell the website Owner they needed to make you Partner. <br> <br>ONLY the Insignia LCD27 is a better monitor, and Insignia doesn't manufacture 27&quot; models, anymore. <br> <br>
Best. Comment. Ever.
<p>Like many others, I followed this simple repair process and was a very happy customer. My monitor is back up and running now with minimal amount of time and money invested. </p><p>Thank you!!</p>
WHOOOO HOOOOO! $6.35 for the three caps, $4.99 for a new solder wick, 2 1/2 hours easy step by step, and .... BANG.... works like a charm! Great post, thanks.
Welcome! Glad it helped you out.
Fantastic information. Exactly the same three capacitors failed in my monitor.Bought three new ones from Maplins (in the UK) and it is up and running again. Many thanks.
he cambiado los condensadores por unos de 1000mf 25 votios,los que tenia de origen eran de 10 v,pregunto si influye esto en el funcionamiento porque sigue sin encender la pantalla,y cual seria el paso proximo para reparar,gracias de antemano saludos
Thank you so much for this tutorial. Because of you, we don't have to spend a chunk of money for a new PC &lt;3 :]
Exelente tutorial , nunca en mi vida habia hecho un cambio de algguna pieza electronica, busque un tutorial de desordar y soldar en youtube y listo, me compre un un soldador de 7 dolares y eso fue todo .Excellent tutorial, never in my life had made ​​a change in any electronic piece, look for a tutorial on youtube desoldering and soldering and ready, I bought a welder for 7 dollars and that was it.
actually worked! soldering was not easy.
Thank you for posting this! <br>I am adding my comments using the once dead monitor. 3 caps, the proper solder and it was back to life for an even $6! <br>Some tips that may help out- <br> <br>Replace with the same spec caps. Voltage does matter when it comes to operation and life span. Radio Shack didn't have the right caps, but they connected me with the holy grail of electronic shops in the area and they ship- <br>www.vetco.net <br>These guys know their stuff! <br> <br>If you can't get the old caps out, try moving them back and forth while heating them. When assembled the leads are bent down to the board to secure the caps. The solder is a conduit more than a weld so in other words once the old solder is heated, the leads may be keeping the cap in place not the solder. <br> <br>Before replacing with new caps make sure the board is free of dust &amp; debris; it can make for difficult soldering if not clean. <br> <br>Get the right solder. If you use the same guage you would use for plumbing, you will overheat the caps before the solder melts &amp; sets. A small tube of the right solder that will last me forever cost less than two bucks. Make sure to use rosin too. <br>I used Sn63/Pb37 Solder. The liquid to solid temp is only a 2 degree variance. Nice and easy to heat and set quickly. <br> <br>Thaks again and I hope some of this helps! <br> <br>MC <br>
I would like to thank you for the clear instructions on how to repair this monitor.<br>It cost me Euro 1.20 and it is working as new again, and I finally got to see what the inside of a monitor looks like.<br>Regards, Jacqueline
Great stuff, I just became a member to be able to leave this comment. Picked up this monitor (vs19e) at someone's door step, it was going to the junkyard. Took me 30 min to fix it, I already had caps, replaced only two, C822 and C824 and now its working just fine. Excellent article, thank you.
thanks it works ....thank god its saves me 150 $ ....a fix off 4 $ <br>......greetz rich
I know you said to use the capacitors from radio shack but I found some other ones online which seemed to have the same specs and were way cheaper than the 1.79 per capacitor that RS charges now. Would you be able to tell me if these would work? I have to replace more than 3 of them on one board plus potentially two other monitors that I haven't even taken apart yet so I'm trying to honest be as cost conscious (also known as cheapskate) about it as possible. If you could take a look and comment, I'd appreciate it.<br><br><br>http://www.newark.com/illinois-capacitor/108ckh035m/capacitor-alum-elect-1000uf-35v/dp/69K7912
I wouldn't the voltage is way to high.
the one at radio shack lists as 35v and this one does too right? <br> <br>RS's description for the part number you used is: 1000&micro;F 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor which I got to by following your original link. <br> <br> <br>And the other one I was lookin at is described as:CAPACITOR ALUM ELECT 1000UF, 35V, RADIAL <br> <br> <br>Am I reading something completely wrong? I'm learning as I go so anything you can do to educate me is always appreciated. Is it possible the newer one from RS might be too high voltage as well?
crap. yeah your right. I didnt look at the radio shack link and only read what I had typed.
