This is a simple tutorial on how you can create these cool spike charms for a piece of jewelry. Hopefully you could be inspired to use the same techniques to create something similar if you do not like the look of the spikes. I originally posted this tutorial on Cut Out and Keep, but I'm hoping it will get a little more love over here!

You will need:
- A mould maker e.g siligum
- Fimo/sculpey
- eye pins
- Resin
- Chain & Jump rings (For full necklace)

Tools - Wire cutters and Round nose pliers

Step 1: Decide on Shape

To start, make your desired shape of 'spike' out of fimo. After inserting an eye pin into the top of it, bake it according to the instructions on the packet.

If you have somthing which you really like the shape of use it! These are only necessary in order to make the mould.

I am showing you this part of the process with a slightly different spike, as I did not take photos of the originals for the first few steps.

Step 2: Make the Mould(s)

Mix the two parts of the siligum mould and press your fimo spike/shape into it and leave it to set for 5 minutes. The eye pin comes in handy once the mould has set, as it makes it easy to pull out your shape. You will need to make a few moulds so that you are able to make many spikes at once (I made 7).

If you are not sure what siligum is/don't know how to use it then you can YouTube it! There are loads of helpful siligum tutorials which will show you exactly what to do.

Step 3: Supporting Wire

Take a bit of wire and bend it at a right angle. I used a long eye pin and just cut off the eye part.

Step 4: Insert Into Mould

Stick it into the top of your mould making sure that it doesn't pierce through into the hole that your spike has left, which is where the resin is going to go. The wire should cross over the top this 'hole' in your mould.
(The purpose of this bit of wire will become clear soon)

Step 5:

Mix your resin according to the instructions on the pack. Again, there are many YouTube videos on this if you are confused. I would also recommend having a back-up mould because if your spike moulds are very small like mine, it is likely that you'll have a lot of resin left over once you have filled them.

I added a teeny blob of white acrylic paint to my resin to get a white milky effect for my charms - but this is optional.

You can rotate the wire out of the way when pouring in the resin.

Step 6: Eye Pin

Take an eye pin and cut off the end so that it is very small. Then bend the end of the pin up slightly to form a teeny hook.

I bent it like this because this is what I always do when using eye pins in fimo so that they have no chance of slipping out once it has been baked. I am not sure f it is necessary with resin, but I did it to be safe.

Step 7: Insert the Eye Pins

Take the tiny hooked eye pin and slide it onto the supporting wire which is over the resin mould. The hooked part should be submerged in the resin, with the 'eye' sticking out above the surface

The supporting wire holds the eye pin in place as the resin cures.

Step 8:

Resin takes around 24 hours to set but can take longer. Once it has cured you can take it out of the mould - but be careful when handling your pieces - if they haven't cured fully you could squish them out of shape. If you have added colour to your resin it is likely that they will need slightly longer to set completely.

As you can see here, when removing my piece I simply gripped the supporting wire using my pliers, and pulled the whole thing out along with the spike. This method is a lot easier than if you were to try slide the charm off the supporting wire before removing it.