Resurrecting the California Cooler by dlginstructables
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Step 6: Is there a future for the California Cooler?

Past and Future.jpg
A couple of mornings ago as I road my bike to work, I decide to see if I could spot any California Cooler vents on houses. Not surprisingly, I found a bunch. They are very common in the flats of Berkeley, not just on single family houses, but on old apartment buildings. It seems like the majority of them are for floor-to-ceiling pantries. Yesterday, I surprised myself even more by counting that more than half the houses on my block have them, as well as one apartment building (I will definitely be asking my neighbors if I can take a peak inside their kitchens to see what has become of their California Coolers!).

I can imagine that people in the 1930s were excited to get their new-fangled refrigerators and that continuing to use the primitive California Cooler would have seemed ridiculous. But we live in a different era now, one in which using renewable energy is preferable. The cool air that we have along the California coast comes to us free of charge via winds and currents of the Pacific Ocean.

I have a fantasy that others will resurrect their California Coolers as we have done. But, from a green perspective, does it really make sense to do this? I think that our method of storing some foods in the California Cooler, and others in the refrigerator will definitely use less energy that we did before. According to a Federal Trade Commission Document our old refrigerator used 464 kilowatt hours and our new one 309 kWh per year, for an annual savings of 155 kWh. That's about enough energy to run our entire household for 17 days. Not bad for a cabinet with two vents in it!

But, when I think about how much it cost to make the cooler, it's actually kind of embarrassing. I think it cost at least as much as a brand new refrigerator! Of course, most of the expense was in labor, and we also chose to use pretty expensive materials because we wanted it to look really nice.One choice that could have been made differently was the use of polyurethane insulation. This is a non-recyclable petroleum product. If I were to do it again, I might choose some other type of insulation, such as recycled denim. However, I'm not sure that other types of insulation would do such a good job, or work for a long time with moisture present.

If you live in an old house that has a boarded up California Cooler, would you consider doing something like this? I'd love to hear comments from you. If you are a builder, would you consider putting a California Cooler in a new house?

Also, out of curiosity, I'd be interested to hear from people in other cities where houses were built between 1900 and 1930. How common are California Coolers there?

I actually think that resurrecting the California Cooler is a subset of a larger energy saving idea - to use outdoor air to aid refrigeration. Under certain conditions, it could be more efficient for a regular electric refrigerator to exchange air with the outdoors instead of the air in your kitchen. And, in certain places, during certain months, it's cold enough to use outdoor air as a freezer. Imagine if in places like Minnesota if people had the choice to operate their freezer with outside air in the winter and then use it normally in the summer. That could save a lot of energy when compared to running a freezer in the winter while heating the air inside the house for comfort. I have started doing little things to make our fridge not work as hard. For example, when I cook a big pot of soup, I let it cool down to room temperature until putting it in the fridge. Sometimes I'll leave something out overnight (if it doesn't have a smell that would attract animals) and then put it in the fridge in the morning, shaving off the amount of cooling the fridge needs to do on that item.

 
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Servelan says: Apr 9, 2010. 4:20 PM
My great aunt's house in Seattle was built in [I believe] the 20s or 30s and had a California cooler cabinet in the north wall of the second kitchen [the house was built as a sort of unofficial duplex for my great aunt and uncle and her in-laws].  I know our uninsulated breezeway also often functions as a cooler of sorts in the winter - when potatoes are cheap, bags of them are congregated there in anticipation of being cooked up.
jodiwer says: Dec 2, 2010. 9:56 AM
When I was in China, at the end of summer the (unheated) apartment stairwells would begin to fill with cabbages, onions and root vegetables. You had to be careful walking upstairs to navigate around all the produce! All winter the supply would dwindle.

