A wall clock seemed a perfect fit to learn colors - it's something you might look at a number of times per day, it has roughly the right number of digits/colors, and it's generally useful anyway. So I set out designing and after cycling through a couple other designs, I settled on using acrylic parts - beige for the resistor cores, gray for the inner and outer "wires" - glued together with electrical tape wrapped around. It's certainly possible to make it into one big piece of acrylic and painting the cores, but this seemed like more of a challenge and a bit more fun. The clock is 10" in diameter, a good medium sized clock.
Now there's a great new way to learn the color codes and eliminate the need for a google search every time I'm working with resistors!
Step 1: Supplies
- 11 x 11 x 1/8" ivory acrylic (TAP Plastics)
- 11 x 11 x 1/8" dark gray acrylic (TAP Plastics)
- Clock movement (Amazon)
- Rainbow electric tape (Amazon) - need black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, gray, & white
- 1 AA battery (wherever)
Step 2: Cut Acrylic
I had some trouble with file formats and compatibility, so here's what I ended up doing. I created the design in Inventor Fusion, which conveniently does not export into any files that CorelDraw 11 was able (or willing) to import. So I ended up exporting from Inventor Fusion as .stp, importing that into Inventor, and exporting as a .dwg. Problem is, CorelDraw 11 also refuses to read those. So then I imported the .dwg's that I just exported back into Inventor and exported them as .pdf's. CorelDraw 11 was able to read those, thankfully. However, the .dwg's were exported as white, so I had to correctly scale and change the color to black (and thickness to hairline).
Hopefully it'll all work smoothly for you!
The "ResistorCenters" file contains all 12 "resistor" cores, the square outline I thought I'd use as a frame around the clock movement but ended up breaking to use as the reinforcing struts, and an outer ring that could be used on the clock but was used more for scaling the file in CorelDraw than anything else.
The "Wires" file contains the outer rim, three hubs with slightly different length arms (to make sure the interfaces with the cores are flush), and a few small rings you can use on the clock face-movement interface if you want.
Once you've finished cutting, carefully remove the masking from all the parts to reveal the beauty that lies below.
Step 3: Apply Tape to "resistor" Centers
Grab the ivory acrylic resistor cores and all the rolls of electrical tape. For 1-9, apply a single strip of tape once around the part, making sure that one of the sides doesn't have any evidence of the ends of the tape strip. For 10-12, cut the tape down the middle to make pairs of half-width colors - this way the clock will look more uniform overall. I placed them so that on 10-12 there's a space between the two strips - especially important for 11 (Brown-Brown) to distinguish it from 1. Also for 10-12, I chose to orient the colors so you read the number going radially outward, so Brown is on the inside, with Black/Brown/Red on the outside.
The number-color correlation is below:
Step 4: Glue Parts Together
First, use a funnel to pour the acrylic cement into the hypo applicator or, as noahw pointed out to me, you can simply suck the cement straight into the hypo applicator. For a good tutorial on this step and gluing acrylic overall, check out TAP's tutorial here.
In the following steps, it doesn't matter exactly which colors/numbers you use, but the order (i.e. the successive resistors and their relation to one another) worked for me. I just didn't want to go clockwise only to find that things didn't fit nicely as I got farther around; instead, I did opposite sides in succession. There are many permutations of the order I chose - do what you think! Be patient with this step - acrylic sets fairly fast but not instantaneously. Also keep in mind that the cement essentially melts any acrylic it touches, so be careful with have scrap pieces underneath. It's good to keep the parts you're connecting off of any surface at the interface - this eliminates any chance that your parts will stick to something accidentally. Finally, you may want to glue your cores upside down - then, if you have a couple stray drops, you haven't ruined the front face of your clock. If you do it upside-down, be careful with where you put 3 and 9 (and all others, for that matter) - if it's upside-down, it'll be mirrored!
- Lay down the outer rim and put the inner hub somewhere near the center.
- Place the 12 resistor (brown side toward the center) between outer and inner gray pieces. Press the resistor and the outer rim together, and apply cement to the interface. Hold for a couple minutes.
- Press the center hub against the other end of the resistor and apply cement to the interface. Hold for a couple minutes.
- Repeat steps 2 & 3 in the following order: 6 (blue), 3 (orange), 9 (white), 1 (brown), 7 (violet), 5 (green), 11 (brown-brown), 8 (gray), 2 (red), 10 (brown-black), 4 (yellow)
Once you've finished with the gluing above, you may want to add supporting struts to add to the strength of the interfaces. I did this for a little extra toughness and definitely for peace of mind. These are shown in the last few photos. Note: make sure you glue these on the back!
Step 5: Attach Clock Movement
- Main body/movement
- Rubber gasket
- Brass washer
- Mounting nut
- Hour hand
- Minute hand
- Second hand+open nut OR cap nut