Replacing the stereo jack on Sansa c200 series by dyril
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Eventually, the headphone jack on a Sansa c200 series breaks (near the terminal for the left audio channel). It's happened twice to me personally, so I just assume it's a common problem.

This mod replaces the jack with an inline female stereo connector. It can wiggle freely in all directions. Whether or not it looks good is besides the point of correcting a design flaw. 

The approach I took should even work for other audio players or similar devices, although I could understand how the implementation may be bothersome to users: the combined length of jack and plug is as long as the c200 itself. It's still portable IMO, especially if you've put a lanyard on yours, too.

DISCLAIMER
I've documented this only after having already modded 1 of 2 sansa c240s I own, so some of the critical steps may be unclear and/or difficult to reproduce, and I overall feel this method is slightly difficult to execute, given the YMMV factor; it only took me 2 years to even consider trying. At any rate, I plan to mod the second sansa later. If it turns out successful, I guess I will revise my advice to sound more optimistic.

I recommend you read the entire instructable before starting, and take a close look at the original 1280x800 images if at any point things are unclear. The precision required for this mod is beyond my preference, especially the soldering involved.

 
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Step 1: Geekspeak you can skip: more background info and design thoughts

The stereo jack on the Sansa line of portable media players is custom-fabricated for compactness. As such with surface-mount (SMT) technology, my best guess to explain the problem's prevalence is that while the solder points of the jack are done okay and may remain intact, the circuit traces leading up to the terminals are too thin and therefore prone to breakage caused by inevitable stress from temperature changes and tugs/wobbles of plugged-in headphones.  The trace for the left audio channel is most likely to break; the jack's entrance being flush and stable at the shell can act as a pivot for plug wobbles and so by its large radial distance from the shell, the left channel's terminal is subject to the most stress forces.

A possible ideal alternative to the jack used is one that is essentially like the neighboring, springy battery connector, which also has three terminals (which is why this solution seems obvious). The jack would snap or friction fit into the casing, and make contact with wider traces on the PCB once assembled. All stress would be taken by the shell, with springy room to buffer against the PCB. Alas, the level of precision required for this is best done by professionals, and even then the space required by this suspension system could be difficult to allot in such miniature device designs. It's actually more likely an issue of this complexity incurring more cost, but I digress.

The elegance of my mod is that the replacement jack is virtually decoupled from the PCB so it shouldn't ever fail unless the jack is ripped off, which is probably this implementation's greatest obvious weakness.
whyexactly says: Oct 10, 2010. 11:00 AM
I made that same solder bridge from the resistor to where the jack gets soldered on, only I used a small piece of wire. It only took a second and thus far works great.
dyril (author) says: Oct 12, 2010. 1:25 PM
Great! That's exactly what most people should be able to do.

Unless there are others who ripped out the old jack entirely lol
nailknot says: Jun 23, 2011. 1:46 PM
You can purchase this stereo connector at monoprice.com for less than .97
jwilcox3 says: Jun 19, 2011. 10:29 AM
I made a solder bridge, as suggested by whyexactly. I took a one eighth inch length of copper wire, placed it between the two points, set a small piece of solder in the middle, and touched the iron to it. Only took a second is right. Thanks!!
jpnagle59 says: Jul 23, 2010. 5:13 PM
Hey there, I have come across this problem also, on other devices too. I have never had them break during the warranty period- OF COURSE! So as soon as the device is out of warranty, I open 'er up, and surround the head-phone jack with RTV (silicone sealant). By doing so, you get rid of the 'pivot' , or make it last longer. I pretty much do this with all my MP player's, and I also do it for a couple kids that live around me. They are always coming to me to fix there stuff...:)
Scott_Tx says: Jun 16, 2010. 10:36 AM
amen on the bad headphone plugs. how can you make a music player and not get that part right.
depotdevoid says: Jun 16, 2010. 7:03 AM
Very nice instructable, my roommate's been using his C200 has a thumb drive for the last year or two because of this problem, but now he says he'll give this a try. Thanks, and 5 stars!
Hello Kitty says: Jun 15, 2010. 11:20 PM
YAY!!! THANK YOU!!!
Paetzer Sawze says: Jun 15, 2010. 8:31 PM
Very helpful tutorial! Those sansa mp3 players are quite notorious for having easily damaged stereo jacks, even for some of the more recent models. I never thought about fixing the problem in this manner, but I may just try it out now.
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