Back here in the US, In the winter, we often us our garage as a "refrigerator" and our back deck as a "freezer". And as for eggs, those who grew up on farms know that the gathered eggs always sat on the counter in a basket. No one even considered putting them in the icebox. Thanks for the instructable.
dlginstructables (author) says: Apr 11, 2010. 7:44 AM
That makes sense - I would think that the coasts of Oregon and Washington would have even better weather for a cooler than we have in the Bay Area.
jeanicrowe says: Sep 3, 2010. 10:02 PM
The california cooler is really meant to be used in a very dry climate. It cools by a breeze blowing through a damp covering, so a true California cooler would not work in a climate with high humidity. Just having vents in a house does not make a California cooler, which can actually cool almost as well as a refrigerator. The cloth must be porous (most often burlap was used) and the top of the fabric is submerged in a pan of water. These coolers were usually lined with tin, rather than just plain wood, and the wicking action kept the fabric wet with out making too much of a mess. As long as the water pan was filled, the cooler stayed very cold. It had a screened in back and lopen racks for holding food, to permit the best air circulation. Sometimes they were built into the house, flush with the outside wall and looked like an ordinary cupboard from the kitchen and sometimes they were completely outside with the door flush with the kitchen wall. They were always positioned to take advantage of prevailing wind currents and sometimes were screen on two sides, with burlap covering both screened sides. Again a lot of this kind of info is available in the Hardtimes Handbook by Sarah Autry available at Amazon. I keep giving the authors name because there is more than one book called Hardtimes handbook at Amazon.
jauncourt says: Dec 2, 2010. 2:13 PM
How familiar are you with the climate of coastal California? It's pretty much ALWAYS high humidity on teh coast here, from the Oregon border to the Mexican border. I currently live in San Diego county, and the humidity is fairly high here except during the height of summer when the Santa Ana winds come through. The further north you get, the higher the humidity gets on the coast, and the colder the summers. In Mendocino county, you never put your sweaters and coats and thick socks away when you live on the coast, even when it's hot inland.

My parents' old farm up in Mendocino had a functional cooler pantry, that had never been closed up. It was wood, not tin lined, except at the top, where there was a pan that could be removed, for holding a block of ice. My parents actually would put a big roasting pan with a bag of ice in it up there when the power went out, in order to keep perishables cold, and in winter kept milk and dairy in it without needing ice. It was installed in the mudporch, not the kitchen, though, so it never got warm the way the house did. It was also on the side of the house that got the least sun, and the bungalow-style house had large overhanging eaves that protected it during summer.

The point of this is that California is not some monolithic sunny climate, and that the cooler pantry was actually as often an ice box (back when that meant a guy would bring you ice every couple of days).
pescabicicleta says: Dec 2, 2010. 11:54 AM
What you are describing is better known as a "swamp cooler," and they were once very common throughout the arid West. They are prone to molds forming within the cooler housing, so most have been replaced with central AC.

The device described here does not appear to work by evaporative cooling, but rather by a controlled exposure to cooler external air.