Anything? where do I get the caps? I'm totally lost now.
so, what would be the right caps to get? Any suggestions or idea?
I have the VS17e. The 3 capacitors cost me $5.75 tax included from Radio Shack. The instructions were very helpful and although a little different from the 19&quot; model, they were close enough to get it done! I now have a working monitor. The only thing I have to add is about the ribbon cable. DO NOT disconnect it from the circuit board. I did and it was a real pain getting it back on. Instead disconnect it from the display panel. It's quite easy. Just squeeze the 2 tabs and pull with light pressure.
i blew about 4 capacitors and 6 resistors... theres white gunk all over the board now. don't think its coming back to life, thanks though, im salvaging it for the LCD screen which is still good condition.
i found a couple capacitors from my old broken sony and then used them and my monitor is working now not bad from somehting i got out of the garabage Thanx
dont have the compacitors yet i got mine out of the garbage and will try this hope mine has the same problem thanks man if it does free monitor for meeeeeee
<div class="txt" style="padding-bottom: 3.0px;padding-left: 0.0px;padding-right: 4.0px;margin-left: 0.0px;overflow: hidden;">Hi. I moved power supply cover and found 2 of the&nbsp;capacitors (c823 &amp; c827) that were defective.&nbsp;Replaced all three (just in case!), But I still have the same problem!<br /> I checked the entire card for bad solder joints, bad capacitors, but found no visible defects. Is there anything more I can do?</div>
Sadly not that I am aware of. Sorry. i was just fixing these for a friend so I don't even have one to reference or play with.
I cannot heat up the solder on the back side of the card enough to melt it.&nbsp; I am using a good soldering iron.&nbsp; I cant get the capacitors loose.&nbsp; Am I doing something wrong, or how should I go about it?<br />
For most computer parts you need a 55+W iron, but with some time the soldier will melt. I have heard putting fresh soldier on the pads will heat it up faster though. Might want to try that. Sorry.
This is the the best tutorial. It worked to a &quot;T&quot; on my father in laws that I just finished repairing. It is a VS17E but it has pretty much the same capacitors in it. The price to fix it was $5.09 better than $150.00 for a new one. THANKS again and will definitely recommend this if i find someone with this same problem.
No problem, glad I could help.
Great instructable! ... was about to toss my monitor till I discovered this (in Google search).&nbsp; The two bulging capacitors (top should be flat) were easy to spot. &nbsp; Thought it was worth a try ... a trip to Radio Shack and ~$3.50 later ... it was back up and running as good as new ... thanx for posting ... anyone can do this with a soldering iron and a little patience.&nbsp;&nbsp; Did get a small screen scratch in the process of taking the monitor apart.&nbsp; Fixed it with the Vaseline Trick of putting a small bit to cover the scratch.&nbsp; Then it disappeared. Saved me from buying a new monitor!
Add another satisfied<em> instructables</em> member to the list.&nbsp; I did just as the instructions and photos said, and the only hard part was that my local electronics store didn't have the capacitors I needed, so I had to drive about 15 miles to get them (total cost for three $1.53). &nbsp;When my grand daughter saw my now-working monitor, so told me that she has the 17&quot; version of the same model, and asked if I could fix hers.&nbsp; Hey, this could be the start of a business!! (just kidding, but I'm glad I could help her out too).&nbsp; Thanks for taking the time to publish these instructions.&nbsp; They really work!!!<br />
Always been intimidated&nbsp;by the inner workings of all the high-tech stuff but I&nbsp;read over you instructions a couple of times, bought the parts (only a few bucks), and gave it a try. It was as easy and just as you described it... until I got to the soldering of the capacitors part. Stepped away for a few minutes, found a video that showed how to solder capacitors to a circuit board and my monitor was back together and working great in no time. I was so close to just tossing the monitor&nbsp;until I&nbsp;found your tutorial. If I can do it I'm sure just about anyone&nbsp;could.&nbsp;Thanks.
&nbsp;Excellent step-by-step guide. The only problem I ran into was in step 4 &amp; 6. &nbsp;The screws to the power supply &amp; video card housing had pretty much fused to the chassis. &nbsp;I nearly stripped them trying to remove them. &nbsp;Just in case anyone else has this problem, I found that applying heat from a soldering iron directly onto the stuck screws for about 2 minutes, followed by a little WD-40 after they cooled, a little tapping from a hammer on the screw-driver and some very careful twisting and the screws finally did come loose! &nbsp;And now I have my monitor back to life and it works perfectly just like it did before! &nbsp;I couldn't be happier. &nbsp;Thanks again for this excellent guide. &nbsp;Best of luck to you all.
