3 Simple Ways to
Share What You Make

With Instructables you can share what you make with the world — and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.

PhotosPhotos

Share one or more photos of a project, recipe, or whatever you've made, quickly and easily.

Step by StepStep-By-Step

Share your step-by-step photos with text instructions of what you made so others can do it too!

VideoVideo

Share your how-to video. You'll need your embed code from a video site such as YouTube.

Riveted Maille from Scratch.

Step 2Making rings

making rings
«
  • P2110152.JPG
  • P2110153.JPG
  • P2110155.JPG
  • P2110156.JPG
  • P2110157.JPG
  • P2110158.JPG
  • P2110159.JPG
  • P2110160.JPG
  • P2110161.JPG
  • P2110165.JPG
  • P2110168.JPG
  • last photo ←
»
Ok, so making rings for riveted maille is almost exactly the same as it is for butted maille. The only 2 differences are that you can use thinner wire, and you need to cut them with an overlap.

In this case I'm using 16ga. tie wire. you can usually find this stuff pretty cheap in most hardware stores. You're looking for the black stuff that leaves black crud on your hands as it is not galvanized and is already annealed.
My mandrel is an old roller from a garage door and is about half way between 3/8" and 1/2" I couldn't tell you exactly what size that it is but the rings look about right for the larger rings that seem to be common with near eastern armour.

Anyways, just wind your coil like you would for any other maille, then cut them with your freshly modded side cutters. You'll want to leave 3/16" to 1/4" of overlap.

Once you've got your rings all cut it's time to normalize them. This step isn't strictly necessary, but I
find it does help a bit. I get about 10% less bunk rings in the flattening stage if I normalize them first.

To normalize them I string them onto a loop of wire, then heat them up red hot and let them cool to room temperature. I'd heard you can do this on a gas stove, but my stove was taking too long. I prefer to use a blowtorch. Alternately I'm sure a BBQ would work wonders, or a fireplace.

Lastly, do not hold the wire with your fingers while you are blow torching the rings, it is a bad idea. Also, do not put the recently red hot rings onto anything flammable while they are cooling, it is also a bad idea.



« Previous StepDownload PDFView All StepsNext Step »
10 comments
Feb 19, 2011. 11:26 AMseabee890 says:
If you can find a bar with a slot in it, or grind one into the bar that you want to use. you can use a dremel tool to cut a bunch of rings faster. I undrstand wanting to do this some- what old-school (can't remember where to put the damn dashes) however, the sheer volume of rings needed to complete any project might turn some people to the amazing art of mail working, good luck i am looking forward to see what readers create. ( and you also)
Mar 16, 2012. 12:52 AMRowen27 says:
I know this goes back a ways but, in an old Stephen Biesty 'Cross-Sections Castle' book I had as a kid, it gave a fairly detailed description of how wedge riveted maille was made, along with diagrams of the tools used (For what was essentially a children's book, it was surprisingly comprehensive). I seem to recall that for labor saving purposes it described cutting the rings in a line the way seabea890 posited, and then performing the added step of passing them through a plate with a vaguely funnel shaped hole (similar to a draw plate) that created the overlap as they were constricted. This may be more trouble than necessary, but I thought it was worth mentioning. Great instructable!
Jul 10, 2011. 12:37 PMPyropitcher says:
This is insanely awesome, but I have a question. When you say "cut them with an overlap", you do this to make sure the flattened rings are wide enough in one area so the rivets can go through, correct? If so, wouldn't cutting them straight down the line, even with an overlap on the end, produce one overlapped ring and a bunch of normal ones? Can you describe how this would work to me please?
Jul 6, 2011. 7:32 PMninja of suburbia says:
Oh just noticed something, fyi-ish, sorry for being a coner, but you are not normalizing the rings here, you are simply annealing, or softening them. I would recommend taking the patches of mail as you finish them, and then heating them and quenching them to harden the rings, and then tempering them. might be too much work for a costume, tho.
Jul 7, 2011. 5:08 PMninja of suburbia says:
no actually, to normalize the rings you would have to align them north-south, so that the crystals in the steel realign north-south, or normalize.
Aug 29, 2010. 1:31 PMspenfisher12 says:
i have an old wood stove evry winter i heat the house with it that might make me able to heat over 500 rings at once
Mar 17, 2010. 10:16 AMjimjamaroo says:
does it matter if you use tie wire instead of galvanized steel wire.

Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

All Steps Viewing
View all steps of an Instructable on the same page when you're a Pro Member.

Upgrade to Pro today!
141
Followers
12
Author:armourkris