Restore a Rusty Old Tackle Box With Sand Blasting & Powder Coating

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Introduction: Restore a Rusty Old Tackle Box With Sand Blasting & Powder Coating

About: Trying to learn faster than I forget. It will be cool to make some stuff along the way.

I found this ratty old tackle box in a pile of junk on the side of the road waiting for a dump run. How cool would that be if I restored it?!?
The top was just about rusted through, the hinges were frozen, the latch was rusted shut, but it was straight and still solid, so I gave it a go. There was lots of surface rust on the top and a bit on the insides and the rest was covered in the original paint.

The restoration is a basic two part process:
The first step is to sand blast and remove all paint and rust to expose a clean bare surface.
Next is to powder coat the inside, bake it, powder coat the outside, and bake it again.



Step 1: Clean the Tackle Box

This box was pretty fouled up, so into the sand blaster it went for some deep exfoliation!
There were a lot of surfaces to get to. Each time I pulled it out for inspection I found a new area that had not been touched.

I wear mechanic's gloves inside the sandblaster's rubber gloves for sanitary sanity - it gets pretty warm in there under the bright lights.

Step 2: Prep Tackle Box for Powder

Preheat oven according to powder manufacturers instruction.  Mine is a silver color that bakes at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 minutes.

With the box all blasted and bare, I blew out all the sand residue in preparation for the powder coat.
A quick rinse with degreaser gets rid of any residues of oil, and then air dry with the shop air hose.

Set up powder coating equipment.

Step 3: Powder Coat the Inside of the Tackle Box

I decided to do the interior first.

I'm using a silver powder that I got from http://www.powderbuythepound.com

Step 4: Bake the Tackle Box

Since the outside was not coated yet, I just put the box on the rack.

Ten minutes at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for my silver powder. Set a timer for consistency.

Notice how the soft powdery surface melts into a nice tough coating.

Step 5: Powder Coat the Outside of the Tackle Box

Now comes the tricky part - I had to hang the box for coating the outside surfaces.
I twisted up some wire into two hooks to hold the box handle somewhat level in the oven.

Powder coating the outside was a bit easier - there are only six surfaces!

Step 6: Bake the Tackle Box Again

This time the hook was used to hang the box from the rack so no edges touched the side or bottom of the oven.

Ten more minutes on the timer.

Step 7: Enjoy Your New Tackle Box

Remove box from oven and hang until cool.

The powder coating is still soft at this time so don't bang it up!

Once it's cool, it's ready to be enjoyed.

Go ahead, ENJOY IT!

I did this project at The Tech Shop in Menlo Park, California.

http://www.techshop.ws

If you decide to join and do your own cool projects, tell them Roballoba sent you!

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    40 Comments

    Man, this rocks in all sorts of ways.

    Let me ask you something, What do you say to people that would see all the work you put into this and simply snort: Why don't you just buy a new one? I'm tired of explaining it to others. Maybe someone can help with a short but understandable phrase.

    1 reply

    Thanks for the comment and agreeing in the value.
    You just tell them "They don't make them like they used to!"
    This box was probably 50 years old when we found it, and now it could last another 50 years if it's taken care of. The plastic boxes they make now will be crumbling in the landfills long before this one now. I think I put about two hours work into the project and got to practice a new skill in the process. The experience was worth it.

    For a non-toxic alternative to rust and paint removal, check out any number of youtubes and instructables on removing rust with electrolysis.
    If you have a battery charger, a bucket, some scrap steel and some washing soda from walmart, you're ready to go.

    2 replies

    uhm, i don't think so.
    electrolysis with NaOH and iron as catode and anode, generate waste to purify with a chemical-phisycal purifier, it also generate hidrogen from the electrolysis procedure.
    However, in order to clean metal from rust, we need acid solutions like HCl at 10-30% of volume with water; electrolysis using NaOH will remove grease and oil, it increase fragility of the metal in order to gain hidrogen on the surface...and at least, electrolysis for degreasing using NaOH works on a 4-6 Vcc, if you're using 12 V battery you will burn your piece of metal because there's too much current on the spike, you have to provide 2-4 A/dm2
    greetings

    Usually sodium carbonate Na2CO3 otherwise known as washing soda is used with water as the electrolyte for electrolytic rust removal. Washing soda also removes grease and oil so your finish coating will adhere better. Many have removed rust from sheet metal with good results but lower current chargers are usually recommended. If you are worried about hydrogen embrittlement bake the metal after rust removal.

    simply WOW unbelievably good turnout


    I have several metal toolboxes that survived a PG&E Smartmeter explosion & fire,but their paint didn't. This is still better than the plastic tool boxes which melted and destroyed their contents. Unfortunately I don't have a sand blaster [or powder coater].. Do you have any strategies for getting past this step? thanks

    2 replies

    There are several Instructables on various methods of removing rust that range from using lime juice to electrolysis. Which ever method you choose be ready to prime/paint as soon as you finish removing the rust to prevent 'flash' rust from occurring.

    chemical stripper and a wire brush should help, its a bit messy and slightly painful if you touch it, so be careful.

    Nice, but not all of us have sandblasters, powerder coating guns or an ovens. Maybe an update with alternative methods for paint removal and a paint job tougher than regular spray paint?.

    3 replies

    Rustoleum hammertone paint is great if one doesn't have a powder coat.. Don't but the spray though..careful brushing won't show any brushmarks and the can paint will last longer. I have several tool boxes that got messed and rusted in the fire, still work but look a wreck..the newer versions of the same rolling tool box uses a much light gauge steel and feels quite flimsy! THe shattered shoulder isn't happy with too much scrubbing gesture as of yet..1 year later!

    there are some pretty aggressive wire wheels you can get for a drill, but I have to say, ask your local powder coating facility to see if you can rent time on their equipment.
    Check auto repair and refinishing shops.. I am sure there is something near you if you are resourceful.

    Aviation paint stripper. That is nasty stuff, but will rip paint off anything. Not sure about painting, maybe a metal paint of some sort?

    Is a proper little master-peice !!

    That's awesome!

    How does that work with the latch? Did it end up baking shut? Or not getting full coverage?

    2 replies

    the latch was just barely latched so there was no real issue. it has a safety catch so it was slightly ajar during the coating and baking process.

    Thanks have never done powder coating and have been curious about how to handle moving parts.

    Really nice, I have an old metal tool box I got from brother that was given to him by our dad. Can I ship it to you and you powder coat for me????. Since I do not have access to any place like that.