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Over the years I have seen lots of Riddler canes, and different designs and takes on a good classic style. This instructable will help you create a cane with the classic style, while also having an upgrade with light, and these techniques can be applied to many different projects. I hope you enjoy the build, and if you have any questions, I will try my best to answer them.

I highly recommend you read the tools, and estimate the work. This is not a hard build, but everyone's skill level is different. There is no soldering or wiring involved. The electronics will come with "Quick Install Disconnect" pieces for easy usage.

Overall the cost for the build is less than $150, but that all depends on where you buy the items.

Supplies

1: 3 Craft Foam sheets - $1 a piece at Micheals (or any craft store with basic craft foam)

2: Poster Board - $1 anywhere really

3: Hot glue - $10 for a 10 piece bag ( I get mine from amazon, and in black)

4: LED Emitter - $35 UltraSabers Emitter Quick install Disconnect - Yes (This price can very depending on the color, I went with Violet Amethyst)

5: 4 AAA Battery Holder - $2 UltraSabers Battery Pack

6: Ultraedge Midgrade Blade - $30 UltraSabers Blade (Price can change with size and type)

7: Plasti Dip - $9 Amazon or any Hardware store

8: Spray paint - $5 - $20 Any Hardware store, and price differs on store (2 colors, Neon green, Metallic Green)

9: Spackle - $10 Any Hardware store (this is just filler for the cracks, completely optional)

10: Painting Sponge - $5-$10 Amazon or any craft store (This is for texturing only. Completely optional)

Tools- No price is added due to items being basic to most builds and prices very on the store

1: Excto knife, or box cutter

2: Hot Glue Gun

3: Rotary Tool ( I use a Dremel with a flat sanding bit - Amazon)

4: Sharpie or Marker

As Always please be safe around using these tools, and this prop is not to be used a weapon.
Enjoy :)

Step 1: Top of the Cane, Tip of the Hat, Who Is Behind the Mask of the Bat???

The head of the cane is where most of the attention will take place. Foam and poster board are your cheapest products, so get plenty and try out some different designs. Don't be afraid to mess up a few times. We learn the most through our failed projects. Remember to always fail better.

1: You'll need to use the poster board, and wrap it around the shaft, marking the half way points on both sides.

2: Once you flatten the poster board, you'll have the starting point of how thick the shaft is. Now before you make your ? outline, you'll need to add just a little to the marking, making the thickness a tad bigger. (like maybe add cm to both sides). This will help with bending and making sure you have enough room on the inside of the Head casing.

3: Now, you'll want to Outline a style of ? you want. For mine, I started with a spiral, and had a little curly q at the end, but the end product didn't allow it. So try using multiple styles. Keep in mind to have the longer part in the middle, so it doesn't cause your ? to be lop sided.

4: Your design should be to your liking on the poster board. Using an exacto-knife or box cutter, we are going to cut out the outline on the foam. Do this twice.

Step 2: A Groove, a Trench, or Even a Ditch, Where Is the Body of Batmans Snitch???

You will need to make sure the electronics work to your liking. In my pic, you can see where I cut them at one time. I was going to add a button to the cane, but it ended up being more trouble than its worth. If you're better at wiring than me, then I say go for it, its an awesome addition.

1: We are going to use the dremel with a flat sander, and make a groove in the center of out foam cut out. I did the right side of the groove, and then went over it again on the left side, making a V shape in the foam. You may want to practice at using the dremel a bit first, getting used to the speeds, and how comfortable you are at sanding it down.

2: You'll need to repeat this process on the second piece, but make sure you're dremeling on the opposite side. If need be, make a few pieces in case you mess up. Again, foam is very cheap.

3: Now that we have our grooves, we are going to the bend the foam inward connecting the V. will make a curved crease on the outside of the foam pattern. Bend it and pinch it to help form the crease. If you want, you can add hot glue to the V crease and help it stay connected. Remember to hold it in place until the glue cools and stiffens.

Step 3: A Connection, a Bridge, Maybe Some Glue, Batman Will Never Figure Out This Clue...

As in the original DIagram, the battery pack will be in the top part of the casing, with the emitter about an inch or 2 from the bottom opening. We need to leave enough room to attach the shaft to the casing. If you have a longer style casing you can always push the light and battery pack deeper, and shave off the excess length if its not to your liking.

1: Now that we have both halves bent in the groove, we are going to hot glue the 2 sides together. You'll want to start with inner curl, and stop somewhere before the curve ends. This will allow us to insert the battery in place.

2: Hot glue the outer curl together to the same point as the inner curl. this will give you a nice pocket to place the battery pack in. Place the battery inside and make sure it fits comfortably, keeping the quick disconnect wire out of the casing. Once the battery is in, sela it up to the end of the battery.

3: Add the Emitter in with the same process as the battery pack, with the light pointing outward. Again, make sure to keep the quick disconnect wire out of the casing, but this time, gauge how much wire you want to see, and make sure they can connect. Once you are comfortable with the length, seal it up to the wires leaving the bottom open to help freely move the wire for now.

Step 4: What Is a Man Who Is Done With the Grind??? Sleek and Smooth, Keep Those in Mind.

Time for smoothing out the ? with the Dremel. I can't stress this enough, take your time!!!

