Here's a method of bringing them back to life by zapping those shorted crystal dendrites away with too much current and/or voltage. We'll use a welder as a power source. You could also use a car battery, a DC powersupply, or almost anything with some voltage. Charged-up capacitors are popular for this because you can get a very fast pulse out of them and still limit the power. it's a lot safer that way. Speaking of which,
WARNING:
If you get killed by a poisonous explosion it means you did something wrong.
Electrocution is a real possibility also.
Ask your parents how to not electrocute yourself with a welder.
If your tool has a non-battery problem, here's how to fix that.
Watch the video and see how zapping is done.
Excellent stills and video shot by Fungusamungus
Excellent Video editing by Noahw
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Signing UpStep 1: Gather Your Materials
You'll need:
Dead Nicad batteries
Nicad battery charger
Multimeter
Voltage source - we'll use a welder
insulated gloves
safety goggles











































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I will try this trick to save him 600 euros for new batterypacs.....
THANXALOT
Big; boxy HW stores want $70+ or $80+ for these "Power-Plus batteries.
I'm also working on a Sears Companion 12V battery....
Thanks for all the intelligent inputs!
I wonder can I do this zapping with 24V DC from truck battery (two 12V serial connected battery) whch is each about 150Ah.
Many thanks.
If you have a batter pack that is easily openable (the Ryobi 1+ packs open nicely with 6 screws), you can do an even better job of revivng them by shocking individual (or pairs) of calls rather than the whole battery pack. This works well if you have a pack that charged has say 16.8 or so volts rather than 18, it means just 1 of the cells is at 0. You can revive the cell without jolting the rest of the pack.
Also, for a current source, I used my car battery charger (on the 6 volt setting). Since using double the normal voltage works well for shocking the cells, I used the 6 volt setting and did 2 cells at the time. Typically the 2 cells which had read 0 volts would then read about 2.8 volts (but this shock charge would be falling quite quickly). Once I got through shocking the whole batter pack and reassembling it, the 18v pack was reading around 7 or so volts, but the standard charger would still recognize it as a good pack, and be able to charge it up to the full 18v.
My car battery charger is a 10 amp charger, with 6 and 12 volt settings. If you had just a 12 volt setting, I'd suggest shocking series of 4 cells or more. I also liked the fact that my charger, when it draws too much power, switches off to cool down. I typically found the shocking 2 cells at 6 volts til it switched off (usually after about 2 seconds) was enough to re-energize the cells. If they didn't test at 2.8 volts (i.e. sometimes 1 cell wasn't recovered and I'd get a 1.3-1.4v reading) I'd shock them again, or just try shokcing the 0 volt cell again.
I might be wrong about how much voltage is needed to shock a nicad cell back to life. 3v per cell might be more than is good, but I got good results with that.
So, to repeat:
1) If you can easily open the battery pack, do so, and recover cells rather than shock the whole pack.
and
2) A car battery charger works really well for shocking the cells.
I also have some newer One+ 18v batteries that were starting to go bad (not hold a charge) and I did one of those (just being cautious) and it is working so much better now.
Thank you!!
Thank you all again for the tips! Don
Thanks to the author of this info!
"These degenerative effects are non-correctible on the lithium-based system and only partially reversible on the lead acid." Source - http://www.buchmann.ca/chap10-page1.asp
Craftsman,19.2 volt batteries,3 months old, stopped taking a charge. 2 at the same time and charger was not getting warm.
Before buying a new charger, I tried my batteries on a friends' Craftsman portable charger that plugs into your cars' cigarette lighter and they charged perfectly.
Bought a new charger at Sears but no luck. No lights at all, no charge. Back to Sears and clerk tried a new battery in my charger, worked perfectly. Clerk says my batteries are bad but they continue to charge on the car charger every time.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
P.S Have absolutely no skills at electrical repairs.
Also, I love this bit: "If you get killed by a poisonous explosion it means you did something wrong."
Lithium batteries don't "go off" the way nicads do; what happens is the cells get out of sync with each other (so one's nearly flat, while another is nearly fully charged); the circuitry detects the nearly dead one & stops the battery from outputting; but when you stick it on the charger it sees the nearly full one get fully charged & stops the charging process; result - battery that acts like a dud nicad. The only way to fix it is to disassemble, individually recharge each cell to capacity (don't overcharge, it wrecks them), re-assemble, dispose of the spare screw(s), and (in theory) as good as new. In practice, it's easier to bin it & buy a replacement.
After a couple of hours on the charger, the drill is now returning more torque than it has for years. Nice one!
David
I have ZAPED a couple of the bad batteries like this... However i did it a little different. I reversed the the polarity and just touched the terminals 4 to 5 times then placed them in the charger and they haved worked LIKE NEW for about 6 mo. now.