My first thought was that this might be made far more reliable (and efficient) by connecting the louver system and temp sensors to an arduino-controlled actuator. Close the louvers whenever the outside temperature is greater than that inside the cold box, or when outside temperatures dip below 0 degrees celsius.
Dude567 says: Sep 4, 2010. 9:28 AM
Coastal areas are not "dry" in terms of rainfall where I live (Vancouver, BC) especially with the mountains causing so much rainfall however I think in a sunny location a evaporative cooler would work just fine. In fact a lot of BC's coast, and Washington's too if i'm not mistaken, is coastal temperate rainforest. (Just Google Great Bear rainforest it's in BC and the largest of it's kind in the world)
josefski says: Apr 11, 2010. 10:32 AM
 You would think, except that there is often a stronger offshore breeze up here that can warm the coasts here considerably. The "bay breeze" that keeps the bay area as pleasantly cool as it often stays well into summer is really a relatively unique phenomenon, caused by your unique geographical setup. (I'm pushing my glasses up as I type this :-) )
Icelander says: Dec 2, 2010. 8:11 AM
My wife and I are planning to remodel our kitchen and have decided to build a big pantry cabinet into the corner of it. Since I'm going to have to open up the floor to remove the island, (too big for our litle kitchen) maybe I'll plumb in ventilation from our crawl space (fully lined concrete) and vent it out from under the eaves. Ours would have to be a "Washington Cooler" though as we're in Seattle. :) Thanks for the idea!
walkerman1980 says: Sep 6, 2010. 1:44 AM
first off EXCELLENT job:) shouldve built it yourself though. itd be dirt cheap that way but since dones done.....i think the copmment before about using thermal cooling attached to a 12 volt power supply(battery backup) and attached to a solar panel indeed would be a great approach. if you study the composite that makes up the coolers(aka mini fridges-basically insulated metal lined) youd notice the 4 screws holding the peltier on the fridge. pop a fan on the back of the heatsink, flow arrows should indicate that the air will come in from vent(lower) and out over the sink. youd achieve an average temp 45 degrees cooler. also the smaller fridge: my one ex gf had a thermal fridge in her dorm and i borrowed a mini thermal when i lived in my friends basement for a bit(from her cousin) that fridge kept milk, eggs,cheese you name it cold enough not to spoil. just remember to give it PLENTY of room for the hot air to escape outside. maybee a seperate heating type duct positioned around the heatsink hole in center,fan attached blowing on heatsink, to capture hot air and move it away downward and outside. you wont freeze stuff unless its super cold out but with some careful thought and a bit of an artistic mind you can get it to the point where youd not even need a seperate fridge. just a few suggestions there its very hard to type what im visioning lol.
hkmalhi says: Jun 15, 2010. 3:06 PM
I am so glad to have come across your post after googling "California Cooler". We just bought a 1922 Spanish Style house in Los Angeles that has an intact California Cooler. It's about 15 degrees cooler than the rest of the house and receives cool air from the basement. We are moving in next week and are looking forward to using the cooler the way it was intended. Thanks for your helpful information!
dlginstructables (author) says: Jun 30, 2010. 9:35 AM
That sounds great! I wish ours had a connection to the basement, because now that the weather is warmer, the cabinet is not staying as cool as I'd like. Let me know how it goes.
patenaude says: Apr 29, 2010. 9:24 PM
Have you considered automating the opening and closing of the vents using a small microcontroller like an arduino?  Hook up a couple of probes to measure outside and cabinet, a couple of servos for the vents, and a status LED or two and a simple algorithm could be:

If the outside temp is lower than the cabinet temp, but above 33 def F, then open the vents and turn on the LED, otherwise close them and turn it off.  I'd put in a small hysteresis so that when the outside and inside temps are about the same, the vents don't open and close constantly.

If the cabinet temp gets above 60/65 (whatever) flash the status LED on the door, to warn that it has gotten too warm.  

If you wanted to deal with high temperature semi-automatically, you *could* even have the controller turn on a small peltier heat pump to dump heat into the kitchen, though you'd have to hide the external (hot) heat-sink somewhere inconspicuous. that would still get good airflow (perhaps disguise it as trim near the top.)
dlginstructables (author) says: May 1, 2010. 12:06 AM
I am considering that, but I haven't proven to myself that closing the vents helps much, if at all. Perhaps it will become more clear as we get into the warmer months. Also, I'm thinking that maybe the temperature inside the cabinet isn't the whole story and that the airflow also has to be taken into account. It may be just as effective for food preservation to have air flowing with a slightly higher temperature compared to no air flow and a slightly lower temperature. Anyway, I am planning to set up a number of temperature sensors inside and out and record data to a computer - see if that helps me make sense of the whole thing.
patenaude says: Apr 30, 2010. 2:04 PM
 Small algorithm change:

The criterion for opening the vents is that the outside temp is lower than the cabinet temp, and the cabinet temp is above some lower cutoff, like 40F.

dlginstructables (author) says: May 1, 2010. 12:08 AM
Here in Berkeley, 40 F is typically the nighttime low temperature in the winter (December - February). During the warmer months, I would be happy if the cabinet kept below 60 or 65F, so that would be my cutoff temperature. But, as I said above, I'm not convinced that closing the vents is helpful.
wesouthwardjr32 says: Apr 24, 2010. 5:07 AM
This is great way to to save energy and as an extra idea have you tried to frieze a gallon or two of water.  And if you kept the original in there at all times for thermal mass this would really help to keep it a bit cooler.
Lizz12 says: Apr 9, 2010. 3:29 PM
I doubt this would count, but up in the northern states where you can count on it being really cold all day and night in the winter, the enclosed porch becomes a fridge/freezer. Leftover turkey at Thanksgiving? On the porch. Keep the beer cold for St. Paddy's day? On the porch. But it has to be enclosed or the wild animals will make quick work of Aunt Lindy's extra pumpkin pie.
dlginstructables (author) says: Apr 11, 2010. 7:50 AM
I think that counts a lot. If there were some way to turn off your freezer in the winter, then you could save a lot of electricity.

