The good news was that the motor and transmission was in good shape, with 9,000 miles on the odometer. The clutch plates were stuck, but about an hour of rocking the bike back and forth with the bike in gear and the clutch lever pulled finally broke them free.
The carburator was beyond redemption -- the idle circuit and air bleed were too corroded to rebuild, but an ebay carb took care of that problem. I also replaced the horn, the ignition switch, and one of the rear shocks -- again, using ebay.
So, my instructable is focused mainly on rust and corrosion removal, which took the better part of two months to complete.
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Signing UpStep 1: Removing stuff
I began by removing the seat, gas tank, fenders, exhaust system, side covers, and the rear view mirrors.
The seat was held on by two nuts, and once removing these I simply lifted up the rear of the seat and pulled the front loose from its bracket. With the seat removed, the gas tank (after removing the fuel line) pulled free from its front bracket.
The front fender was held by three bolts, which I wound up having to twist off (too corroded to come loose, even with plenty of penetrating oil). I drilled out these broken bolts.
The rear fender was held on by four bolts, and once removed I could get to the bolts that held the tail light/license bracket. The wire for the tail light unit simply unplugged from the wiring harness.
The exhaust system surprisingly came free without breaking any of the studs that held it on.
The side covers were designed to simply pop on and off, so they came off easily, and the rear view mirrors unscrewed from their handlebar mounts.
Throughout all of the disassembly process I carefully kept track of all loose parts by putting them in labeled sandwitch bags.
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Then you know wether it's worth it to spend time and money on. Having made this mistake far too many times, I have to ride it before I even clean it! Although taking stuff apart is a good way to see how it works...I would do the bare minimum to get it running first before taking it apart and painting it. Beware of the Money Pit!
I own a 1978 Honda CB 100. Been on the dock for the last two weeks. Same idea: resurrecting. Bit hoping to rejuvenate or mind you, swap off, with Chinese-made of Honda GL Pro series. In my area, that Honda SL125 is used mainly for Forest Rangers. Hard to get by these days, when found, such restored...err resurrected bike with original/genuine parts costs definitely a fortune !
Super great job !
did you de-rusted your tank? I had the same problem. My tank was more than 40 years old. no paint, just rust. I did electrolysis on it. It looks awsome!!
You should try that if you haven't already. It really works wonders, and no fumes or harsh chemicals.
Here's the before and after. I just rinsed it with a hose.
Are there any "ibles" in here about seized engines? I looked but can't find one.
Thanks,
Mr. Lunna XIII
Have a look at some different bikes, before commuting to a project. The Honda cb250 is easy enough to work on, and parts are everywhere. It's a much nicer bike than the cb100N that I'm doing now.
So basically: You might as well go for it, but have a look at some alternative bikes instead of the cb100. Hope this helps, and best of luck.
i mean if you put your weight on it does the paint stays on??
-dan-
Once finished, remove all oil or contaminants, primer & paint.
Even a very small compressor & a tarp make keeping things under control easy.
Be careful if you're blasting thin sheet-metal, as it can heat and warp. Buy washed sand, the cleaner the better. Or look around and make your own blasting cabinet to keep all your sand & mess contained.
Hopefully the 10 hours will turn into 2 or 3.