Step 8: Install the lower headset bearings

TIP - as you go, clean and add grease to the bearings and bearing races

Install the lower dustcap on to the bearing cup.

Install the bearings. If they are in a bearing retaining ring, slide that ring on to the fork and bearing cup. If they are individual bearings, install them into the headset bearing race in the frame.

Insert the fork into the frame.

Install the front wheel into the fork.

CAREFULLY turn the bike right-side-up, so that it's resting on its wheels again.
<p>It's really easy to get the star nut crooked this was. So, here's a tip to make sure the star nut stays straight in the steer tube.</p><p>After the star nut clears the top of the steer tube by about 1/4 inch, take a deep well socket that fits closely inside the steer tube. You want it as close to the same size as possible without it actually rubbing. Set it on top of the star nut and use a rubber or wooden mallet or hammer with a piece of wood so you don't damage the socket and hammer the socket until it pushes the starnut to the proper depth. The socket will evenly push the starnut down the tube and it's almost impossible to end up with it crooked.</p>
<p>it is quite funny, since i had the exact same &quot;problem&quot; like you: guy at the bike store said, that my bike is quite old and still uses 1 inch and in combination with my old disc break caliper there was only one fork he could order - an rst fork<br><br>just now i assembled the new fork and was just about to insert the new tube in the frame, when i noticed, the thread of the new steerer tube is too small<br>the old tube has printed 25,4 mm on it, the nut has printed 25,4 mm on it - but if you use calipers to measure them, you'll find out that it is not true - they have an inner diameter of exaclty 1 inch / 25,4 mm but the outer diameter is in fact 1,125 inch <br><br>so i can repeat your advice: do your measurement first and don't trust what is written on your bike, do your measurements :D</p>
No wonder I couldn't find any spacers! <br>For real though, great project, I 95.5% perfer on hand McGyverism to &quot;buy it new&quot;. Disk brakes are fab, but pad repacement makes my wallet cry, so I went (back to) Old School. Nice 'ible :)
ANSWER bars? <br>I thought this was the ghetto?
Yo, I can pimp my ride if I want! Stop oppressing me! ;)
I love cantilever &quot;center-pull&quot; brakes like in the picture, simple and they work. I absolutely hate V-brakes. They never work correctly and one side always rubs against the rim.
Hello, <br>I have been trying to find a goose neck like that, to mount on my seat post. What brand is it? are they outrageously expensive (most mountain bike parts are for me)? Any and all help will be appreciated.<br>Thanks,<br>Jesse
This particular unit is a &quot;Zoom&quot; stem, and I think it's like 90 or 110mm long. I got all of my stufff online, and I think that you can get it from walmart.com if you want to. Really, you should go to Amazon.com or bikeman.com and just search for &quot;adjustable stem threadless&quot; and you will find tons of these, usually around $25 to $30 (or more, of course, but that's about what I paid). <br> <br>Be sure to measure your seat post - most stems are made for 1 1/8 inch fork steerer tubes and 1 inch handlebars. You can get a 1 inch to 1 1/8 inch spacer for the stem if your seat tube is smaller.
Interesting, I've never seen a fork with a split steerer clamp.<br />
I hadn't seen one either, and that's the main thing I wanted to share with the readers - that, and the Tektro cable stop so that the cantilever brakes could still be used.<br />
Yeah, you can get quite a lot of converters and things for bikes nowadays, like things that can make a bike without a disc mount have disc brakes, and something that you can use to split two cables into one so you can run both brakes off one lever!<br />
One new thing I&nbsp;found that relates to this fork project is a through-bolt that is used to instead of the star nut to hold the&nbsp; stem top cap.&nbsp; However, it costs about 10 times as much as a star nut, even with the long driver-bolt that I&nbsp;recommend using to install it.<br />
Another thing you can get doesn't require a star bolt is this http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/?fn=product&amp;productId=547&amp;categoryId=66 when you tighten it, it expands and it can be removed when changing the fork...you just have to remove the old star bolt first, and they don't like being removed! i know that from experience lol.<br />

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