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Step 4Strip Down
One of the first steps is to strip the bike down. This means breaking down each part of the bike, cleaning all of the rust, black grease and dirt away and restoring each piece to pristine retro condition.
A notebook is useful here, you can draw pictures of which piece goes where and keep a tally of all the bits.
To help remove parts, use WD40/RP7 spray - apply liberally to any stuck parts. Use your big spanner or shifter and a big wooden slab to 'budge' any stuck parts. Don't be afraid to repeat the spray-budge-spray-budge process over the course of three or four days. Eventually it will come loose. The pedals on this example bike took three days to come loose but eventually loosened off.
Once you have loosened and counted the parts, put them in an individual tray with some kerosene. A toothbrush is useful here to brush off any grime. Don't use the toothbrush again :)
Here are some specifics for an old ten-speed bike:
Headset:
(this is the set of stuff that attaches the fork and handlebar assembly to the frame. When you steer you use this).
Use the big shifter and RP7 to loosen the threaded nut. Use an allen key in the neck of the headset stem to loosen the wedge in the headset tube. remove the bearings and take note of the alignment / orientation of the bearings. Clean up the parts.
Bottom Bracket:
(This is the set of stuff which allows your pedals to go round in the frame)
Remove the pedals. This is often tricky. For some reason people overtighten the pedals into the crank. Once you have removed the pedals, use the crank puller tool in your toolkit to remove the crank arms (see the detail in the photo). Use the cone wrenches to loosen the nuts around the bottom bracket. Note the orientation of the bearings and nuts in the bottom bracket for later. Clean up the parts.
Wheels and wheel Bearings:
Remove the wheels (and tires), chain and the derailleurs from the frame. Wash up the small parts in the kerosene bath. Clean the spokes with aluminium foil by rubbing the foil against the spokes. This cleans them up really well. Use the cone wrenches to remove the nuts in each wheel - BE REALLY CAREFUL! the ball bearings will fall out so use a cloth or paper to catch them as you undo the nuts. Put all of the parts in a seperate kerosene container.
Cables:
Make a note of the gear and brake cables with your notepaper. remove the cables and keep them for later to provide a reference length for the new cables. Remove all of the bar tape from the handlebars and wipe all of the tape glue off with kerosene.
By now your bike will look like a frame, fork and a whole lot of bits! don't trip over them...
A notebook is useful here, you can draw pictures of which piece goes where and keep a tally of all the bits.
To help remove parts, use WD40/RP7 spray - apply liberally to any stuck parts. Use your big spanner or shifter and a big wooden slab to 'budge' any stuck parts. Don't be afraid to repeat the spray-budge-spray-budge process over the course of three or four days. Eventually it will come loose. The pedals on this example bike took three days to come loose but eventually loosened off.
Once you have loosened and counted the parts, put them in an individual tray with some kerosene. A toothbrush is useful here to brush off any grime. Don't use the toothbrush again :)
Here are some specifics for an old ten-speed bike:
Headset:
(this is the set of stuff that attaches the fork and handlebar assembly to the frame. When you steer you use this).
Use the big shifter and RP7 to loosen the threaded nut. Use an allen key in the neck of the headset stem to loosen the wedge in the headset tube. remove the bearings and take note of the alignment / orientation of the bearings. Clean up the parts.
Bottom Bracket:
(This is the set of stuff which allows your pedals to go round in the frame)
Remove the pedals. This is often tricky. For some reason people overtighten the pedals into the crank. Once you have removed the pedals, use the crank puller tool in your toolkit to remove the crank arms (see the detail in the photo). Use the cone wrenches to loosen the nuts around the bottom bracket. Note the orientation of the bearings and nuts in the bottom bracket for later. Clean up the parts.
Wheels and wheel Bearings:
Remove the wheels (and tires), chain and the derailleurs from the frame. Wash up the small parts in the kerosene bath. Clean the spokes with aluminium foil by rubbing the foil against the spokes. This cleans them up really well. Use the cone wrenches to remove the nuts in each wheel - BE REALLY CAREFUL! the ball bearings will fall out so use a cloth or paper to catch them as you undo the nuts. Put all of the parts in a seperate kerosene container.
Cables:
Make a note of the gear and brake cables with your notepaper. remove the cables and keep them for later to provide a reference length for the new cables. Remove all of the bar tape from the handlebars and wipe all of the tape glue off with kerosene.
By now your bike will look like a frame, fork and a whole lot of bits! don't trip over them...
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