Step 6: Install a Bolt in the Drawer Side

Before drilling a hole in the drawer, you need to know exactly where to drill not only here but also in the cabinet, which is where we'll be mounting the Blumotion springs and dampers. The easiest way to do this is to remove a rail from the cabinet, fit it to the drawer and mark your mounting points on the drawer (use masking tape) and measure your offsets from the cabinet front and bottom edge of the rail.

Note that if your existing drawer system closes itself under gravity for the last 5cm (2") of travel, then your Blumotion system will need to be installed at the same angle. In my case, this angle was 2.5mm (0.1") down for the last 5cm (2") of travel, or a gradient of 1/20. The pictures in the next step will make this clear.

Once you know where to drill, installing the bolt is quite simple. I recommend using a split ring washer or a lock nut to ensure the bolt does not come loose over time.

As for the length of the bolt, the aim is to miss the cabinet wall by about 2mm (0.08"). Choose a longer bolt and cut/file away as necessary.

I prefer to keep the bolts as hidden as possible, so I've installed mine on the far side of the kitchen. Note that the second and third pictures in this step are of drawers on opposite sides of my kitchen.

<p>My husband and I are in the process of &quot;remodeling&quot; (really just painting and updating) our spare bathroom. I had in mind installing these soft close drawer slides on our existing vanity drawers and kept seeing mixed reviews regarding those kits out there now. My mind kept leading me to Ikea's Rationell system that I always play with when visiting the stores. I know they work and I love them! After a quick Google search, I found your Instructable! Yay! I am absolutely using your tutorial, however I am a very hands on and a visual learner so I am sure if I had the pieces in my hands, I probably wouldn't have these questions but want to be clear anyhow</p><p>1- what is the purpose of tiny bolt you see in the very first picture?</p><p>2- you mention angling the slides so gravity works with them to close. My current drawers' tracks are mounted from the bottom (not the sides like yours show). Is it then necessary or possible to mount the slides with a downward angle if the track it rolls on sits under and level (I better go grab the tiny level and see if they are indeed level!)?</p><p>I think that is all for now. Thank you for reading my mind and coming up with this idea 4 years ago!</p>
<p>Glad to find another like-minded retrofitter/hacker :)</p><p>1) The tiny bolt is what latches into the clear sliding piece that allows the blumotion assembly to control the motion of the drawer</p><p>2) Angling the slides is more to do with following the path of the bolt in the last inch or two of travel. If your drawer rails angle downwards then the assembly just needs to be bolted on at the same angle. See steps 6 and 7 for a better explanation</p>
<p>This process you show for retrofitting Blum Metabox drawers to soft-close is way too complicated and expensive. Blum makes a Blumotion kit for Metabox, (item Z70.0320) that retails for $8.00 and takes about 10 minutes to install. See the attached catalog page.</p>
<p>It's a lot easier these days with the soft-close kits. This article was posted nearly 4 years ago when they weren't as easy to find.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.rockler.com/roller-runner-soft-close-mechanism" rel="nofollow">http://www.rockler.com/roller-runner-soft-close-me...</a></p><p>Retrofit soft-close product.</p>
Hi chylid great job in laying out the instructions. I'm looking to possibly do this in the new year and was looking at IKEA's online website for Canada and they offer a different size drawer see the following link:<br><br>http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/30108928<br><br>it is listed as being 41 cm in width by 30.5 in length. Do you think this type of drawer will work for me to use the soft close out of to retrofit my drawers. I would appreciate your opinion on this. There are other width sizes but all are 12 inches (30.5 cm) in depth. <br><br>Thanks again for the great information.
That drawer looks like it will work - the spring/latch and damper mechanisms seem identical to those I found in my drawer kit.<br><br>Have fun with your retrofit :)
Thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly. If I have any more questions I will be sure to ask.
Hi chylld, <br><br>I do have one more quick question. Did you happen to do any retrofits on your cabinet doors to create the same soft close affect. Reason I am asking is I was thinking of purchasing dampers for the cabinet doors. I'm not sure if the blumotion items would work. <br><br>http://www.blum.com/us/en/01/30/40/20/index.php<br><br>Just wondering if you had done something that works. <br><br>Thanks, <br><br>Jamal
I did do the cabinet doors, although it was a much cleaner retrofit. I simply purchased a pack of quality dampers from http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/directdampers/<br><br>You can install these closer to or further from the hinge to lower or raise the damping effect. Installation is as simple as drilling a hole and slipping the damper in.<br><br>I tried to use these as drawer dampers, but unfortunately they don't work since it lacks a spring+latch mechanism, which is required to pull the drawer shut. With doors, there is enough force in the hinge and the load is always the same (i.e. a door always weighs the same, but a drawer will vary in weight depending on its contents)
Great Instructable! For anyone who doesn't want to buy and dismantle all that...at least in the UK, IKEA also sells (sold) packs of standalone soft close dampers like: http://www.google.com/search?q=soft%20close%20damper http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Cheap-Beads-and-Charms/Ikea-Soft-Close-Door-Buffer.html I bought a bunch and installed them in our bedroom cupboard doors and they did a good job of absorbing/quieting down the last half inch. They were _much_ cheaper, though for the &quot;soft-close&quot; effect on a drawer they may not be as impressive as your approach.
Thanks for the comment. I actually used those exact door buffers on my drawers before this project, however found that the built-in gravity closing force wasn't enough to overcome the damper. Or in the case of my big heavy bottom drawer, was too much resulting in a slam everytime! The little buffers are great for doors though as you can install them closer to the hinge for less effect and vice-versa (and the doors will always close with the same force, irrespective of the contents.)

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