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Step 13: Wiring

Picture of Wiring
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In order to make the wiring for the RoboBrrd as tidy as possible, ensure that all of your wires have some extra length. This will allow us to be able to wire in all of the connections outside of the base which will make it much easier.

The wiring for the RGB LEDs has 100 ohm resistors on each colour lead. We use heat shrink to ensure that none of the leads will be touching eachother.

The RGB LEDs will be mounted on the front face below the top coffee stir stick. There should be a little ridge on the LED that will assist with making it stick to the edge of the coffee stir stick. We will want to make sure that these are as perpendicular and straight as possible, as we will be adding the googely eyes to it.

The wiring for the LDRs is similar to the RGB LEDs. There is also a splice near the end of the wire that breaks out the signal wire from the ground. The ground has a 1k ohm pull down resistor on it, which is also heat shrinked to another short piece of wire to extend the reach of the ground.

The LDRs will be mounted on the top corners of the RoboBrrd structure. Gluing them should be trivial as there is enough room, and the heat shrink provides a good service to press into the glue.

The wires from the LEDs and LDRs can be twisted together to save space. They should be routed into the ledges on the side faces in order to not interfere with the beak mechanism or wings. From here, the wires can drop down into the hole and into the base.

For attaching the wires to the proto-screw shield, I typically try to allow the wires that may most often need to come out near the top ‘layer’. In this case, it would be the servos and DC motor. Since they will be going over all of the other wires, we will leave them to last.

To make the wiring look neater, try to make the wires go all in one direction. This will also make it easier to place the shield back into the base. You may have to tilt the shield to have it go back into the base.

Once the shield is back in the base, attach the servo connections, as they may protrude higher than the base. Next, attach the Arduino through the side of the base.

Give everything a test run to make sure that nothing was nicked while moving the shield back into the base. It will also be good to ensure that no wires may tangle the rotational servo.
 
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