Replace LCD Backlight Inverter on Any Monitor For






Introduction: Replace LCD Backlight Inverter on Any Monitor For

Step 1:



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      Great turorial, i only have one question - Do the brightness controls still work with this method?

      Nope, the inverter that I used doesn't support brightness controls. The only way to retain brightness control would be to purchase and install an inverter with it, which would likely push the cost up towards what a replacement inverter or board would cost for your monitor.

      Is it possible to restore original brightness control through relays? How would you go about doing so?

      You can't restore the brightness with a relay, but you could replace the turn on switch with a relay. To restore brightness control you have to modulate the output to the backlights, that's why those inverters for the computer "neon" are so cheap because they have no brightness controls. Adding a relay is simple, just find the original turn on wire to the inverter and hook it up to a transistor, have the transistor power the relay coil and wire the +12V to the inverter through the relay. Adding brightness control isn't worth it, you'd be better off buying a replacement inverter board, or, with the prices of monitors, a new 19" monitor :-(

      I just did this for my 10.4" touchscreen in my car. Worked great, I only needed one inverter. I had all the wires backwards the first time and it didn't fry, after I got them right it was nice and bright. Thanks

      Very good job guys! With this guide a old dead monitor return to life! This is my experience So i find at only 9,90 EURO a kit for pc with neon cold cathode and inverter (just like I've seen in thi sguide) for a desktop pc. First for the power to inverter I use the original cable, go down insiede my desktop pc and work pretty well but...only for 5 hours! Damn, i retry with 2 inverter, one form a transparency adaptor of my old scanner and another from a fan with neon...and 12 hours later is functional! I assumed the problem of my first inverter is too cheap ad the eat on the monitor plastic chassis damage the inverter, already now my monitor as 1/2 pastic chassic and the eat is dissipate quiet good... :-)

      My HP Laptop's monitor is flickering intermittently. It's only 2 years old. I wonder if it's the backlight or the inverter. Can someone help me diagnose it? A new LCD part cost $120, the inverter, $15.

      1. If I use the function keys to dim the LCD brightness to about 50%, the monitor "usually" will not flicker. But it is very hard on the eyes since it is a bit dark.

      2. If I turn the monitor to full brightness, as I like to since it's easier on the eyes, the flickering is intermittent. When it does act up, first the sections of the screen flicker horizontally to black, on and off very quickly, then eventually goes black altogether. But I can still see the inprint of the page in the background.

      Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.

      Sounds like the inverter is dying. Usually if the backlight goes you'll get funky colors or an inconsistency in the light output, whereas if the inverter goes the light with flicker, not work or dim. Swapping an inverter is very simple, usually its nothing more than removing the trim bezel (screws usually under the rubber feet around the bezel), removing a screw or two and 3 electrical connections, and then plugging the new one back in.

      "found a labeled power wire running +12VDC to the main monitor board. I momentarily pulled that to ground and found about 3.5 amps"... I'm wondering (since the only electronics knowledge I have is coming from reading stuff), is this a good/correct/safe (for the powersupply) way to find out how much power a certain component can give? I'm doing the same thing as you did on the instructable and am in the process of looking where to tap power from as well.. It seems like a logical way of finding out, I'm just figuring it's pretty much the same a short circuiting a circuit, no? thanx for the instructable!


      The best way to do this is to:
      Find the 12V power regulator (should look like a 3 legged transistor bolted to a chunk of aluminum), write down the part number and look up the regulator on google or a datasheet website. On the datasheet someplace there will be a current output, that's what it can provide.

      Either that or grab a resistor and do what I did above, you could calculate the voltage drop/current and figure out what it's able to provide without dead shorting it.

      Let me know if I can help with anything else.