Hello Thanks for thidngreat guide I now have an as new monitor....thanks again
&nbsp;Help me please,<br /> I have a HP VS 17e . I have yet changed two bulging caps.The screen switch on but &nbsp;are white. The menu do not appear the only key running &nbsp;is the power key.<br /> Can any one tell me a solution?
I am an electrical engineer and design integrated circuits for a living. But honestly, I would not have attempted this repair without your excellent instructions - which were "spot on" by the way. My monitor is back up and working, and life is good. Thank you for taking the time to share what you learned!
Hey Thanks! I got to work this morning - black screen. found this link and quickly repaired an HP vs17e monitor. It's a little different than the 19, but close enough. Screen works beautifully now. Had the blinking blue power light and black screen prior to repair.
Not to steal any thunder, this instructable is great, but if you need additional views, there are fixes for both the VS19e and VS19d available here. More images and such if you're stuck or have further questions. Nice job on this fix!:<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://boredprojects.blogspot.com/2009/09/hpvs19e-monitor-fix.html">http://boredprojects.blogspot.com/2009/09/hpvs19e-monitor-fix.html</a><br/>
Will this work on a vs17e? When I turn on the monitor it works for 3-4 seconds then shuts off. Could this be the same problem?
Hey I just found this tutorial. I have had two monitors go bad and they have been in storage for over a year. I opened up one and saw that 3 of the capacitors were bulging at the top and then there were a couple things that were leaking I guess? It was like hardened white foam near them. On a couple of things that look like larger capacitors and then on a couple of these little light blue things. I know nothing about the insides of electronics, so do I need to replace those too or just the capacitors or should I just junk it and try the other one? I was hoping it wouldn't take too much money or time to get it fixed. Thanks.
The hardened white foam is most likely just an electronics glue put on the circuit board to hold parts in place (or some such thing). Pretty much every circuit board I look at has that stuff on it, in one form or another. It's easy to spot the bad caps, though. Just look for the bulge... (And as a side note, the caps I replace in A/C systems every day bulge in exactly the same way - even though these caps are usually about the size of a soda can.)
Thanks for posting this. I pulled a few 1000 uf caps off an old AT motherboard I had laying on a shelf in the garage, and now the HP flat-panel works like new. It was indeed the 3 caps you pointed out, bulged and blown. And I TOLD the wife that the dusty stuff on the shelves would come in handy someday! ;)
My circuit board and the screws were in different spots. Just took my time and figured it out. Replace the 3 capacitors (now 35 volts), they still fit. It works fine now. Thank you!!!!
I took the monitor apart ber the instructions but I can't tackle the removal and soldering of the capacitors. Can anyone recommend a place that could take the circuit board and repair for me?
Use a small pin point iron that you can get from radio shack cheap. Besure to by solder wick also. Lay the wick over the capictor lead , toudh the iron to it brifely to remove the solder. Repeat is necessary being careful not to allow too much heat build up. Carefully straighten the leads. wiggle the capacitor to losen the leads and pull out noticing which side has the - mark so it can be replaced the same way. Usually the - will go to the side that is black on the circuit board. Put the new copacitor back in, spread the leads a bit to hold it in place then touch the iron to the place where the lead contacts the circuit board trace then apply a touch of solder. It doesn't take alot. snip the excess lead and put it back together.
Sadly no. I don't know of any shops that will do stuff like that. Ask friends and family, everyone seems to know someone that will do it. You could try like car stereo places actually, a lot of them solder their wires in like they actually should. Just call one and see, couldn't hurt. Try a local shop, not a big name shop though.
After being led all over the place with nothing but stupid auto responces from HP I came across this article. Although mine was a bit differant, the process worked great and for less than a dollar my monitor is working like new. I might advise novice at this to look at an elcronic supplier for the capacitors and also solder wick to help remove the solder. You can pick up a small, pin soldering iron from Radio shack for the soldering part. Too much heat is fatal. I will life the traces off the circuit board.
I'm not sure why, but my monitor has one circuit board containing power supply and vidio board all in one. The capacitors were easy to locate though. Rounded on top as discribed. When tested they only showed about 200 micro farrids. I replaced them with 16v instead of 10v hoping it will prevent future failures with a heavier duty capacitor.

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