1: Practice first on a scrap piece of foam using a mid level speed. Once you're comfortable, grind off the corners, and ridges of the seams. The Hot clue may melt, but that's Ok. it too will flatten out a bit.

2: Now that you have the seems somewhat grinded down, add a bit of a curve using the same process, getting rid of any unnecessary edges. personally, I love the crease in the center, it adds loads of dimension, but if you don't, now is the time to flatten it out. Don't go too deep though, as beneath that is the V crease we made at the beginning, and you could create an unwanted hole

Step 5: 1 Step Closer to Stopping Batman, He'll Never Find a Crack in My Detailed Plans...

If you notice, the seems are nice and flat, but may have small cracks in them. You could skip this step if you're fine with how it turned out, its not absolutely necessary, but if you're looking for a solid product that is completely sealed, then I recommend using some style of filler. People have used Mod Podge or a form of Wood Glue. Personally, I liked the spackle on this project, considering it is such tiny cracks, and on a curved casing with electronics inside. The Mod Podge could leak and effect the electronics on accident, considering it's water based. As for the wood glue, sometimes it created bubbles if too much is applied to one area. However, if you are more comfortable with those style, and can clean up any accidents, I say go for it!!!

1: Use Spackle and a straight edge (pull the edge of the box cutter or Exacto knife, and use caution) to fill in the cracks. You'll want to push it in, and then scrap the edge across the crack pulling up any excess Spackle.

2: Let sit for a few hours (I did mine over night)

3: if you feel as though it needs more, do step 1 again, and add more Spackle.

4: Let sit again, but this time, wait til the next day to make sure it is dry and secure.

5: Once finished, stand it up on a pieces of cardboard, and spray Plasti-Dip on it, covering it. You'll want to spray about 6+ inches away from the casing, and in a smooth back and forth motion from left to right, overlapping the casing each time. This will create a consistent coverage. Make sure to get all the casing covered.

6: Let sit for a at least 4-5 hours before handling (again, I usually wait over night, just in case) The Plasti-Dip will have a small thickness to it, and will smoothen out some of edges as well, so if you feel you need a second coat, go for it.

Your casing is now sealed.

Step 6: Who Is the One, Being So Mean??? Robin Seems Envious, I'd Color Him Green...

PAINT TIME!!! I love painting the props. A good paint will depend on what you get. In this case, I started with a Neon green, meant for yard signs and used a Metalic green texturing to make a marbled look. Also keep in mind, so not paint the wires. Cover them up, and slide them back on the inside of the casing using the bottom slits.

1: Stand the casing up on a box of cardboard and spray preferred paint, covering it. You'll want to spray about 6+ inches away from the casing, and in a smooth back and forth motion from left to right, overlapping the casing each time. Do this on both sides

2: Let sit over night

3: Add a second coat if needed, and let sit over night again. (If you are texturing, this step might not be needed, but it can never hurt to add another coat)

4: This step is completely optional, as we are going to texture using a sponge. Spray the paint on palette of some sort (a scrap piece of foam or cardboard you're not using). Take the sponge, and dab a side you want to use for your texture. Now dab painted sponge in a rotating motion onto the casing. just lightly tap it, and cover the parts or all of the casing to your liking. Its easier to do one side and then the other.

5: let sit for 4+ hours

6: Repeat step 4 if you feel like you need more texturing. Also, if you have a matte finish and want a glossy look, try using a clear coat acrylic spray. Keep in mind, if you have a metallic paint as your base, the Acrylic may take that shine away, and make it glossy, so test your basses, textures and clear coats on a spare piece of foam covered in Plasti-dip first, for the correct effect.

Step 7: What Is Finished, and Finally Done??? I've Got You Batman, My Trap Has Been Sprung

Time for assembly.

1: Slide the shaft into the casing, and make a mental note of how deep it goes. (Use tape if you want to use a marking, no sharpie!!!)

2: add hot glue to the sides of the shaft no further than the mental marking.

3: Slide the shaft back in, and hold it casings sides tightly against the shaft. You may have a little hot clue squish out, clean it off if it does, but be careful it could be hot.

4: add hot glue to the inside of the side slits where the wires come out, sealing up the bottom of the casing, making it 1 solid piece. Hold them together until hot glue is solid.

5: Turn it on!!! You now have a fully functional Riddler cane that can light up in your hands.

Step 8: Riddle Me This, Riddle Me That. Even Bruce Wayne Cosplays As the Big Bad Bat...

Get out there, and enjoy it all!!!

I hope you enjoyed this instructable, and will continue to build off of it. I am always at Dragon Con every year, still rockin my Mr Freeze, albiet with plenty of upgrades. My wife will be donning The Riddler cosplay and if you see us and attend DC, we will be in a group with a Bane and Harley Quinn. Stop by and say HI!!!

If you have any questions, please ask away!!! Stay safe and take your time. All cosplays show how much work and dedication through the build. I'm happy to help and assist. Next year for DC there will be a new full cosplay build from scratch, and I plan on going all out. So follow me, and see what we can build.

Thanks,

<p>Good idea. Your working on the stick is amazing.</p>
Nice job. The stick looks amazing!

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Bio: I love building Costumes. I am a huge comic book fan and I have been drawing comic superheroes for years. I cosplay at Dragon Con ... More »
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