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Your new digitizer will have a bit of plastic on the back protecting the adhesive strips. Remove this and carefully align the new digitizer on the front of the LCD. Before you install it, make sure there isn't any foreign matter on the back side of the digitizer or else you'll be stuck with dust particles in the display for the rest of eternity.
Thanks-this really was a lifesaver in swapping mine for a glass digitizer. Nobody else on the web had good step-by-step pics with a description.
Just a couple of suggestions/clarifications that might help somebody else out:
1. The black plastic "top" (where the power button resides) also has to comes away at some point in step 3 (or at least doing so seemed to make it easier for me).
2. My plastic digitizer (the one being removed) actually was in 2 layers. I probably could have removed the whole thing in one step, but took off a very thin plastic layer first. (This layer included the thin ribbon cable).
Then I realized there was a second, thicker plastic layer beneath it. Wasn't sure it was supposed to come off, but I took it off anyway. I found that the LCD itself actually has a metal edge (aluminum colored) the whole way around and the thicker layer of plastic was actually adhering to it. So when you are removing the digitizer from the LCD, if you are getting all the way to the metal edge, you will be able to remove the entire digitizer in one step.
3. Found that after replacing everything, it helped to delete a 3rd party app that I had previously been using to try to make my ailing digitizer work. After removing this software and doing a reset, I then used the TX's native calibration tool in "Preferences" and everything was better than when my TX was new!
Thanks FM, I'm glad this was useful to you. When I went to find instructions on how to do this, I couldn't find anything either, which is exactly why I made this instructable.
I actually did mention the top coming off, but it was kind of unclear from my wording. I've gone ahead and fixed that in step 3. Also, for some reason all my paragraphs disappeared at some point, so the text was kind of crammed together. I've gone back now and fixed my formatting as well.
My digitizer came off pretty easy, and all in one piece. I wonder if it was like yours? I'll go and check later on.
Also, that's weird about the 3rd party app. I think there's something wrong with my palm, as the native calibration tool doesn't work at all, and I had to use a third party application.
Thanks for the positive feedback, it's always great to hear when one of my instructables helped someone out!
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Like me on Facebook, my poor, fragile ego needs a boost! I post updates about my current projects, and the occasional sneak peak at upcoming instructables! ======================= depotdevoid is short for The Depot Devoid of Thought, the place where you go when you lose your train of thought and you're waiting for the next thought train to pick you up. The depot represents a fairly high level of absent mindedness and ease of being distracted, as well as a love of seeing what will pique my interest next, and where that idea will take me. ======================= I am a ball bearing salesman by day and a mad scientist by night (and on the weekends). I love making and learning about all sorts of things, and while I'll never be the best at any one thing, I am reasonably competent in many areas. ======================= I hope you enjoy my instructables, please take a moment to subscribe!
Just a couple of suggestions/clarifications that might help somebody else out:
1. The black plastic "top" (where the power button resides) also has to comes away at some point in step 3 (or at least doing so seemed to make it easier for me).
2. My plastic digitizer (the one being removed) actually was in 2 layers. I probably could have removed the whole thing in one step, but took off a very thin plastic layer first. (This layer included the thin ribbon cable).
Then I realized there was a second, thicker plastic layer beneath it. Wasn't sure it was supposed to come off, but I took it off anyway. I found that the LCD itself actually has a metal edge (aluminum colored) the whole way around and the thicker layer of plastic was actually adhering to it. So when you are removing the digitizer from the LCD, if you are getting all the way to the metal edge, you will be able to remove the entire digitizer in one step.
3. Found that after replacing everything, it helped to delete a 3rd party app that I had previously been using to try to make my ailing digitizer work. After removing this software and doing a reset, I then used the TX's native calibration tool in "Preferences" and everything was better than when my TX was new!
I actually did mention the top coming off, but it was kind of unclear from my wording. I've gone ahead and fixed that in step 3. Also, for some reason all my paragraphs disappeared at some point, so the text was kind of crammed together. I've gone back now and fixed my formatting as well.
My digitizer came off pretty easy, and all in one piece. I wonder if it was like yours? I'll go and check later on.
Also, that's weird about the 3rd party app. I think there's something wrong with my palm, as the native calibration tool doesn't work at all, and I had to use a third party application.
Thanks for the positive feedback, it's always great to hear when one of my instructables helped someone out!