You'll need:
3 (at least) power capacitors
(I used Radio Shack part #272-1032. Any capacitor with the rating of 1000uf @ 10v or better should do though.)
A phillips head screw driver.
A soldiering iron
Solder
Disclaimer
I take no responsibility if this does not fix your screen! I did this to two of them that would no power on at all before and now they work flawlessly. This is a common problem with these monitors since HP used such cheap parts. Good luck!
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I haven't attempted the Repair on this screen yet, but when I found this "Diamond in the Rough" (a dumpster), with an unscratched faceplate, I fell to my knees in rivers of tears Blesssing everythin Holy, Sweet, and Sane.
Thanks so much for placing this here, and if I knew how, I'd tell the website Owner they needed to make you Partner.
ONLY the Insignia LCD27 is a better monitor, and Insignia doesn't manufacture 27" models, anymore.
I am adding my comments using the once dead monitor. 3 caps, the proper solder and it was back to life for an even $6!
Some tips that may help out-
Replace with the same spec caps. Voltage does matter when it comes to operation and life span. Radio Shack didn't have the right caps, but they connected me with the holy grail of electronic shops in the area and they ship-
www.vetco.net
These guys know their stuff!
If you can't get the old caps out, try moving them back and forth while heating them. When assembled the leads are bent down to the board to secure the caps. The solder is a conduit more than a weld so in other words once the old solder is heated, the leads may be keeping the cap in place not the solder.
Before replacing with new caps make sure the board is free of dust & debris; it can make for difficult soldering if not clean.
Get the right solder. If you use the same guage you would use for plumbing, you will overheat the caps before the solder melts & sets. A small tube of the right solder that will last me forever cost less than two bucks. Make sure to use rosin too.
I used Sn63/Pb37 Solder. The liquid to solid temp is only a 2 degree variance. Nice and easy to heat and set quickly.
Thaks again and I hope some of this helps!
MC
It cost me Euro 1.20 and it is working as new again, and I finally got to see what the inside of a monitor looks like.
Regards, Jacqueline
......greetz rich
http://www.newark.com/illinois-capacitor/108ckh035m/capacitor-alum-elect-1000uf-35v/dp/69K7912
RS's description for the part number you used is: 1000µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor which I got to by following your original link.
And the other one I was lookin at is described as:CAPACITOR ALUM ELECT 1000UF, 35V, RADIAL
Am I reading something completely wrong? I'm learning as I go so anything you can do to educate me is always appreciated. Is it possible the newer one from RS might be too high voltage as well?
I checked the entire card for bad solder joints, bad capacitors, but found no visible defects. Is there anything more I can do?
I have a HP VS 17e . I have yet changed two bulging caps.The screen switch on but are white. The menu do not appear the only key running is the power key.
Can any one tell me a solution?
http://boredprojects.blogspot.com/2009/09/hpvs19e-monitor-fix.html