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Jun 23, 2011. 8:45 AMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
I'm moving most of my instructables to my creative development blog.
This instructable has moved here:
http://www.threewestcreative.com/3907/righteous-wall-repair-for-newbies/
This instructable has moved here:
http://www.threewestcreative.com/3907/righteous-wall-repair-for-newbies/
You did very good work on the patch, but I second the suggestion for the fast setting lightweight joint compound. Most drywall pros I know love the stuff. IIRC it comes in flavors from 90 min down to 20 min and it hardly shrinks at all. It's a huge help when you want/need to get through a repair quickly since it often means you can put it up, sand it and even paint it in the same day. For a non-pro the key is to pick stuff that won't set in your tray faster than you can put it up. I've worked with it myself and it is far superior (for ease of use and speed) to the standard joint compound that you used. Also for a patch as large as yours you would have saved yourself a lot of trouble by putting in a piece of drywall and then taping and mudding around it. Most big box home improvement stores carry sizes that are less than a full sheet (starting from 2'x2') but even if you did have to go with a full sheet, you could have easily cut it down to a size that would fit in your vehicle for a decent bit less money than the patches you used. A full sheet is usually < $8-9 and it would be easy to cut it into pieces that would fit in most cars.
Jun 28, 2010. 2:34 PMpiperjon
says:
It's rather hard to tell with my poor eyesight, but it looks as though the wall is originally made with plaster directly on the lath. The edges of the damaged area appear (to me) to be too thin to have used drywall. But I had no idea that joint compound comes in different lenth-of-set types, although it makes sense that it should. I'm glad I read this, I have an area of my living room that I will eventually be working on, and I've not even begun to research this. Now I know what I'm looking at, and what I should lok for. Your 'ible and the comments have helped me in a few minutes what would have been an hour or two of research otherwise! Good show! - Pj
Jul 2, 2010. 10:46 AMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Yes, I could have used a piece of drywall if I could have gotten it home. But like I said, the Home Depot where I lived didn't have it in small pieces. They only had the thickness I needed in the large sheet (although they had a thicker drywall in 2'x2' pieces but they were of no use to me. I bought one and tried. It was too thick). So if you can use drywall to patch most of the hole, then do it. This instructable is for someone who may not have access to the drywall or who just would rather do it this way. Like the instructable says, there are other ways to patch a hole. My instructable is just one way. Cheers!
Also, FYI, the patches you used are generally meant to bridge small holes in drywall where you don't have anything behind it. In a plaster lathe wall you'd really only need them in places where the lathe had fallen away (e.g. the far right side of the bigger hole). You could have just applied the joint compound directly to the lathe on the rest of the wall. Lathe is meant to have spaces between the wood so that the plaster or joint compound can be squeezed into it and harden. You'd still do multiple layers but patches weren't necessary.
I realize that a full sheet wouldn't fit in your car that's why I mentioned cutting the sheet into smaller pieces. If I remember correctly each of the square patches you used usually run close to the price of a single sheet of drywall so it would have been much more economical to buy one sheet of drywall, cut it down to size and then put it up on the wall so that you wouldn't need to use the patches or so many layers of joint compound.
Most of the time the plaster in plaster/lathe walls is at least 1/2" thick, but even if it's not drywall comes in 1/4" and 3/8" thick sizes so you will almost always be able to fill in a hole with drywall instead of having to do multiple layers of joint compound.
Jun 30, 2010. 11:43 PMwrksnfx
says:
Just a CAUTION to ALL *****plaster depending on when it was done could have *****(ASBESTOS a class A carcinogen)***** or horse hair in it as a thickening agent so wear a respirator and gloves when doing any plaster repair or removal new plaster by law has (NO ASBESTOS) in it. sorry if I scared anyone but as they say what you don't know could kill you so keep safe and good luck.
Jun 26, 2010. 4:28 PMwrksnfx
says:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQxGpcGGBk0 demonstration video
Here is a link to a tool (* I IN NO WAY WORK FOR THE FOLLOWING COMPANIES *) it's just the least messy way of doing drywall without sanding.
http://www.texmaster.com/magictrowel.html
VIDEOVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
VIDEO ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
http://www.brooklynrowhouse.com/magic_trowel
Here is a link to a tool (* I IN NO WAY WORK FOR THE FOLLOWING COMPANIES *) it's just the least messy way of doing drywall without sanding.
http://www.texmaster.com/magictrowel.html
VIDEOVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
VIDEO ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
http://www.brooklynrowhouse.com/magic_trowel
Jun 25, 2010. 7:52 PMgandlof5
says:
Of course you could have used setting type of compound. This comes as a powder that you have to mix. You can and powder and make it stiffer so you don't need the patches. Also you just wait for it to harden before the next coat. I then use regular premixed for the last coat; it's easier to smoth out & to sand. does look like a very good job.
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