FIRST - NEVER WORK ON THIS UNIT POWERED UP
Once you have the unit open do not touch anything on the main (high voltage) board. You will not like it if a capacitor discharges and nails you. Won't kill you but it will hurt like hell.
If you are like me you really like or love pawn shops.
Recently I found this Phillips model #47PFL3603D 47 inch TV. I have waited a long time to get one. In case you did not notice I am poor so this makes me a resourceful maker. This repair will work for the following models also.
I have tried to make this Instrutcable as complete as possible. If you think I have missed a part or been unclear in a step please say so so that we can make this more complete. Sometimes I assume that you have done a particular step and sometimes miss the step altogether.
Step 1: Deal With the No Power Issue
I got the TV for $125 and it had a no power condition. However the giveaway that it would be a great deal was that there was a tag on the side of the unit that read $280. So this unit was marked down because it was damaged in the store. They claimed that one of the pins in the power socket were pushed back. I found this to be true after a quick inspection in the store. Sorry no pics of the damage. But here is the repair as i did it. I collected a blanket that is known to NOT be a static monster. One zap and you have an #80 paper weight to set the unit face down without damaging the screen. For reference NEVER do this with a plasma screen because you will fry the screen.
1. There are 4 #2 Phillips screws that hold the base onto the unit. Remove these. I did this with the unit upright on the base. Once the screws are removed carefully lift the TV straight up off the stand and set it on it's bottom edge and then carefully tip it over face down. You might want to get some help as the screen without the base is still heavy and unruly.
2. Once you have the unit face down; there are 18 #8 Torx screws along the perimeter of the back shell. Remove all of these screws. Once you have these all removed go to the I/O panel and remove the two screws located in the middle of the panel. There are also one in the side panel I/O ports.
3. Lastly remove the remaining screw next to the power port.
Now the back shell should lift off with almost no effort. Set the shell aside for later cleaning.
4. At this point I removed the power port from the center of the unit mount and unplugged it from the high voltage board. The socket has "squeeze" latches to release it.
Once I had the socket removed it was time to correct the terminal issue.
Check my pics and you can see the diagram of the pin connector. I lifted the locking tabs gently and reinserted them into the socket. I had to do this with the other pin as well as it was loose. Should you have to do this don not be rough with the tabs as they will break easily.
Once the pins were locked in I reinstalled the socket in the holder and plugged it into the power board.
For all the screw locations please check my pic that has all the locations. The only one not listed is the one in the I/O side panel. This is opposite side of the power button side.
Step 2: Check the Remote to Make Sure It Is Working
Because the remote works on an infrared bandwidth you can not see it normally. I used my camera and took the picture while I held the power button. Most cameras can see IR and will record it so you can see it. As you can see here my remote is working as it should.
Do not skip this step as you may be wasting your time and money without the proper diagnoses.
Step 3: Replace the Failed IR Board
This was easy to do. The board is located in the lower left hand corner and is held in with one T8 screw on the right side of the board. This board costs anywhere from $8 to $20 depending on where you get it from.
I plugged in the two cables before installing it in the holder because these ports are easily broken. The smaller one is easy to get in backwards. There should be no force needed to plug in the cables.
Make sure the window for the IR eye is clean. If it is dirty the unit will have spotty performance or may not work at all.
Once you have the cables plugged into the board insert it in the holder and replace the T8 screw.
Step 4: Reassembly Time
Before reassembly make sure the inside of the unit is clean. Use canned air or something similar to remove the debris and dust. Make sure that the heat sinks are clean so they are efficient.
Now clean the back shell. I used Spic and Span spray and a garden hose. Then I used compressed air from my compressor to remove all water from the shell. To make certain it was dry I left it for an hour and the blew it off one more time.
Now install the T8 screws to all the locations indicated in the back photo. They are all the same length so it does not matter which screw you use until you get to the power socket and the two on the rear I/O ports.
Next install the unit on its stand if you intend to use a stand for your unit rather than a wall mount. Don't cheat here make sure you install all four screws even if you are going to wall mount the unit. This will make it much easier to find the screws should you have to use the stand later. You will thank me for this step.
Step 5: Time to Power Up the Unit.
Install the power cable and at least on input. Don't bother setting up all of your surround sound stuff right now as we are just testing the unit. I used my Chromecast for my testing input.
Once you have tested the unit and it is working correctly go ahead and hook up the rest of your stuff.
Now take in a movie and enjoy.