Also, when I was in engineering school some students did a design project where they altered a refrigerator so it could take in air from the outside. They had a set of valves, so if it got cold outside, a fan would blow in outside air, and if it was not cold outside, the freezer would operate normally. Like the CA Cooler, you would have to have some holes/vents in the kitchen wall to exchange air with the outside.
Shiftlock says: Apr 22, 2010. 12:40 PM
If you think about it, it is kind of silly that in the winter when it's cold outside, we use power to heat the inside of our homes, and then we keep a little box (the refrigerator) inside our heated homes that we use power to make cold again.  It's like a thermal Russian nesting doll of wasted power (how's that for an obscure analogy?).  The obvious solution is to simply keep the food that needs to be kept cold outside of our heated homes.

As a child in New England in the 60's, I remember my great-grandmother keeping her eggs, butter, fruit and vegetables in the basement.  I thought it was strange that she walked up and down the stairs instead of just putting those things in the fridge, but it was a habit of a different era.  If we want to maintain a sustainable way of life as a society, it would be wise to revisit a lot of these "old time" ways of life.

KD5NRH says: Apr 22, 2010. 12:59 PM
It's even sillier that in the summer we pay to cool the house, while the refrigerator vents the hot air from its cooling coils inside.  It would be a big improvement if homebuilders would standardize on having refrigerators able to vent outside in summer, and inside in winter. 
dlginstructables (author) says: Apr 23, 2010. 12:55 PM
I agree, except in the case when it's very hot outside during the summer -  then it would not be good to have the fridge exchange air with the outdoors, because the fridge would then use even more electricity.
KD5NRH says: Apr 23, 2010. 9:33 PM
When the outside temperature is higher than the inside temperature, it would make the most sense to use interior air to cool the coils, but vent it outside afterward.  The loss of cooled air would still be better than heating it just to return it to the interior. 
Shiftlock says: Apr 23, 2010. 1:23 PM
But, when it's very hot outside, it doesn't make sense to have the refidgerator vent the heat to the air-conditioned interior, just to make the air conditioner then move it to the outside.  Wouldn't it still be more efficient to just have the fridge vent it directly to the outside, instead of moving that heat twice?
salec says: Apr 23, 2010. 2:14 AM
I've been thinking about it for quite some time. When you look at it, main part of consumer energy ... well, consumption is thermal management : either heating something or cooling something else or even both simultaneously. I came to  conclusion that we should have something like heat transfer installation and outlets in our homes, for both "hot" and "cold", both having a "feed" and a "return" thermally insulated pipes and taps and those lines should terminate in home central heat pump which would suck the heat from "cold" return and push that heat into "hot" feed. Now, depending on the season and even depending on the time of day, there would probably often be some imbalance, heat shortage in winter or heat excess in summer, but overall energy demand ought to be much smaller then it is today. With such micro infrastructure (and hopefully, open standards) in place, modular thermal appliances could be built for e.g.:
- harvesting waste heat from (or dumping excess household heat into) sewage before it leaves house,
- outdoor cold trap panels for catching heat that leaves house through walls and roofs in winter,
- indoor cold trap panels for catching heat entering house through walls and roofs in summer,
- heat accumulating devices (insulated mass with great heat capacity and embedded heat exchanger) to take advantage of temperature and electric energy price differences over 24 h cycle,
- electronics' cooling modules (plug your PC to wall "cold" outlet and enjoy silence)
- solar modules to get additional heat if needed
- deep soil heat exchanger for dumping out excess heat or pumping in needed heat,
- cheaper thermal appliances for the same functions we have today (fridges, freezers, dishwashers, washing machines, dryers, AC indoor units, cookers, ovens, irons, hairdryers, ...), that use less electricity and connect to thermal outlets,
etc.

I believe that, if we had such installations in our homes, there would be whole industry (opening positions, economic growth, yadda, yadda ...) of thermal appliances to buy and also plenty of DIY instructables on building different interesting gadgets for it.

