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Step 5Building the Lid
When I cut the water tank apart, I also cut off the top, and saved it for use as a lid.
It's already the same diameter as the top of the grill, so it should fit perfect.
It really just needs two modifications, a handle, and a way to let air through.
The Handle:
The length and width of the handle is based on the size of the user's hand, preferably with enough room for an oven mitt.
I found a scrap of Oak firewood, about the right diameter for a handle, and left it long to start with. I could always shorten it later.
Drill two holes in the wood, and push the carriage bolts through.
Use these to mark where they should go through on the lid.
Drill two holes in the lid.
Cut two sections of pipe a little shorter than the length of the carriage bolts. These will be spacers to hold the handle the right distance from the lid. I had some scrap copper pipe around, which is easy to cut and looks very nice.
Slide a washer and then the pipe over the carriage bolts, and then the carriage bolts into the holes in the lid. On the bottom side of the lid, attach washers and nuts, and tighten.
Air Spacers
The lid also needs some way for hot air to constantly exit the grill to continue the chimney effect.
You could make a vent, similar to one a Weber brand grill, or even make some sort of chimney right on the lid, but it seemed much easier just to add some small steel tabs. These tabs space the lid away from the grill to allow air flow.
I cut three steel tabs from scrap metal, and welded them evenly around the lid.
On the inside of the grill, I welded in three matching tabs that line up with the ones on the lid. Three tabs makes the lid not wobble.
By simply rotating the lid a little, it can still sit all the way down on the grill (such as when you are done with the grill and want to smother it, or for storage.)
It's already the same diameter as the top of the grill, so it should fit perfect.
It really just needs two modifications, a handle, and a way to let air through.
The Handle:
The length and width of the handle is based on the size of the user's hand, preferably with enough room for an oven mitt.
I found a scrap of Oak firewood, about the right diameter for a handle, and left it long to start with. I could always shorten it later.
Drill two holes in the wood, and push the carriage bolts through.
Use these to mark where they should go through on the lid.
Drill two holes in the lid.
Cut two sections of pipe a little shorter than the length of the carriage bolts. These will be spacers to hold the handle the right distance from the lid. I had some scrap copper pipe around, which is easy to cut and looks very nice.
Slide a washer and then the pipe over the carriage bolts, and then the carriage bolts into the holes in the lid. On the bottom side of the lid, attach washers and nuts, and tighten.
Air Spacers
The lid also needs some way for hot air to constantly exit the grill to continue the chimney effect.
You could make a vent, similar to one a Weber brand grill, or even make some sort of chimney right on the lid, but it seemed much easier just to add some small steel tabs. These tabs space the lid away from the grill to allow air flow.
I cut three steel tabs from scrap metal, and welded them evenly around the lid.
On the inside of the grill, I welded in three matching tabs that line up with the ones on the lid. Three tabs makes the lid not wobble.
By simply rotating the lid a little, it can still sit all the way down on the grill (such as when you are done with the grill and want to smother it, or for storage.)
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