So gradually over the last two years or so, we have been experiencing a decline in the ability to use the control knob on our LG washer - Model WM2032HW. The cycle selection knob was a type that selected electronically, and the electrical contacts I figured were either wearing out or developed some issue. This control knob was integrated into an electronic "User Interface" board and needed replacing.
How hard could it be?
Well what I found out was that it is not hard at all. Now I am not a professional installer, and took on the install at my own risk, if choose to do your own install you run the same risk. For me this replacement was simple and straightforward, and would have taken anyone no more than half hour. Including taking the pictures I did this replacement in about 15min.
Step 1: Get the Part Ordered.
Before anything, you will need the correct part. I searched for the "LG WM2032HW parts" and found the LG part number listed for the user interface board. A second search using LG and the part number, readily located suppliers for the part. I ordered mine for about $80 through a vendor on Amazon.
Step 2: Disconnect Water and Power
The installation begins, as always with electrical equipment, with the disconnection of the power, and the water. The LG model I have has a separate supply for hot and cold, so take note which is which. If your hoses are color coded like mine, do not presume that they were installed red for hot and blue for cold. Mine were reversed - blue for hot, red for cold?!
Step 3: Removing the Access Panel on the Back
The access to the board is gained through a cover panel on the back of the washer. Pull it out from the wall (if you have not done so already) and locate the screws. On my LG there were seven, three across the top, three across the bottom, and one in the middle. Note the differences in screw sizes as they come out, and if you wish, mark them for where they go back. I had two different sizes. The cover then lifts away easily.
Inside you will note the control board, and a whole bunch of wires and stuff that you can ignore. The user interface board is sandwiched between that control board and the metal housing of the washer, inside of a plastic frame. The whole top unit can now be tilted forward and laid face down on top of your washer. This will allow you to easily get the rest of the job done.
Step 4: Removing the Electronics Module From the Housing
Look for the retaining screws that hold this plastic frame/housing in place and remove them. The plastic frame can now be pulled away from the metal housing, and you will get your first glimpse of your culprit - the broken user interface board.
Step 5: Detach Electronic Board Wiring and Control Button.
You will note that the two boards are connected using three sets of wire. There are two sets of data cables with the multitude of colors - the geek out there could tell you the proper name for them - and a power supply cable.
These are all removed from the control board side. There are clips that hold these in place that are easily released by pressing down. You should take care to pull these out with care - they can take some effort though, just don't torque them back and forth, and don't pull on the cable but use the plastic fitting.
Remove the power cable from the brackets in the housing.
The control knob is needed for the replacement board (unless you ordered one with it). It is made up of two parts: an outer transparent cover, and the silver button itself. While it might be possible to pull both the cover and button off in one piece, I found that it would not. I removed the outer cover by prying. The inside button was then able to be removed from it's spindle.
Step 6: Remove the User Interface Board From the Housing
The user interface board is held in the housing by clips along one side, and small preformed brackets along the other side. The brackets are not flexible, and you should not attempt to remove the board along that edge. Rather squeeze the clips with a pair of long nose pliers (or your choice of weapon) but don't squeeze it too far or else the clips will break. I squeezed each of the the three clips just past the edge of the board, and then used the end of a small flat screwdriver to pry the board up and away from the clips.
Step 7: Fitting the New Board.
Now that the old board is out, the new board goes in exactly the way the old one came out.
Fit the bottom of the board into the brackets in the housing, and make sure the board is lined up with the housing. Then press the board into place so the the retaining clips snap into place.
Next, plug the data cables into the control board. Apply pressure at the ends of the plastic fittings and not on the cables themselves.
The power cable should be fitted to the brackets along the outside of the plastic housing, and then plugged into the power supply on the control board. After plugging it in, make sure the cable goes through the opening in the plastic housing.
Step 8: Closing It Up and Testing.
So now with the board fitted and plugged in the electronics module can be screwed back in place. and the metal housing unit returned to it's position atop the washer. The back access cover is screwed back on, and hoses refitted, and power plugged back in.
Now test it, and make sure you didn't get a dud board from your supplier!
I hope that this helps, if only to show how basic a replacement part like this can be to install. If you use this instructable to assist with a different model, I hope that it helps, and let me know how it went.