Please share this idea around and raise awareness, so we could get our hands on them in our lifetime!
Shiftlock says: Apr 23, 2010. 6:20 AM
Good idea in theory, but is it practical?  Thermals don't move nicely through a pipe like water or a wire like electricity.  Thermal energy moves through solids by conduction, through air and liquids by convection, and through space by radiation.  It's always trying to reach an equalibrium.  Harnessing it and transporting it would be like trying to move electricity through a semiconductor, or water through leaky nerf-walled pipes.  Just like the author of this instructable learned, moving thermals from one place to another and keeping them there is not easy.  There are some aspects that are good and should be implemented, like roof-mounted solar heat collectors, but on a grand scale I don't think a thermal transfer system will work well enough to be cost effective.  I hope I'm wrong about that, because it sounds like a great system, but I don't think I am.  I would be interested to hear if other people think I'm incorrect (I hope I am).
salec says: Apr 25, 2010. 12:40 PM
"Good idea in theory, but is it practical?  Thermals don't move nicely through a pipe like water or a wire like electricity.  Thermal energy moves through solids by conduction, through air and liquids by convection, and through space by radiation.  It's always trying to reach an equalibrium.  Harnessing it and transporting it would be like trying to move electricity through a semiconductor, or water through leaky nerf-walled pipes. "

I deliberately tried to avoid impressing my view of what medium should be used to transfer heat in thermal installations, but  so far water (or some water-based solution capable of staying in liquid form in wide temperature range) seems like a good candidate. I guess that crucial part of technology would be the point of connection of appliance to installation, or answering the question: how to avoid accidental leakage of dangerously hot or cold fluids at plug-in or plug-out time? Perhaps connection points should be designed with embedded intelligence and multiple valves and locks, enabling drying out of connection points and appliances' "plumbing" before breaking connections.
Shiftlock says: Apr 22, 2010. 1:10 PM
You are absolutely right!  Do supermarkets do this?  With all of their refrigeration, it would seem an obvious energy-savings thing to do, but I'm not sure if they do.
docree says: Apr 22, 2010. 11:40 AM
I've heard of a project where someone took the cooling coil on the back of a fridge and used that to heat water. After all the "heat" in your refrigerator has to go somewhere. But I'm not certain how that project turned out.
mazatty says: Apr 22, 2010. 2:28 PM
been thinking about building a walk-in beer cooler similar to a california cooler. i'm high in the colorado rockies and our average low in the summer is 40F. i was planning to have a large barrel of water for thermal mass, besides the gallons of beer. was also planning on using an exhaust fan with a couple of temperature controllers and a couple of barometric dampers. sounds like i shouldn't have a problem maintaining cellar temps. it blow me away that the beer distributer and bars in town aren't already doing this.
rallen71366 says: Apr 23, 2010. 1:11 PM
 Here in Missouri, my grandmother told me about how they used to have a window in the kitchen with a mesh cage around it, and used it in the cooler seasons, and the spring house in the summer. It was the simple country version of a CA cooler.

Some people still have root cellars around here. I did see an old Mother Earth News where they had an ice chest in the basement, and ran loops of copper piper around the inside of it, and put it in-line with their incoming waterline. It was a modern "spring house"!
dlginstructables (author) says: Apr 23, 2010. 12:42 PM
Sounds great! Well, energy was cheap and "inexaustible" for so long, that our country has a lot of wasteful habits. Hopefully industry will come up with green solutions as well.
bombmaker2 says: Apr 22, 2010. 3:20 PM

Now that would be just pure AWSOME!!

stevepuk says: Apr 22, 2010. 6:43 AM
How do you stop insects getting in through the vents yet allow a sufficient flow of cooling air?
qwertyboy says: Apr 22, 2010. 12:39 PM
Probably something like a window screen.
dlginstructables (author) says: Apr 23, 2010. 12:39 PM
Yes, the vents both have window screen on the outside.
XofHope says: Apr 18, 2010. 11:19 AM
Have you considered using cork for isolation? I don't know how readily available or how expensive it is there but I'm from Portugal, the number one producer of cork in the world, and that's what we used traditionally around here. In the past years it has been replaced by synthetic products but there's now a resurgence, which I think is great.
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