Note that I painstakingly recreated everything you see here from scratch including all logos and even our old friend Jeff. I hope you enjoy this project.
1. CKE, the parent company of Hardees, Carl's Jr and probably many chains you know, still owns and actively protects their Burger Chef patents and trademarks. A simple Google search will show you that as recently as 2007, Hardees successfully dismantled a claim by a company that they abandoned the Burger Chef trademark.
2. This fan art project is part of a series. Look for roughly one per week over the next two months. Here are the Instructables you will see as part of this series:
1. Brand Identity, color palette, and logo
3. Road Sign
6. Food Service Hat
7. French Fry container
3. Before we get started, I wanted to acknowledge that it would have been impossible to create this project without the web sites of archivists Jeff Flack and Kyle Brown. These guys have the difficult and mostly thankless job of validating the authenticity and preserving the mountain of material generated from the once mighty Burger Chef marketing machine. Both web sites are worth your time if you wish to read more about Burger Chef. Jeff in particular was nice enough to correspond with me by email and offer encouragement as I worked on the FUNMEAL and Cup. Which interestingly answers another question; yes, Jeff Lives!
Step 1: Tools and Materials
1. Wide format photo printer (~Epson Stylus Photo 1400)
2. Super-B (13”x19”) Photo Supreme Matte Paper
3. White Foam Core Board available at most dollar stores
4. Aspen brand coffee cups available at Walmart (optional)
5. Plastic lids available everywhere but recommend looking for a clear lid without a brand name
7. Liquid Super Glue (Loctite Longneck is the best. It doesn't discolor)
8. Clear Glue Stick
9. Attached PDF file (obviously you need the hat templates in the file)
Step 2: Select a Design
Step 3: Print
Step 4: Select a Build Option After a Brief Basic Paper Cup Anatomy Primer
Option 1: Buy a massively expensive pneumatic cup forming machine. The first picture shows the parts of a real paper cup that is manufactured using a pneumatic curling and knurling machine. Nope. That isn't going to happen. These machines are designed for large production runs and also work with paper specially coated with wax or plastic to create a truly water tight barrier.
Don't despair. We have a few build options..
Option 2: Treat the project as a stage prop and skip an inner liner. This is the practical approach since most of us would either just place the finished project on a shelf or hand it to our kids for their play kitchen. The second picture shows the stage prop version. The key to success with this version is the placement of the foam core bottom. It creates a constant outward pressure to keep the cup form. It also acts to weight down the cup since it will always be empty. Even if you are an Origami Jedi, you'll not be able to knurl or curl heavy cardboard stock realistically. Obviously, this isn't something we can do. Since the top isn't curled, you can dab a bit of hot glue onto the plastic lid to hold it in place. Most of my first-generation cups are built this way. They look perfect but are non-functional.
Option 3: Start by building Option 2 and complete it by inserting a smaller paper cup. You can see the profile of this option in the third picture. This is the best method. The cups in the templates I provide are 20 oz cups. Simply glue stick a 16 oz white coffee cup and seat it into your hand crafted cup. It will fit perfectly snug at the rim. This give you a truly functional cup. This isn't a cozy. They are permanently bonded together but you can remove the lid and rinse it out for some light use or photographing product such as milk shakes or pop. I now build all my cups this way.
Option 4: Attach the wall to an existing paper cup as an over-sized Cozy. I don't cover this method specifically because it's pretty obvious how to just spray adhesive or glue stick one of these prints to an existing cup. Not pictured.
If you simply scanned this page, I'm recommending Option 3 as the best option.
Step 5: Cut
Cut out the cup side walls being particularly careful to not cut off the side tab. This is very easy and shouldn't take very much time.
Paper Cup Disc Bottoms
Cut out the disc cup bottoms. You will see two circumferences. Cut the inner smaller circumference for a standard build (recommended). Only cut from the outer circumference if you are attempting a radiating tab (not recommended).
Foam Core Disc Bottoms
Using a discarded paper cup disc bottom from the previous cutting task, trace a circle onto a piece of foam core. Cut the foam core using leaving ample extra space beyond what was previously marked. The foam core will be coated with paper on both sides. Remove the paper from only one of the sides, preferably the side with markings. You can throw away the paper you peeled off as it will not be used.
Step 6: Roll
Step 7: Glue Wall
Run a bead of crazy glue down the length of the tab. The tab needs to be completely covered in glue. Carefully draw the opposing side over the tab. You will only have a second or two to position the walls. They bond extremely fast because the glue soaks into the paper fibers, creates a tremendous amount of surface area, and the chemical reaction starts heating up almost immediately. If you inadvertently get glue on your fingers, be careful not to make contact with the paper or you will likely pull graphics and color off. Be careful.
Step 8: Glue Bottom
The goal is to position the foam core disc about 1/8" to 1/4" from the bottom of the cup wall. It's recessed on purpose. I'm able to position it with a bit of nudging using my fingers but you may find it easier to tap it into position with a pencil eraser.
Using a liberal amount of crazy glue, leave a trail of glue around the perimeter of the foam core disc. I've never had a problem with crazy glue leaking through the paper. You don't need to worry about the outside becoming color distorted.
If the cup is inverted, this is pretty easy. The foam will melt as the crazy glue activates. That's is OK and to be expected. In fact, it helps since the outer wall will then relax to the proper contour and the paper of the foam core base also bonds. After a few seconds, the base stops reacting and becomes firmly bonded to the wall of the cup.
The final step for the bottom is to apply a paper disc to cover up any of our previous foam core base and glue work. Smear a layer of glue using a glue stick onto a paper disc. Press into place.
Alternatively, use one of the paper discs with the radiating flange cuts for extra strength. I personally don't think this is worth the effort. I've never had a base fail using the standard method.
Step 9: Pop Top (Option)
Use a glue stick to lay down a thick coat of glue about an inch in width starting from the curl of the Aspen cup. Insert the Aspen cup into the Vintage cup while trying to line up the rear facing seams of both cups.
Place a 16-20-oz pop lid on top. The ones pictured here are from El Polo Loco and have no visible brand markings. There are a lot of lids that fit perfectly with this cup but be aware that the big fast food restaurants have their logo on the lid and that may distract from the finished look.
Step 10: Coffee Top (Option)
Refer to the process for the Pop Top (Option) and simply use the black coffee top lid packaged with the Aspen cups.