Step 6: Optional - Suck out any oil

If your gasket failed like mine, you're gonna need to pull some excess oil out of the plug wells. A plastic turkey baster comes in handy here :P I used a pipette - it is what I had.

If there's only a little oil, you can just pull the plugs and let it drain into the cylinder -- it will burn off when you start up. I did this with the little bit of oil I could not recover.
<p>I doubt I would ever do that myself, but it was really helpful to go through it on theory :)<br>Thank you!</p>
It helps me,I dare to say ,you need it.\ <br>www.oilseals-sto.com
Regardless of purpose for this instructable, this is an excellent primer for anyone new to engine internals. Well done, for other vehicles people should be aware that not all sections can use RTV silicone. Take a Pontiac firefly, Chevy sprint, Geo metro, Suzuki swift, etc... that has the G3 motor, it has a oil seal off the cam shaft that is bisected by the valve cover. No RTV silicone can go here, but whats more important is the prep. In the groove for this seal you have to be UBER careful not to gouge the aluminum while scraping out old gasket material, or it will forever leak. just a thought for others applying this instructable to there type of car.
I'm thinking buying a<a href="http://www.car-stuff.com/valvecovergasketset.htm" rel="nofollow"> valve cover gasket set</a> since my&nbsp; valve has been mess up. thanks to this blog its been very helpful. now I know how to change my valve cover gasket.<br />
This was very helpful. A first time evolution for me. I think I was successful in replacing my valve cover gasket on my 96 saturn SL2, but when I tightened up the bolts the one at the very center of the valve cover seems to be stripped in the hole. My local NAPA guy says its a relatively easy fix, and I can probably drive it for awhile like this with no problem. I guess time will tell. What do you folks think? I just found this site and it is GREAT. Thanks again!
Dude, get a Honda. They are cheap used and are very reliable. My family has a 92 Honda Accord, NO OIL LEAKS.
My 89' Toyota Corolla Wagon 304,000miles, no leaks, everything works, great car.
Statistically, they're also the most commonly broken into auto ;) My current car is a 2000 VW Jetta -- and I'm very happy. Cheaper than comparable Hondas (I really don't care about future resale value anyway). And no check engine light as everyone warned me about :D
the 2006 vw transporter rules,but the new crafter volt is bigger...my school buses are mostly crafter volt,ford and iveco
I replaced the EGR actuator, IAC, and something else in there, DOHC saturns are pretty fast little cars, better than any honda.
Don't worry, contrary to what people are saying a car won't die as easy as you'd think, examples from cars my family have had are ridiculous... Vw passat 1.9D - exhaust fell of but messed up the turbo pressures, the turbo blew up (apparently the engine could hack the overkill boost but the bearings went and whammy) 20 miles from home and at a top speed of 25 it got home and lived after new turbo and exhaust Mitsubushi colt 1.8 I think - Unleaded engine heads running on four star... Couldn't keep oil in it, it just shot it out the exhaust but ran great (cylinder rings or such just a bad seal) did 150k with us and ws sold to a guy who slapped and evo turbo on and it hacked that for a while. Volvo 740 2.3 or 2.4 - everything was wrong but it could go like the wind (two tonnes of wind that is) despite no real air filter system, due to the fact that the exhaust manifold srpung a leak and burnt a fair amount of the innards no serious damage oddly as fuel lines were out of the way, it had been on fire a few times and I hit the house with it when i was a kid but it soldiered on until 260k but we parkeed her up during a few lean months and the taxman took her Puegot 306 1.9Dturbo again fast for what it was but wrecked more than once, my mum slid into a ditch to avoid an oncoming tractor and cows... a pole got jammed about a foot deep into the bonnet and she drove home alternator and battery were moody and every now and again the ecu chip had moods which ranged for blasting half a tank of fuel into each cylinder to just choking the car at any given time. I ahve many more stories but my point was that whne it comes right down to it a car can live through almost anything normal life can throw at but timing belts etc can kill it, the perishables like them are dangerous to it but oil can be forgotten (try not to though) and small repairs can wait as long as you're prepared to get your hands dirty being and off the cuff mechanic (best line ever had to be 'okay ma im going to figure out a work around till we get some duct tape, BTW any cable ties'...) well written and to the point and solved your problem...
Wow that was great, thanks for the great pics too they really help. I have the same exact engine so this was perfect!!
okay, serously dude. if you were to re-do this, i would highly, highly recomend not to use a metal scraper, because that may, and most likely will, cause damage by scraping off bits of metal, meaning your gasket, pre-formed or not, will not seal right, and secondly, if your car was leaking that badly, the problem should have been dealt with before it got this far, this is pretty bad. on my truck, which is a 283 small block V8, I had to replace all the gaskets, and basically re-build the engine and i found that using an old credit card or similar, like a plastic scraper, will work better. it will remove most of the build up and old gasket, and it wont damage the block or the valve cover. i also use an air compressor and tools with that such as a grinder, small grinder, very small, but i use that and it's so that you keep your entire area flat, instead of multiple surfaces, your gaskets need to function right, using metal scrapers will damage it, most likely
This is great! Waaaaaaay better than my Hayne's Manual. Thanks!!!

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Bio: Engineer making renewable energy products for African entrepreneurs.
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