In a nutshell, this tutorial is a housing conversion. We'll take the guts out of the rocketfish speakers and transfer it over to each of the salad bowls. I came up with this idea for my blog (http://theb-roll.com) where I do one creative thing a day for a year and document it each day. This was Day 140.
I did this conversion mostly over a period of one night so some of my solutions might seem a little temporary to you. As we go along I will try to suggest alternative methods.
The two main ingredients in this tutorial are:
1. The Rocketfish speakers (RF-WS01)
http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/products/home-theater/RF-WS01.html
2. 2 BLANDA MATT 11in Ikea serving bowls
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60057258
Now, lets begin...
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Opening Up the Speakers
A phillips head screwdriver
A smaller precision phillips head screwdriver
A T10 Torx Screwdriver
A 1/2in. Nut Driver
Begin by removing the volume knob from the front of the speakers. It's on there tight so you might want to use some pliers of channel locks to pull it off. Then take the 1/2in. Nut Driver and remove the screw attaching the potentiometer to the plastic housing. (see picture)
Next, take your T10 Torx screw driver and remove all of the screws off of the back of the housing. Don't miss the four located inside the battery compartment. There should be eight altogether (see picture) Once the screws are removed you should be able to open the speaker housing quite easily.










































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




Awesome Instructable. Going to do this tomorrow. Thank you.
Btw.I thought those ikea bowls can be used in making "JBL Spyro " like subwoofer drive.It could be great.The only thing is how to manage the air flow inside of that sys. otherwise it may sound lil boxy.
Then flip the hole (pun intended) thing over and finish from the 'back side.
very few if any jagged edges that way
if these are stereo speakers . . .
shouldn't they be in two spheres of their own and separated.
preferably hanging near a hard, relatively flat, surface
So, I just ended up going that way. I built myself two speaker spheres so that meant that I bought two sets of wireless speakers. (The more expensive option)
I liked the idea that someone on either side of the sphere is hearing the music. I initially made them for a party where guests would be amongst the speakers. Plus, the speakers themselves have a switch which can set them to be left mono, right mono or stereo, which works well for my setup.
But a great, cheaper alternative, which would still be the same process is your idea of a single speaker in two spheres.
Thanks
paint them to look like large fruit . . . ;- )
Nice 'ible, though, however they're decorated!
Each speaker set or rather each store bought speaker has a sort of dead zone in the tones, where pitches become less clear, and start to blur together or become extremely quiet, because in their current housing they cannot produce the frequency as well.
When you change their housing, you take the risk that you will adjust that dead range, and make it larger. Higher quality speakers by default usually have less of this dead range, and honestly the easiest way to cover up these dead zones is by adding speakers to your stereo that cover the dead zones of the others, until you have a fully functioning range. However having a bunch of speakers is no reason to go and increase the dead range of some of your others.
I'm not well educated on the subject but would I be incorrect to assume that the spherical shape of the speakers added to the fact that they're wood would serve to enhance the resonance of these dead zones?
Thanks for the comment,
Also low sound freqs are omni directional. The higher the freq the more directional is it (generally speaking)
http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
Not sure how much help it will be with speakers of spherical design though. The same volume concept should work though, just use the formula for calculating volume of a sphere.
Radius cubed x 4/3 x pi
Thanks!
holes in the MDF partition will not help. Because you loose the isolation among both halves. My idea was an additional hole on each outer shell. I know that can be not so light...
BR, Raúl